TYP.NO4
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Race Car
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From: Alabama
TYP.NO4 (stranded after 10 min of driving)
I drove to my favorite road today and pulled on the side of the road to adjust the video cam. I really didn't have to turn the car off but I did anyways to take my time to setup the cam, Guess what, it did not want to start after that. 
. Brhhhhh. The motor turns fine but it don't want to start. Timing belt is fine, got fuel pressure, but no start.
It did give an error message Typ.NO4 and I think 19.55 1988. Anyone know what that is?
Thanks,
. Brhhhhh. The motor turns fine but it don't want to start. Timing belt is fine, got fuel pressure, but no start. It did give an error message Typ.NO4 and I think 19.55 1988. Anyone know what that is?
Thanks,
Last edited by Giovanni; Dec 17, 2007 at 09:27 PM.
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Any clicking noises from the engine with the ignition on? Hope not.
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Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission?
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Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission?
George Layton March 2014928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
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From: Gone. On the Open Road
Power to the digital cluster was interrupted. That 'Type 04' message is essentially the cluster's 'boot' message. If this happens during starting it means that a) something is sucking all the juice out of your battery or b) your battery's been squeezed dry (no juice.)
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From: Alabama
Rog: It always makes loud clicking noises when firing the engine but it does not make any clicking noise with the ignition on.
Dave: I'm hoping its option B. I have not driven the car in 3 weeks and I don't know how old the battery it although it seems to hold good charge.
Dave: I'm hoping its option B. I have not driven the car in 3 weeks and I don't know how old the battery it although it seems to hold good charge.
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From: ɹəpun uʍop 'ʎəupʎs
Turned out to be the Ignition relay in my car (position IV in an '89,.. ah nm, I see from your sig you have the same MY as me) - process of elimination swapping out relays one at a time for a known-good and its been fine since.
Before you assume the error and non-start are related, check the relays and fuses
The relays WallyP's posts said to check are:
Ignition relay - position IV
Fuel Pump Relay - position XX
LH Relay - position XXV
They're all the 253-type (same as horn etc.) - so can be swapped with a known-good one from the horn position (assuming your horn works
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Race Car
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From: Alabama
I had a problem with starting after running a couple of weeks ago - I could hop in, drive to the store, and then come out to find the car wouldn't start. Was consistent, and also self-correcting after about 10 mins.
Turned out to be the Ignition relay in my car (position IV in an '89,.. ah nm, I see from your sig you have the same MY as me) - process of elimination swapping out relays one at a time for a known-good and its been fine since.
Before you assume the error and non-start are related, check the relays and fuses
The relays WallyP's posts said to check are:
Ignition relay - position IV
Fuel Pump Relay - position XX
LH Relay - position XXV
They're all the 253-type (same as horn etc.) - so can be swapped with a known-good one from the horn position (assuming your horn works
Turned out to be the Ignition relay in my car (position IV in an '89,.. ah nm, I see from your sig you have the same MY as me) - process of elimination swapping out relays one at a time for a known-good and its been fine since.
Before you assume the error and non-start are related, check the relays and fuses
The relays WallyP's posts said to check are:
Ignition relay - position IV
Fuel Pump Relay - position XX
LH Relay - position XXV
They're all the 253-type (same as horn etc.) - so can be swapped with a known-good one from the horn position (assuming your horn works
Thank you,
I am hoping that is the problem. If it starts tomorrow morning that would be a pretty good indication
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I charged the battery overnight and it started right up this morning. Since the Sharktuning the RPM would drop and go back up when the engine is cold (for the first 2-3 minutes) but it didn't do that this morning after I cleaning the battery connectors. My car is an attention wh.re.
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From: Evanston, IL, USA
I had a problem with starting after running a couple of weeks ago - I could hop in, drive to the store, and then come out to find the car wouldn't start. Was consistent, and also self-correcting after about 10 mins.
Turned out to be the Ignition relay in my car (position IV in an '89,.. ah nm, I see from your sig you have the same MY as me) - process of elimination swapping out relays one at a time for a known-good and its been fine since.
Before you assume the error and non-start are related, check the relays and fuses
The relays WallyP's posts said to check are:
Ignition relay - position IV
Fuel Pump Relay - position XX
LH Relay - position XXV
They're all the 253-type (same as horn etc.) - so can be swapped with a known-good one from the horn position (assuming your horn works
Turned out to be the Ignition relay in my car (position IV in an '89,.. ah nm, I see from your sig you have the same MY as me) - process of elimination swapping out relays one at a time for a known-good and its been fine since.
Before you assume the error and non-start are related, check the relays and fuses
The relays WallyP's posts said to check are:
Ignition relay - position IV
Fuel Pump Relay - position XX
LH Relay - position XXV
They're all the 253-type (same as horn etc.) - so can be swapped with a known-good one from the horn position (assuming your horn works
Might want to check the starter relay too - same relay as these. I just had my starter relay go, and it had similar symptoms, although I don't have the digital dash so none of that nonsense.
Based on your last post Gio, doesn't sound like that's the problem.
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From: Alabama
So it did it again. I tried to crank is a few times and on the third attemp the battery was dead. I didn't have a flashlight to switch the relays so I had my wife pick me up (3min from my house :-)). The battery is charging and I will go back at the gas station in an hour to see if it starts. Before stopping at the gas station I floored it a bit, some tire spin and then it start sputtering. Any ideas besides the relays? Could it be a bad battery?
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Could indeed be just a tired battery. After it's charged, let it set an hour. Before you put it back in the car, check the density of the electrolyte with an inexpensive tester. Cheap ones (<$5) work fine, and come from parts places or the battery rack at most Wal-Mart stores. Little glass or plastic eye-dropper thingy with plastic ***** in it. If the green ***** don't float for every cell, plan on a new battery before you continue.
If the battery shows OK, install it after cleaning the terminals with a battery brush or even sandpaper until they are shiny and bright. Cable terminals too, of course. Start the car, and check the voltage at the battery terminals with the engine running. Should be 13.5 minimum, showing that the alternator is charging the battery. A weak battery will trash an alternator in not that long, unfortunately, as the alternator tries in vain to get the battery terminal voltage up. Just one weak or shorted cell in the battery is the difference between starting and chargiung correctly, or overheating the alternator.
Good news is that it's a simple fix, no matter whether you need just the battery, or maybe a battery and an alternator.
If the battery shows OK, install it after cleaning the terminals with a battery brush or even sandpaper until they are shiny and bright. Cable terminals too, of course. Start the car, and check the voltage at the battery terminals with the engine running. Should be 13.5 minimum, showing that the alternator is charging the battery. A weak battery will trash an alternator in not that long, unfortunately, as the alternator tries in vain to get the battery terminal voltage up. Just one weak or shorted cell in the battery is the difference between starting and chargiung correctly, or overheating the alternator.
Good news is that it's a simple fix, no matter whether you need just the battery, or maybe a battery and an alternator.
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Race Car
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From: Alabama
I took the battery to autozone and the test was okay but it had a weak charge. I let it charge overnight and checked it 4 days later, only 1 cell held fair charge, all others were poor. So I am getting a new battery tomorrow.
Should I open the relays and clean them up? VW sells identical relays for $5.95 and I am planning on replacing relay IV, XX and XXV with the VW relay. Is that a good idea?
http://www.evwparts.com/Merchant2/me...ype4Electrical
Should I open the relays and clean them up? VW sells identical relays for $5.95 and I am planning on replacing relay IV, XX and XXV with the VW relay. Is that a good idea?
http://www.evwparts.com/Merchant2/me...ype4Electrical
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From: Philly PA
Hey Gio , Disconnect the battery before doing any of these suggestions.
It might be a good idea to pull every fuse out and replace them with a new set of good ones. Also get a fuse chart from www.928gt.com and check to make sure that all of the relays are the correct part number for your car while the relays are out look for corrosion on the pins if you find any then open the relay up and check the contacts inside, also if you find corroded fuses then its a sure bet your blower box is leaking water onto the CE panel and the blower box must be removed to reseal it with some 3M black strip caulk. Also make sure you have cleaned the hot post connection and the 14 pin connector with a pink eraser, and check that you have the hot post cover to prevent water from getting into this connection.
If with your new battery you only get 13.3 volts charge or less then its a safe bet that the alternator might have fried a diode, still enought to show a partial charge but not enough to keep the battery fully charged, and over time the new battery will stop working.
It might be a good idea to pull every fuse out and replace them with a new set of good ones. Also get a fuse chart from www.928gt.com and check to make sure that all of the relays are the correct part number for your car while the relays are out look for corrosion on the pins if you find any then open the relay up and check the contacts inside, also if you find corroded fuses then its a sure bet your blower box is leaking water onto the CE panel and the blower box must be removed to reseal it with some 3M black strip caulk. Also make sure you have cleaned the hot post connection and the 14 pin connector with a pink eraser, and check that you have the hot post cover to prevent water from getting into this connection.
If with your new battery you only get 13.3 volts charge or less then its a safe bet that the alternator might have fried a diode, still enought to show a partial charge but not enough to keep the battery fully charged, and over time the new battery will stop working.