Fiberglass bumpers and fenders? Good / Bad?
#1
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Someone recently backed right into my left rear fender and left a nasty mark in it. I actually had to pull the fender back out so it would not rub on the wheel. It happened of all places right in front of our church. <img src="graemlins/cussing.gif" border="0" alt="[grrrrrrr]" />
My front and rear bumpers are not in the greatest shape either, so I have been looking around for a good source to get GTS reaer quarters and a new front and rear bumper.
I have just talked to IFC Infinite FiberWorks Co. and got a quote for the two rear quarters, the front and the rear bumper for $1155.00.
<a href="http://www.allporsche.com/S4.html" target="_blank">IFC web site</a>
Has anyone used their parts? The price sounds really fair.
And, how difficult would it be to mount the rear quarters? I guess the original wheel well would have to be cut a bit and the new ones glued on.
I guess that would be the perfect time to completely repaint the shark.
Any suggestions would be great.
Thanks,
Sab.
My front and rear bumpers are not in the greatest shape either, so I have been looking around for a good source to get GTS reaer quarters and a new front and rear bumper.
I have just talked to IFC Infinite FiberWorks Co. and got a quote for the two rear quarters, the front and the rear bumper for $1155.00.
<a href="http://www.allporsche.com/S4.html" target="_blank">IFC web site</a>
Has anyone used their parts? The price sounds really fair.
And, how difficult would it be to mount the rear quarters? I guess the original wheel well would have to be cut a bit and the new ones glued on.
I guess that would be the perfect time to completely repaint the shark.
Any suggestions would be great.
Thanks,
Sab.
#2
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The factory bumpers are designed to withstand smaller impacts, while I believe the fiberglass material is too hard to do that. It will likely crack a lot more easily.
In regards to the GTS flares - I think DEVEK has some metal ones available now. I'd be worried that the fiberglass and sheet metal react differently to heat, cold, or impacts, and that cracks would form over time. The all metal solution sounds superior to me.
Maybe that's the time for you to have the whole car repainted? At that age, "piecework" will usually show. Oh, and if you do the rear fender flares, you have to come up with a solution for your side moldings - either GTS style, or remove them all. Otherwise the whole thing will look unfinished.
In regards to the GTS flares - I think DEVEK has some metal ones available now. I'd be worried that the fiberglass and sheet metal react differently to heat, cold, or impacts, and that cracks would form over time. The all metal solution sounds superior to me.
Maybe that's the time for you to have the whole car repainted? At that age, "piecework" will usually show. Oh, and if you do the rear fender flares, you have to come up with a solution for your side moldings - either GTS style, or remove them all. Otherwise the whole thing will look unfinished.
#3
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Thanks Nicole,
good point about the moldings, I hope someone sells the small pieces for the GTS fenders. Since removing all trim is probably quite a piece of work. Besides here in Miami it is almost impossible to park anywhere without getting door dinged by some careless driver. And the moldings really help.
I kind of like the idea about the harder fiberglass bumpers since my plastic bumpers are deformed from the heat.
Has anyone bought their product (IFC)?
regards,
Sab. <img src="graemlins/drink.gif" border="0" alt="[cherrsagai]" />
good point about the moldings, I hope someone sells the small pieces for the GTS fenders. Since removing all trim is probably quite a piece of work. Besides here in Miami it is almost impossible to park anywhere without getting door dinged by some careless driver. And the moldings really help.
I kind of like the idea about the harder fiberglass bumpers since my plastic bumpers are deformed from the heat.
Has anyone bought their product (IFC)?
regards,
Sab. <img src="graemlins/drink.gif" border="0" alt="[cherrsagai]" />
#4
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Sab,
My left quarter replacement for the Weissach- 82' - was $1300.00 by itself. It was factory and brand new.
The rear interior quarter pieces have to come out and the glass, trim, and seals as well... a little daunting but not undoable. Unsure about hatch, though?
Don't forget the light assy's, & bumper covers.
I am assuming there is a bit of spot welding to chisel/grind/cut off and then spot welding to achieve proper alignment and body heigth.
In my case they thoughtfully cut out the VIN/paint code plate and it now resides in the glove box. Window seals were the original and still look good and keep out the wet stuff.
As Nicole suggested; a repaint would be better as you will have to blend the Quarter with the door and roof... This requires door handle perhaps mirror window seal removal and don't forget to leave all that stuff off until she's buffed up.
HTH
John S. & Pattycakes
<img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" /> <img src="graemlins/bigok.gif" border="0" alt="[thumbsup]" />
P.S.
The paint ain't cheap either!
My left quarter replacement for the Weissach- 82' - was $1300.00 by itself. It was factory and brand new.
The rear interior quarter pieces have to come out and the glass, trim, and seals as well... a little daunting but not undoable. Unsure about hatch, though?
Don't forget the light assy's, & bumper covers.
I am assuming there is a bit of spot welding to chisel/grind/cut off and then spot welding to achieve proper alignment and body heigth.
In my case they thoughtfully cut out the VIN/paint code plate and it now resides in the glove box. Window seals were the original and still look good and keep out the wet stuff.
As Nicole suggested; a repaint would be better as you will have to blend the Quarter with the door and roof... This requires door handle perhaps mirror window seal removal and don't forget to leave all that stuff off until she's buffed up.
HTH
John S. & Pattycakes
<img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" /> <img src="graemlins/bigok.gif" border="0" alt="[thumbsup]" />
P.S.
The paint ain't cheap either!
![EEK!](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/eek.gif)
#5
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Sab, one other thing...
The insurance covered my damage - over $3000.00-.
It was under the uninsured motorist clause...didn't even know I had it, my wife pointed it out and we were off to the races
The insurance covered my damage - over $3000.00-.
It was under the uninsured motorist clause...didn't even know I had it, my wife pointed it out and we were off to the races
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Hi John,
thanks for your advice. Did your uninsured motorist insurance cover the cost even though the bastard who did it took off or was he kind enough to wait around and tell you he had no insurance?
regards,
Sab. <img src="graemlins/yltype.gif" border="0" alt="[typing]" />
thanks for your advice. Did your uninsured motorist insurance cover the cost even though the bastard who did it took off or was he kind enough to wait around and tell you he had no insurance?
regards,
Sab. <img src="graemlins/yltype.gif" border="0" alt="[typing]" />
#7
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Sab,
Ah, the beauty of it all.
When I called the police to make a report 2 days after it happened they said just come down and pick up a "blue Form". This happens so often now, that they don't even send a crusier out to investigate.
You fill out the form, a single one sided page deal. Obviously you can fudge the dates a little -I didn't -, didn't bother the Insurance Company that it was several days after the fact.
Anyhow call the police and see what type of form(s) they have, then call the Insurer and - you might want to be a bit vague - tell them your sHARk was just wounded. Ask them about the procedure for a claim inspection. Hit two or three GOOD Auto Body shops for estimates. The shop that did mine was great but they padded the completion date time, not for profit just for hedging against problems or other shop work.
Your insurance company usually uses the same database software as the Upper level body shops and the estimate is pretty close - $100. to $300.-.
Alas, figure on your monthly Insurance tab on rising about $10-$20. a month.
HTH
JOHN S.
<img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />
PS Unsure about Right rear quarters but they had 3 brand new left quarters in Atlanta
Ah, the beauty of it all.
When I called the police to make a report 2 days after it happened they said just come down and pick up a "blue Form". This happens so often now, that they don't even send a crusier out to investigate.
You fill out the form, a single one sided page deal. Obviously you can fudge the dates a little -I didn't -, didn't bother the Insurance Company that it was several days after the fact.
Anyhow call the police and see what type of form(s) they have, then call the Insurer and - you might want to be a bit vague - tell them your sHARk was just wounded. Ask them about the procedure for a claim inspection. Hit two or three GOOD Auto Body shops for estimates. The shop that did mine was great but they padded the completion date time, not for profit just for hedging against problems or other shop work.
Your insurance company usually uses the same database software as the Upper level body shops and the estimate is pretty close - $100. to $300.-.
Alas, figure on your monthly Insurance tab on rising about $10-$20. a month.
HTH
JOHN S.
<img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />
PS Unsure about Right rear quarters but they had 3 brand new left quarters in Atlanta