Crank #2 & 6 oiling problem???
04-30-2009, 09:26 AM
#31
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05-01-2009, 02:07 PM
#32
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Hacker-Pschorr, I allready saw that topic and it does not answer my questions, but thank you for posting.
Maybe someone has Devek Racing Accusump kit and can share what it consists of and how it is plumbed?
Maybe someone has Devek Racing Accusump kit and can share what it consists of and how it is plumbed?
05-01-2009, 02:30 PM
#33
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05-01-2009, 03:02 PM
#34
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Sorry, no.
When I fist got the car I used Valvoline 10W60 VR1 Racing semi-synthetic oil.
Spun #2 at track. My car is 88 944S with stock engine.
Rebuilt the engine with oversize bearings and after 8000 km (daily driving and track days) blew #2 again. That day I just got new Toyo R888 tires. Before that I used street tires. Oil level was at max mark before and after the failure.
Oil was Valvoline 5W50 Racing VR1 full synthetic. I wanted to change it to something thicker next event. I just came out from two left corners that look like U and lost power. I looked at oil pressure and the reading was 3 bar. When I took my foot off the gas oil pressure dropped more and I heard knocking. The track I use most has mainly left hand turns.
I did not know the 10 psi for 1000 rpm rule before so I did not look the oil pressure values so carefully. I think the pressure was like 4bar or little more when hot and at wot.
I am bad driver and bouncing off the rev limiter alot ( no LSD also).
Now I rebuilt the engine again. New used crank with first oversize bearings, Linsay baffle and ring collar for oil pickup, crankscrapers windage tray, perp drilled #2 and #3.
I have 3 quart Moroso oil accumulator and BAT oil filter relocation kit that I need to install.
I will add Setrab oil cooler and gaugages for oil pressure and temperature.
I use the car on track days when I run usually 5 lap sessions.
When I fist got the car I used Valvoline 10W60 VR1 Racing semi-synthetic oil.
Spun #2 at track. My car is 88 944S with stock engine.
Rebuilt the engine with oversize bearings and after 8000 km (daily driving and track days) blew #2 again. That day I just got new Toyo R888 tires. Before that I used street tires. Oil level was at max mark before and after the failure.
Oil was Valvoline 5W50 Racing VR1 full synthetic. I wanted to change it to something thicker next event. I just came out from two left corners that look like U and lost power. I looked at oil pressure and the reading was 3 bar. When I took my foot off the gas oil pressure dropped more and I heard knocking. The track I use most has mainly left hand turns.
I did not know the 10 psi for 1000 rpm rule before so I did not look the oil pressure values so carefully. I think the pressure was like 4bar or little more when hot and at wot.
I am bad driver and bouncing off the rev limiter alot ( no LSD also).
Now I rebuilt the engine again. New used crank with first oversize bearings, Linsay baffle and ring collar for oil pickup, crankscrapers windage tray, perp drilled #2 and #3.
I have 3 quart Moroso oil accumulator and BAT oil filter relocation kit that I need to install.
I will add Setrab oil cooler and gaugages for oil pressure and temperature.
I use the car on track days when I run usually 5 lap sessions.
05-01-2009, 04:47 PM
#35
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The comment was a little bit on the joking side. we have seen poor oil pressure at the track with mobil 1 and the valvoline racing oil (i think something like 15-50)
the amsoil or redline solve that problem. going to 60weight might help, but could cause other problems. I dont know.
I never see less than 5 bar at the track with amsoil, and in the worst conditions, 260F oil temp, high g loading turns, 4.5 bar. With other oils, I have seen the oil pressure warning light come on!
Mk
the amsoil or redline solve that problem. going to 60weight might help, but could cause other problems. I dont know.
I never see less than 5 bar at the track with amsoil, and in the worst conditions, 260F oil temp, high g loading turns, 4.5 bar. With other oils, I have seen the oil pressure warning light come on!
Mk
Sorry, no.
When I fist got the car I used Valvoline 10W60 VR1 Racing semi-synthetic oil.
Spun #2 at track. My car is 88 944S with stock engine.
Rebuilt the engine with oversize bearings and after 8000 km (daily driving and track days) blew #2 again. That day I just got new Toyo R888 tires. Before that I used street tires. Oil level was at max mark before and after the failure.
Oil was Valvoline 5W50 Racing VR1 full synthetic. I wanted to change it to something thicker next event. I just came out from two left corners that look like U and lost power. I looked at oil pressure and the reading was 3 bar. When I took my foot off the gas oil pressure dropped more and I heard knocking. The track I use most has mainly left hand turns.
I did not know the 10 psi for 1000 rpm rule before so I did not look the oil pressure values so carefully. I think the pressure was like 4bar or little more when hot and at wot.
I am bad driver and bouncing off the rev limiter alot ( no LSD also).
Now I rebuilt the engine again. New used crank with first oversize bearings, Linsay baffle and ring collar for oil pickup, crankscrapers windage tray, perp drilled #2 and #3.
I have 3 quart Moroso oil accumulator and BAT oil filter relocation kit that I need to install.
I will add Setrab oil cooler and gaugages for oil pressure and temperature.
I use the car on track days when I run usually 5 lap sessions.
When I fist got the car I used Valvoline 10W60 VR1 Racing semi-synthetic oil.
Spun #2 at track. My car is 88 944S with stock engine.
Rebuilt the engine with oversize bearings and after 8000 km (daily driving and track days) blew #2 again. That day I just got new Toyo R888 tires. Before that I used street tires. Oil level was at max mark before and after the failure.
Oil was Valvoline 5W50 Racing VR1 full synthetic. I wanted to change it to something thicker next event. I just came out from two left corners that look like U and lost power. I looked at oil pressure and the reading was 3 bar. When I took my foot off the gas oil pressure dropped more and I heard knocking. The track I use most has mainly left hand turns.
I did not know the 10 psi for 1000 rpm rule before so I did not look the oil pressure values so carefully. I think the pressure was like 4bar or little more when hot and at wot.
I am bad driver and bouncing off the rev limiter alot ( no LSD also).
Now I rebuilt the engine again. New used crank with first oversize bearings, Linsay baffle and ring collar for oil pickup, crankscrapers windage tray, perp drilled #2 and #3.
I have 3 quart Moroso oil accumulator and BAT oil filter relocation kit that I need to install.
I will add Setrab oil cooler and gaugages for oil pressure and temperature.
I use the car on track days when I run usually 5 lap sessions.
05-01-2009, 04:59 PM
#36
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I plan to use MOTUL 300V Le Mans 20W-60.
HTHS viscosity at 150°C (302°F) ASTM D4741 7.17 mPa.s
http://www.rallysport.ca/lubricants/...258%20(GB).pdf
What is Amsoil HTHS value?
HTHS viscosity at 150°C (302°F) ASTM D4741 7.17 mPa.s
http://www.rallysport.ca/lubricants/...258%20(GB).pdf
What is Amsoil HTHS value?
05-01-2009, 05:04 PM
#37
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joonas,
Why don't you post your question in the thread about accusumps or in the 944 forum?
Sorry to say there is no magic oil, switching to Amsoil or Redline will NOT solve the rod bearing issue.
Why don't you post your question in the thread about accusumps or in the 944 forum?
Sorry to say there is no magic oil, switching to Amsoil or Redline will NOT solve the rod bearing issue.
05-01-2009, 05:10 PM
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05-01-2009, 05:25 PM
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You maybe right, but I certainly saw low oil pressure with the other oils, vs what we use now. Our record with the redlines and Amsoils is pretty flawless right now, with more hard core track days than most anyone here.
Luck? I dont know. do you believe in the tooth fairy?
accusump is not the end all catch all issue either. I think after all the 100s fo pages of discussion on the issue, drilling the crank is the only logical method to solving the problem. (and using good oil that can stand up to high temps and not lose as much viscosity)
Why I have had no rod bearing failures, (nor Scot) in the last 10 years of month to month, never missing a race weekend, is still somewhat of a mystery.
(knock knock )
mk
Luck? I dont know. do you believe in the tooth fairy?
accusump is not the end all catch all issue either. I think after all the 100s fo pages of discussion on the issue, drilling the crank is the only logical method to solving the problem. (and using good oil that can stand up to high temps and not lose as much viscosity)
Why I have had no rod bearing failures, (nor Scot) in the last 10 years of month to month, never missing a race weekend, is still somewhat of a mystery.
(knock knock
) mk
05-05-2009, 09:01 AM
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