Another way to save time on the clutch Hydraulics
#46
Team Owner
Thread Starter
ahh the inlet port to the MC?
#49
you nailed it, it cheesy plastic, and i was way off on the angle, it's more like a 120deg angle.
and yes, my booster is 9" too. i cannot IMAGINE getting the damn MC out if it was any bigger.
i'm so close.. just need to get this piece, and start wrestling with the master to get er back in, think i'll loosen the booster up and see if it helps, getting it out was nothing more than me twisting/turning/swearing, don't want to do that with a brand new master and flex line.
and yes, my booster is 9" too. i cannot IMAGINE getting the damn MC out if it was any bigger.
i'm so close.. just need to get this piece, and start wrestling with the master to get er back in, think i'll loosen the booster up and see if it helps, getting it out was nothing more than me twisting/turning/swearing, don't want to do that with a brand new master and flex line.
#50
Finally got to work on the car again, thanks to all for the tips/help. after about 2 hours of wrestling with the new master, and quite a bit of swearing, i finally decided to remove the booster, brake master, etc. It then took me about 10 minutes to install the damned thing, and the new PKlutch. Hats off to you guys who did this without removing the booster. i don't know how the h*ll you did it.. it was almost midnight when i got everything back together, so i figured why not stay out there and fill it up, and see how things looked. Filled it with fluid, and hooked up my new/in the box motive 0100, and the thing won't build any pressure.. This was it, i left off there and went inside and unsuccessfully tried to scrub off the brake fluid all over my hands and arms.. Maybe i'll try again tonight. anyone experience this issue with a brnad new motive? i didn't use teflon tape on the joint between the line and adaptor, maybe this will fix it, i thought i'd build something at least since i cranked it pretty good..
Work done:
New master
New slave
new flex line
new PKlutch
cleaned out reservior
cleaned out brake master/booster (best i could)
To do:
flush/bleed entire brake/clutch system
find oil leak that is allowing oil to run down both headers while the front has been up on jackstands for a month (WTF..)
Work done:
New master
New slave
new flex line
new PKlutch
cleaned out reservior
cleaned out brake master/booster (best i could)
To do:
flush/bleed entire brake/clutch system
find oil leak that is allowing oil to run down both headers while the front has been up on jackstands for a month (WTF..)
#51
once the system was filled i crawled in and went to pump the clutch just to see what i had before bleeding, and it falls to the floor, is this normal? i thought i'd have at least "some" pressure from the fluid..
#52
Rennlist Member
^^^ you have air in the lines. You will have better results with a reverse bleed from the slave up (air likes to rise).
The motive bleed is good when you are replacing fluid in a sealed (bleed) system. Once air in introduced, it's not the best choice.
If you don't have a reverse bleeder, you can run a hose from the right/front brake caliper bleed screw, to the slave (then crack bleed screws and use your motive).
PS. Make sure your clutch master pushrod has proper free-play base on WSM.
The motive bleed is good when you are replacing fluid in a sealed (bleed) system. Once air in introduced, it's not the best choice.
If you don't have a reverse bleeder, you can run a hose from the right/front brake caliper bleed screw, to the slave (then crack bleed screws and use your motive).
PS. Make sure your clutch master pushrod has proper free-play base on WSM.
#55
Three Wheelin'
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I've had it- the brake booster is coming off, and if that does not work the engine is coming out as well. This is idiotic.I even tried to get a one piece flexible to go from MC down to the frame (or further) to make this mildly impossible. Stan, I do not know how you do it, but now I cannot even get the MC in place w/o the line attached. And thanks again, Stan.
#56
Rennlist Member
I guess I never posted it here, but this is my take on the job a it applies to a '78. Maybe some of it will be of use to those working with later cars.
#57
Three Wheelin'
If I recall, when I replaced my MC and blue hose, I fed two strings through the holes in the footwell and then attached them to the corresponding holes in the MC. I attached the blue hose to the MC and then pulled the MC to the holes with the strings. When lined up, I got the bolt started in one side and then cut the string on the other and started it. Was able to get the MC secured with a new blue hose attached and proceeded from there. I have a garage lift which helped, but it is still a PITA even with a lift.
#58
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Thanks Doug & Jim. I read Sharkskin's write-up which is very useful, and I tried using small diameter plastic hose through a bolt hole. I do not know, but suspect there was a change between our MYs, or maybe it's just me. This is the first project that has me stumped in over 10 years of ownership; I simply cannot get the MC in place- did it once w/o the line attached but nowhere close with the line and now I cannot get it there even w/o the line.
#59
Archive Gatekeeper
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This was my solution for my '90 GT, and even then it was a PITA to get the bolts started:
#60
Three Wheelin'
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^
That's what I'm thinking, that or paying to fly Stan and his team of miniature German wrench turners down from Granola-ville to do it for me.
Did you have a procedure for removing the brake booster?
Clean & tidy bay, by the way.
That's what I'm thinking, that or paying to fly Stan and his team of miniature German wrench turners down from Granola-ville to do it for me.
Did you have a procedure for removing the brake booster?
Clean & tidy bay, by the way.