Another way to save time on the clutch Hydraulics
#31
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The other question, i was thinking of once this all together and installed, of trying to fill the system from the slave bleeder using a boat style lower unit hand pump. this way it fills from the bottom, and pushes the fluid and air up through the reservoir. This make sense, or am i missing something??
I found the method inadequate when I bled the GTS clutch system and ended up reverse bleeding using the slave pushrod, pumping it ~20 times.....bon chance.
#32
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Stan, Dave et al:
got it all out today. I had to remove the nuts from the booster completely, push it outboard and really manhandle the MC before it came loose. The leak was in the bottom flex line, but I will rebuild the MC now.
FWIW, I tried to pressurize from below (in the parking lot of 3rd Coast last year- what are the odds of someone having a spare blue hose & slave in the car- Hermann does!!) when I lost my slave cylinder; it did not work. Pumping the slave rod did.
got it all out today. I had to remove the nuts from the booster completely, push it outboard and really manhandle the MC before it came loose. The leak was in the bottom flex line, but I will rebuild the MC now.
FWIW, I tried to pressurize from below (in the parking lot of 3rd Coast last year- what are the odds of someone having a spare blue hose & slave in the car- Hermann does!!) when I lost my slave cylinder; it did not work. Pumping the slave rod did.
#33
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when you go to refit the MC get a long bolt,
and thread it into the MC once its close to being in its proper position.
Then you can pull the MC into position and install the other bolt,
also make sure the blue hose is routed so its a continual rise to the reservoir, turn the inlet fitting of the MC to make this happen.
on your new flex hose put a piece of heat resistant shielding,
found at autozone in the performance section
and thread it into the MC once its close to being in its proper position.
Then you can pull the MC into position and install the other bolt,
also make sure the blue hose is routed so its a continual rise to the reservoir, turn the inlet fitting of the MC to make this happen.
on your new flex hose put a piece of heat resistant shielding,
found at autozone in the performance section
#34
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When you bleed the hydraulic system, do you bottom out the slave piston (clutch engaged position) and keep it bottomed out with something heavy (like bolting it to a wall lol) while bleeding the system? Mitchell doesn't say anything about having to do that.
#35
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after an hour of swearing and wiggling, i finally got my MC out of the 78 this morning without losening the booster, not sure how in the world i'll get the new one in at this point.
Dave, (or anyone..) how in the world can you get any leverage/movement on the wrench on the flex/hardline bracket on the motor??? i can barely get a wrench on there, but no way in h*ll is there any room to break it free, i'm completely stuck on the last bolt in the system, and it's killing me... TIA.
Dave, (or anyone..) how in the world can you get any leverage/movement on the wrench on the flex/hardline bracket on the motor??? i can barely get a wrench on there, but no way in h*ll is there any room to break it free, i'm completely stuck on the last bolt in the system, and it's killing me... TIA.
#36
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kawiMATT please post a picture
#37
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Not a good pic at all.. but this is driver side, behind motor, under airbox, the loop from the engine hoist pick point is visible. the bolt is a few inches below it. i can see the bolt from underneath, but can't access it from there either. i really don't know how any of you guys have gotten this thing off. I can BARELY slide my hand behind the motor with a 13mm wrench in my fingertips, but not a chance of actually doing anyhting with it..
i have the master and slave off, and this damned thing is the only thing keeping me from driving this car a couple more times before the white crap starts to fall.. Thank you much for the reply
i have the master and slave off, and this damned thing is the only thing keeping me from driving this car a couple more times before the white crap starts to fall.. Thank you much for the reply
#38
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i did notice Sharkskin's pic had the airbox off, but i don't know if this would make much difference. BTW, how does the airbox come off on the OB's other than the 2 bolts on the ends of it? i took mine out awhile back, and something is still holding it on tightly
#39
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airbox removal would be a asset,
to remove it look on the top of the spider body their is a 13mm bolt with a locknut,
remove this bolt and the aircleaner lower section will come free .
The bolt is a long part about 7 inches long, it presses the front portion of the aircleaner body onto the intake opening.
with the aircleaner removed you should be able to get to the bolt
to remove it look on the top of the spider body their is a 13mm bolt with a locknut,
remove this bolt and the aircleaner lower section will come free .
The bolt is a long part about 7 inches long, it presses the front portion of the aircleaner body onto the intake opening.
with the aircleaner removed you should be able to get to the bolt
#40
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Don't forget to remove the air hose to the air pump on the bottom passenger side of the lower air box
#41
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WOW!! Did anyone notice Dave made a post? (Sharkskin).(and on an old thread resurrection no less)..have not seen any from him since I have been on.....He is like my hero (Ok, one of many here)..lol...I found his pages before I bought my 78, and his write ups brought me here!!!
+928. Dave's one of the treasures of this community.
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#42
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#43
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Thanks a bunch guys. Airbox did the trick, shame on me for not trying it sooner. I think my patience wore too thin, should've taken a break and went back out. Now the only thing holding me back is the 45 fitting for the blue hose. I thought I read somewhere these came with the new masters but I guess I was wrong. Have a note to Roger. Hopefully I can get one quick. Thanks again.
#44
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what is a 45 fitting for the blue hose?