Fuse
12-20-2001, 04:48 PM
#2
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12-20-2001, 05:38 PM
#3
928 Engine Re-Re-Rebuild Specialist
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What is a symptom of that fuse being burned out? My dimmer switch doesn't have settings other than "on" and "off"....no variations of brightness in between. Actually, I'd prefer it if all of my instrument lights were a little brighter: on my climate control, I can only see the white and red numbers...the blue numbers (lower temperatures) are blacked out. Is this normal?
12-20-2001, 05:57 PM
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Dave(s):
Be careful, guys...IMHO the most likely cause for this is the dimmer control rheostat thing. Big Dave, it should pan smoothly through the illumination settings. (BTW, the blue temp area should illuminate, but they may not be related)
Other Dave, if you're question is because you're blowing the fuse, I'd check the same.
I've heard tales about dash fires from the corroded rheostats, and I can confirm from my personal experience that while the interval wiper control remains pristine, the dimmer control will corrode and flub - better yet, in its corroded state it gets very hot while the lights are on.
Easy R&R. Clean that puppy. Good luck.
Be careful, guys...IMHO the most likely cause for this is the dimmer control rheostat thing. Big Dave, it should pan smoothly through the illumination settings. (BTW, the blue temp area should illuminate, but they may not be related)
Other Dave, if you're question is because you're blowing the fuse, I'd check the same.
I've heard tales about dash fires from the corroded rheostats, and I can confirm from my personal experience that while the interval wiper control remains pristine, the dimmer control will corrode and flub - better yet, in its corroded state it gets very hot while the lights are on.
Easy R&R. Clean that puppy. Good luck.
12-20-2001, 06:45 PM
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What's the best way to clean the various electrical components in the dash? I read on Nichol's tip site that a plastic safe contact spray cleaner was used for the dimmer wheel without disassembling the dash. Is this good for all electrical connectors?? And what about the crud this spray will loosen? How do you trap it all when that dash space is very tight? Anyone have detailed advice? I just lost my dash lights too, moving the wheel down.
12-21-2001, 11:15 AM
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All I can offer as far as cleaning goes...
my dimmer was so corroded that no spray was going to do it. I pulled the dash and decided to clean everything...
...did the dimmer with a very fine, very small wire brush from a hobby store. I didn't see any copper plating that this would hurt, and it works fine now. As I recall, the contact area should be reachable by brush without pulling the pod, provided you are reasonably limber.
...cleaned the printed circuit board with a pencil eraser (tip courtesy of Rennlisters)
...used spray contact cleaner on the remaining dash contacts and connection pieces. Be careful not to let the cleaner hit the plastic instrument lense, "plastic safe" or not. Towel-covered everything around and under the contact in question before spraying.
The dash space is tight, which is why I opted to pull the pod. As 928 part removals go, this is an easy one. Once the plastic covers and wheel are off, it's two 10mm bolts, two allen bolts and a little patient manipulation.
IMO, it's worth doing to both clean and check the connection integrity of all pod components. It cured a bunch of annoying faults in my pod.
Nichol's site has pod removal advice.
Good luck.
my dimmer was so corroded that no spray was going to do it. I pulled the dash and decided to clean everything...
...did the dimmer with a very fine, very small wire brush from a hobby store. I didn't see any copper plating that this would hurt, and it works fine now. As I recall, the contact area should be reachable by brush without pulling the pod, provided you are reasonably limber.
...cleaned the printed circuit board with a pencil eraser (tip courtesy of Rennlisters)
...used spray contact cleaner on the remaining dash contacts and connection pieces. Be careful not to let the cleaner hit the plastic instrument lense, "plastic safe" or not. Towel-covered everything around and under the contact in question before spraying.
The dash space is tight, which is why I opted to pull the pod. As 928 part removals go, this is an easy one. Once the plastic covers and wheel are off, it's two 10mm bolts, two allen bolts and a little patient manipulation.
IMO, it's worth doing to both clean and check the connection integrity of all pod components. It cured a bunch of annoying faults in my pod.
Nichol's site has pod removal advice.
Good luck.
12-21-2001, 12:19 PM
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As far as contact cleaners go; DeoxIT is very good! I for one have used it and think it's great! Here is the link http://www.caig.com/ You may want to call them up to find a distributer.
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12-22-2001, 12:17 AM
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Turned out not to be the fuse. I pulled the dimmer switch cover (a couple of screws) then pulled off the dimmer switch (one screw, a little tricky to get to, but not to bad). I then disconneted the two wires to the switch. I sprayed them , along with the switch, with a cleaner (I used a brake parts cleaner, the only cleaner I had handy). the switch now works like new. (87)
Dave
Dave