Does anyone know if there is a bleeder kit for the master brake cylinder? I have a guy helping me install a master brake cylinder next week and he suggested that I spring for the kit. He said that it makes it easier to do the job. I have not been able to find anything of this sort. Thanks in advance. <img src="confused.gif" border="0">

 

Chucker,

If I'm reading your question right, here's an answer.

I just bought the mityvac kit on the internet which has the brake accessories and some other connectors. I think it's called the 4000 (silver) model. ($49) It eleimates the 2-man pump-and-hold the brake pedal method. The mityvac kit is especially a good thing to have for chasing vacuum leaks.

I think I saw a similar kit at sears. Any decent auto parts store should have it as well.

What brake fluid are you going to put in?

Greg

 

I used my neighbor's brake bleeder kit on my 850R a few months ago. It uses the spare tire or other 20 psi source to pressurize a quart sized bottle that you fill with brake fluid to push fluid into the master cylinder and brake system. As far as I'm concerned it's the only way to flush and bleed a system. I've used the vaccum pump kinds before with mixed results. They work, but nowhere near as easy. Using the ATE Blue brake fluid made it even easier.

He bought it at <a href="http://www.ipdusa.com" target="_blank">www.ipdusa.com</a> and the kit comes with a bunch of caps, but I can't swear that it fits the 928.

 

Nathan,

If using a spare tire or compressed air, is there any concern about moisture/debris/oil being in the pressurized air and contaminating the fluid?

If not, I can regulate my air compresor down and use a trigger-duster as the source. Hook it to the plastic line where the hand pump would go.

I am wondering about contamination though.

Greg

 

Personally I just dropped the pressure in my spare to 20psi and hooked it up. I didn't notice anything other than air coming out of my spare so to be honest...I didn't even think about it.

Since I don't have a compressor that wasn't really an option. I would assume that your compressor tank would settle out any junk in the system. Volume wise, you are only going to use a quart of pressurized air to displace the quart of brake fluid. I can't imagine that would cause a problem.

 

928 Specialists sells a cute little mini pressure bleeder that makes short work of the task. Approx $35 IIRC. Looks like a very small bug/garden sprayer, with a master cylinder cap where the bugs are supposed to sit. Fill with new fluid, a few pumps, and you have a low-pressure bleeder that's perfect for home use.

As far as the contamination from the air source-- the time of exposure is minimal, and the comparison is just a factor of the moisture absorbtion rate of the brake fluid at atmospheric pressure vs having maybe twice that pressure on it. With the pressure bleeder the whole job takes minutes rather than an hour or so. Plus, you only need to open the brake fluid can once. The DR unit has a pressure gauge too... fancier than the one I made!


I home-brewed a pressure bleeder a couple years ago based on guidance from some listers. Total cost was about $25 all in, plus an hour of shopping and the mods to a spare MC reservoir cap. Had the commercial product been available at the time, I would have gone that way in an instant.

 

I've used both the MityVac and the pressure bleeder that dr bob mentioned above. In my opinion the pressure bleeder is definitely the way to go.

 

I have had a MityVac for years and anyone that works on cars need one for bleeding brakes,checking out air motors, and yes, in the old days, checking out vacuum advances.

 

Greg, when I filled the reservoir the first time I went with the DOT 3 as the reservoir cap suggested. I was then told to go to DOT 5 for perfection. When I went to buy the DOT 5 the guy at the counter asked if I intended to.. "remove everything and clean it". I said "everything?" and he said yea. He stated that he had a customer who tried to add DOT 5 to a system that had 3 or 4 in it and it was turning to gell. So he said to go ahead with the DOT 4 which is compatable with DOT 3 and when I am ready to pull everything apart (the calipers) then go to DOT 5. So I am using DOT 4. And I think on Monday I will order the pressure bleeder. <img src="graemlins/a_smil17.gif" border="0" alt="[blabla]" />

1982 928 manual
white 73,000 miles

 

Do NOT use DOT 5 silicone brake fluid.

DOT 5.5 synthetic is fine.

 

Thank you WallyP. Can 5.5 be mixed with 3 or 4? Or would I have to clean the entire system as the guy behind the counter said? <img src="graemlins/yltype.gif" border="0" alt="[typing]" />

1982 928 white

 

Chucker,

I would not go to DOT5 ever. NO silicone fluid!! Many people will recomend ATE Super Blue (or gold). It is a DOT4 fluid. Here is a description from my favorite 928 supplier-

"ATE Super Blue Racing brake fluid, best brake fluid for the street all the way up to extreme demands of racing conditions. Dry boiling point of 536°F; wet boiling point of 392°F. Suitable for all brake and clutch systems rated for DOT brake fluids. Comes in 1 liter metal container. Comes in Blue and Gold colors to aid you in flushing your brake system."

The different colors is a great idea. When bleeding through new fluid, use blue. When blue is bleeding out of all calipers, your old fluid has been flushed.

2 years from now when you flush your fluid again as recomended, use the gold just like the blue.

FYI, if you don't know, bleed the longest line first and work your way to the shortest line.
RR, LR, RF, LF.

HTH,

Greg

 

Thanks Greg. I am going to put in the Car Quest DOT 4 for now and when I see that everything is working I will put in the ATE. The master brake cylinder that I bought was also ATE. Same company? BTW is was $111.95 from Import Parts Specialists. Not too bad. <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />

 

Yup, same company. Parent is Continental Teves.

Greg

 

I second the vote for the Motive PowerBleeder. I just used it last month for the first time and it worked great. You add some fluid to the PowerBleeder, screw the cap on the master cylinder, pump it up a few times and you're good to go. Its a simple one man job. When you do the calipers, you just loosen the bleed screw a little, and you can watch the old fluid come out, and if you changed color, you will see a beautiful stream of fluid of the new color. Repeat 7 times, and viola.