'91 928 Battery Spec
02-02-2003, 07:16 AM
#16
Nicole,
I, too, was concerned about the ability of the Alternator/regulator being capeable of handling the larger battery...Interstate technician told me after alt, all power on check, and cross pole check that there was nothing wrong with the 'original' battery or my charging system.
He said I did need to go thru my electrics if I had a drain as I described it to him.
That was the beginning of my Great Rogue Electron Hunt...I'm still hunting 1 1/2 years later. The 'original' battery was installed in a neighbors Electric kiddie Jeep and still spins the plastic wheels - goes like hell - constant trickle charge over the year and a half.
Which is why I'm changing out my Power leads and grounds this weekend.
Other news: The Army trains its people to "remove the ground cable LAST and INSTALL it first".
The Hot Post (+) will arc if you ground it with a wrench or what have you wether or not you have the ground lead still attached. If the angle is bad for your wrench/socket during the removal or installation lay a dry washcloth or other non- conductive matierial between wrench and battery box. There should be a rubber trim insulation there now that prevents the cover from rattling, vapor/water entry into the car proper, and also prevents arcing should you touch it with a wrench.
Unless Jerry's battery box is smaller than mine -
unlikely but possible - the Interstate, MTP 93 DOES FIT with a little room to spare. Trust me! I have one and it's been in and out several times.
The longest lasting critter out there so I've read is that Batt. that has gel cells -I think Panasonic makes them - they put them in Miata's and have lasted 10-12 years, you'd have to do some research to see if they meet our application.
HTH
John S. & Pattycakes
P.S. The Battery, drain, alt, charge test only takes a few minutes and is free at Interstate Battery Distributors... at least here in Texas.
Swap is free, too.
I, too, was concerned about the ability of the Alternator/regulator being capeable of handling the larger battery...Interstate technician told me after alt, all power on check, and cross pole check that there was nothing wrong with the 'original' battery or my charging system.
He said I did need to go thru my electrics if I had a drain as I described it to him.
That was the beginning of my Great Rogue Electron Hunt...I'm still hunting 1 1/2 years later. The 'original' battery was installed in a neighbors Electric kiddie Jeep and still spins the plastic wheels - goes like hell - constant trickle charge over the year and a half.
Which is why I'm changing out my Power leads and grounds this weekend.
Other news: The Army trains its people to "remove the ground cable LAST and INSTALL it first".
The Hot Post (+) will arc if you ground it with a wrench or what have you wether or not you have the ground lead still attached. If the angle is bad for your wrench/socket during the removal or installation lay a dry washcloth or other non- conductive matierial between wrench and battery box. There should be a rubber trim insulation there now that prevents the cover from rattling, vapor/water entry into the car proper, and also prevents arcing should you touch it with a wrench.
Unless Jerry's battery box is smaller than mine -
unlikely but possible - the Interstate, MTP 93 DOES FIT with a little room to spare. Trust me! I have one and it's been in and out several times.
The longest lasting critter out there so I've read is that Batt. that has gel cells -I think Panasonic makes them - they put them in Miata's and have lasted 10-12 years, you'd have to do some research to see if they meet our application.
HTH
John S. & Pattycakes
P.S. The Battery, drain, alt, charge test only takes a few minutes and is free at Interstate Battery Distributors... at least here in Texas.
Swap is free, too.
02-02-2003, 07:30 AM
#17
Cottage Industry Sponsor
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Thread Starter
My interest is going towards the new style Optima battery - even though I really need to find out first, if it is really a battery problem I'm experiencing. I'll try to get it checked some time next week...
The interstate website recommends MTP-93 for AC equiped 928s up to '86, and MTP-91 for non-AC 928s up to '86 and all other 928s from '88 onwards. For '87 they have a different type, but this might be a typo. I would think that both John and Jerry have the right batteries for their cars.
The interstate website recommends MTP-93 for AC equiped 928s up to '86, and MTP-91 for non-AC 928s up to '86 and all other 928s from '88 onwards. For '87 they have a different type, but this might be a typo. I would think that both John and Jerry have the right batteries for their cars.
02-02-2003, 10:34 AM
#18
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Endwell, New York
Posts: 620
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
John - I'm a little surprised that the Army says "remove the ground cable LAST and INSTALL it first". That is really dangerous for the operator. For safety sake the (-) terminal should always be disconnected first and reconnected last. Reason being is that once the (-) terminal is disconnected and the loose terminal shielded there is no way to create an arcing situation with the (+) terminal since there is open circuit to the battery. Always be very careful around batteries they hold amazing amounts of energy and try to stay in a well ventilated area when servicing to minimize igniting any hydrogen outgassing.
02-02-2003, 11:59 AM
#19
Paul,
I know where you are coming from.
It is, after all, a negative ground system.
Only thing I could think of is that they got it *** backwards on power spikes arcing if you accidently grounded.
In any case that was what they were teaching the support MOS's as well 88M - Truck Drivers and I think it was the small engine guy's 55 or 54 Mos series (a 60kw generator is small?)
Right or wrong the emphasis was on NOT GROUNDING so I guess that covered them.
Related Army training. Everyone who has ever come in contact with me where bullet launchers are involved knows that I firmly believe every firearm is loaded, or, has a round chambered with the safety off until I personally inspect it and safe it.
For awhile there during the last Gulf Massacre I was camped out near a no-name wadi, with a squadron of Delta, a nomadic SEAL TEAM or two, and the occasional clump of the 22 SAS. We had a Battalion of Rangers on perimeter guard - the Delta perimeter that is - . So there I was... some of the best shooters on the planet and we were having AD's - accidental discharges- about every other day. This doesn't count the Airfoce pukes, flying out of their box, with AWACS yelling at them to cease and desist, dumping Harm missiles on us ( kiss that TACAN goodbye).
In any case they bring an ARMORER with 13 years experience in and the first thing he does is show us all how to have an AD with the M-60's. This school trained idiot for some reason did not know that the M-60 fires from the open bolt position. Class was halted by our hoots and wrong answer buzzers well before he could corrupt the
young-uns beyond repair and certainly before he could kill anyone with his M-134 mini-gun demo.
Sadly, he wasn't the only stupid one out there training people. A Marine 1st Lt. blew his brains out in front of his rifle platoon demonstrating the 'REMAKABLE' partial-****, trigger block on the 9mm Beretta.
Bad for him, good for the Marines. That kind of training makes an impression on you for a long time. Then there was a class with the AT-4, Carl Gustav at the 101st airbone's second Lager.
The missle was fired 'accidentally' in a tent, several burn victims, in each tent down the line and one dead from a glancing head blow. Had the warhead gone off - the tents slowed it down to where the propellant ran out before the fuse armed -
Get the picture... you can learn to do things right...no matter how poorly you are trained, assuming you live that is! I got a million of em'
Again, I see what your saying and because of the negative ground rule agree with you 100%.
I do promote above all the 11th commandment:
Thou shalt not ground.
Hey, Rocket scientist that I am I just went outside and tried to ground a free standing, freshly charged MTP-93 from 1st the neg pole then the + pole, no arc either way???????
Purposely disobeyed 11th commandment.
Nicole, let us no about your batt. choice.
John.S.
I know where you are coming from.
It is, after all, a negative ground system.
Only thing I could think of is that they got it *** backwards on power spikes arcing if you accidently grounded.
In any case that was what they were teaching the support MOS's as well 88M - Truck Drivers and I think it was the small engine guy's 55 or 54 Mos series (a 60kw generator is small?)
Right or wrong the emphasis was on NOT GROUNDING so I guess that covered them.
Related Army training. Everyone who has ever come in contact with me where bullet launchers are involved knows that I firmly believe every firearm is loaded, or, has a round chambered with the safety off until I personally inspect it and safe it.
For awhile there during the last Gulf Massacre I was camped out near a no-name wadi, with a squadron of Delta, a nomadic SEAL TEAM or two, and the occasional clump of the 22 SAS. We had a Battalion of Rangers on perimeter guard - the Delta perimeter that is - . So there I was... some of the best shooters on the planet and we were having AD's - accidental discharges- about every other day. This doesn't count the Airfoce pukes, flying out of their box, with AWACS yelling at them to cease and desist, dumping Harm missiles on us ( kiss that TACAN goodbye).
In any case they bring an ARMORER with 13 years experience in and the first thing he does is show us all how to have an AD with the M-60's. This school trained idiot for some reason did not know that the M-60 fires from the open bolt position. Class was halted by our hoots and wrong answer buzzers well before he could corrupt the
young-uns beyond repair and certainly before he could kill anyone with his M-134 mini-gun demo.
Sadly, he wasn't the only stupid one out there training people. A Marine 1st Lt. blew his brains out in front of his rifle platoon demonstrating the 'REMAKABLE' partial-****, trigger block on the 9mm Beretta.
Bad for him, good for the Marines. That kind of training makes an impression on you for a long time. Then there was a class with the AT-4, Carl Gustav at the 101st airbone's second Lager.
The missle was fired 'accidentally' in a tent, several burn victims, in each tent down the line and one dead from a glancing head blow. Had the warhead gone off - the tents slowed it down to where the propellant ran out before the fuse armed -
Get the picture... you can learn to do things right...no matter how poorly you are trained, assuming you live that is! I got a million of em'
Again, I see what your saying and because of the negative ground rule agree with you 100%.
I do promote above all the 11th commandment:
Thou shalt not ground.
Hey, Rocket scientist that I am I just went outside and tried to ground a free standing, freshly charged MTP-93 from 1st the neg pole then the + pole, no arc either way???????
Purposely disobeyed 11th commandment.
Nicole, let us no about your batt. choice.
John.S.
02-02-2003, 04:03 PM
#20
Chronic Tool Dropper
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Nicole--
Optima batteries are in stock at my local SoCal Costco stores. They look to be standard 24/74 size, so if you are serious about using one you need to check to make sure they will physically fit in the battery well.
Others have posted in that past that they have tried a non-48 battery, and had problems with the positive terminal grounding to the battery box cover. Same as 'battery is too tall' where I come from.
A battery that's already charged with acid can not be shipped by most comon methods. You get to fill out all the hazardous material manifests, pay extra $$, and with the weight of batteries it's just not normally worth the aggravation. UPS has a section on their website about hazardous stuff, along with their rates.
If you use a non-Optima battery, you need to make sure that the battery you use has the vent hose connection, and that you attach the hose. Another poster points to a white powder residue around the battery well. This is the acid fumes from the battery landing on a metal surface and corroding it. I think later cars have a plastic battery box so they don't share the 911 fate of batteries falling through the floorboards. Even so, the tube carries away the potentially (sorry...) explosive gases that are the result of normal charging.
Make sure you install the positive terminal shiedl do you can avoid the 'Sparky' nickname. 'Boom-Boom' and 'Blindy' are common nicknames for folks who have dropped wrenches onto batteries. ;-)
Checking the battery is simple with a voltmeter and little bubble tool that verifies the specific gravity of the electrolyte. Voltmemter also checks to make sure that you are getting charging voltage from the alternator too.
My '89 arrived with a NAPA battery that was still under warranty when it gave up the ghost. Car was sitting for four months while I was on tour overseas, and the battery, at four years old, wasn't up to the task anymore. So NAPA prorated me into a new one for about $90. Works fine.
Interstate is a recommended brand, and there was a mention a few months ago that Chief/whatever they are today sells a house brand that is identical in appearance to the Interstate. There aren't a whole lot of companies that are basic builders of car batteries, so it's quite possible that they are in fact the same battery.
Good luck!
Optima batteries are in stock at my local SoCal Costco stores. They look to be standard 24/74 size, so if you are serious about using one you need to check to make sure they will physically fit in the battery well.
Others have posted in that past that they have tried a non-48 battery, and had problems with the positive terminal grounding to the battery box cover. Same as 'battery is too tall' where I come from.
A battery that's already charged with acid can not be shipped by most comon methods. You get to fill out all the hazardous material manifests, pay extra $$, and with the weight of batteries it's just not normally worth the aggravation. UPS has a section on their website about hazardous stuff, along with their rates.
If you use a non-Optima battery, you need to make sure that the battery you use has the vent hose connection, and that you attach the hose. Another poster points to a white powder residue around the battery well. This is the acid fumes from the battery landing on a metal surface and corroding it. I think later cars have a plastic battery box so they don't share the 911 fate of batteries falling through the floorboards. Even so, the tube carries away the potentially (sorry...) explosive gases that are the result of normal charging.
Make sure you install the positive terminal shiedl do you can avoid the 'Sparky' nickname. 'Boom-Boom' and 'Blindy' are common nicknames for folks who have dropped wrenches onto batteries. ;-)
Checking the battery is simple with a voltmeter and little bubble tool that verifies the specific gravity of the electrolyte. Voltmemter also checks to make sure that you are getting charging voltage from the alternator too.
My '89 arrived with a NAPA battery that was still under warranty when it gave up the ghost. Car was sitting for four months while I was on tour overseas, and the battery, at four years old, wasn't up to the task anymore. So NAPA prorated me into a new one for about $90. Works fine.
Interstate is a recommended brand, and there was a mention a few months ago that Chief/whatever they are today sells a house brand that is identical in appearance to the Interstate. There aren't a whole lot of companies that are basic builders of car batteries, so it's quite possible that they are in fact the same battery.
Good luck!
02-02-2003, 04:16 PM
#21
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Southern New England
Posts: 1,975
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Batteries can be stored on the floor / concrete / the ground, with no problem of damaging them / killing them / extraordinary discharging.
<a href="http://cartalk.cars.com/Columns/Archive/1996/April/14.html" target="_blank">http://cartalk.cars.com/Columns/Archive/1996/April/14.html</a>
<a href="http://uuhome.de/william.darden/carfaq14.htm" target="_blank">http://uuhome.de/william.darden/carfaq14.htm</a>
<a href="http://www.batteriesplus.com/techctn.html" target="_blank">http://www.batteriesplus.com/techctn.html</a>
You should *absolutely* remove the ground cable first & replace last. It is very easy & dangerous to accidentally ground the [+] terminal to the body of the car with your wrench.
<a href="http://cartalk.cars.com/Columns/Archive/1996/April/14.html" target="_blank">http://cartalk.cars.com/Columns/Archive/1996/April/14.html</a>
<a href="http://uuhome.de/william.darden/carfaq14.htm" target="_blank">http://uuhome.de/william.darden/carfaq14.htm</a>
<a href="http://www.batteriesplus.com/techctn.html" target="_blank">http://www.batteriesplus.com/techctn.html</a>
You should *absolutely* remove the ground cable first & replace last. It is very easy & dangerous to accidentally ground the [+] terminal to the body of the car with your wrench.
