Dozman

Andy,

I know we chatted a few times off line. Resend me your email. Have a few questions and suggestions.

John D

Drewster67

You guys need to look at this site -

<a href="http://www.turbofast.com.au/welcome.html" target="_blank">http://www.turbofast.com.au/welcome.html</a>

Interesting spread along with reasonable pricing.

Knowledge is like drugs - addicting.

GoRideSno

4MIDLIF,
Thanks, I'll check out the glass hoods.

Drewster,
Thanks, I think it looks pretty cool too. It kinda makes me want a see through hood like the Lambo or Ferrari has.

RichPhlipp,
My mounts are sagging a bit, not that much though. I jacked the engine up recently and it did not rise much. I have accounted for that. I will have to figure out some sort of alternative placement for that.

Dozman,
I send the address over.

<img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />
Andy

GoRideSno

Rich,
I meant I'll have to figure out some sort of alternative placement for the crossmember.
Andy K

rjtw

Hi Andy,

Any update on how the project is coming along? Will you have to make a new pulley to reduce boost? How's the darn thing drive??

Waiting with baited breath... !

PS I've been in contact with both FAST and the projekt928 folks about their kits. They both have (or are close to having) kits for my year car 1983, and both sound pretty appealing. Huntley Racing is also doing some development for the 928 with a roots-type rather than centrifugal blower, but doesn't have any info on their web site. Does anyone have experiences or more information on either kit (for any model year)... or know about any other kits out there that I've missed?

Thanks
Rick

GoRideSno

Rick,
I haven't worked on it in the last week or so because I was out of town. I did turn the blower off of the crank power steering pulley though. I actually made vaccum with that setup. I got a little boost at 3500 or so. This tells me that the bigger pulley I was using is probably the correct size, as my rough calculations had shown. I believe I am also measuring boost in the wrong place. I should be measuring it in the manifold v/s just aft blower. I'll have a better report this weekend hopefully.
The Huntely Racing kit for older cars should be in production by now from what Derrek has told us.
Andy K
<img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />

Dozman

I was thinking of a new way that might work, except I am not sure if the gear head can be manufactured to this idea of mine. Hope someone will have some input here if it can and a ball park figure to manufacture it.

I figured the only way to get away with the same intake without any major retrofitting and high cost and fitting the whole system under the stock hood is to use a gear drive unit having a 90 degree.

Eaton's distributor might even be able to manufacturer this. If they can ask for tightest dimensions. This was gonna be my first step, the next one is I have all the dimensional sheets printed off of the website for the SC. Then I was gonna take the plans to a machine shop. To see what they can come up with. The problems I foresee is the amount of rpms the head will turn at the pulley. This is where I would like to talk to a machine shop to see what tool steel I would need to be used to withstand the speed and such so I don't have to use lubrication on them. I would then take the gears to an old shop I used to work at to have them shot peened to fatigue strength enhance them. Then take them to get heat treated.

Any other ideas on this?

John D

rjtw

Thanks for the update Andy. I agree, manifold is the right place to measure ;-) (though the blowoff valve should kick in and prevent too high a pressure buildup behind the throttle).

BTW have you invested in an A/F meter or a rising-rate fuel pressure regulator? I was looking at one of the Big 3 last week and was surprised how cheap this stuff is... RRPR $175, A/F meter that uses stock O2 sensor only $99, and $30 fuel presure guage. Would be pretty cool to mount the fuel pressure guage alongside the A/F meter inside (though that brings up issues about how to send the fuel pressure inside the cabin!)

Take it easy
Rick

GoRideSno

John,
It sounds like you want to place the eaton where the centrifugal blowers are usually placed, in front of the engine. I don't know anything about the process you are talking about but have you thought of using a universal joint? You may also search the web for flexible drives. There may be something in the manufracturing or aircraft industries that is usable. I had thought of using a large flexible drive to turn it, like the cable that turns a spedo. There arent any strong enough.
HTH
Andy K

GoRideSno

Rick,
I have the ARM1 A/F meter. I got mine from Split Second only because 928 Spec. was out at the time. 928 Spec has the best price on those. I want to place it next to the boost gauge. If I don't have enough fuel according to the ARM1 I will go for the FPR, a boost sensative one.
Andy K.
Headed to the garage. <img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[burnout]" />

Dozman

Andy you are correct. My thinking was trying to use gears for the wear issue. I wouldn't or someone else wouldn't have to worry about a cable snapping or u joint letting go.

Hope this helps someone else that is looking to SC their shark.

John D

chris928

This topic has been breached before. I mentioned that you need to look at the serious amount of power the SC needs to turn. It's a lot. I'm not sure if a flexible drive would handle it. and for how long? Universal joints have serious inefficiencies that most people aren't aware of which is proportional to the angle they are used. They should be considered only as a last resort. It might take 40 HP from the crank to get 25 to the blower. Overall you may still win, but why go through the hassle when there are already solutions available?

Maybe the supercharger pulley could rub on the tire like the old bicycle generators.....

GoRideSno

I think I will put a crank on it and pedal it like a bicycle.
<img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />

Dozman

Afternoon Chris,

I am not sure if you understand what I am trying to convey. Yes, the topic was breached before about using flex cables and u-joints... before. I have concured with your concerns within the last few posts on this topic.

That is why I suggested having the drive head manufactured at a 90 degree instead of a straight mount on the SC body. This might allow the mounting of the SC completely under the stock hood.

Now if you can give some insight on the manufacturing of the 90 degree drive head instead of the topic that has been breached previously, that WOULD be greatly appreciated.

John D

GoRideSno

I just went out and drove the car. I put the big crank pulley back on and moved the reciever for the boost/vac gauge to the brake vaccum line near manifold. I think I actually have a working system now. There is one obviously very big problem now. The roots being before the throttle is EXTREMELY loud. It is so loud the I think I angered the neighbors. This is normally not a concern because they are traditionally mounted after the throttle.
I think it will be pretty easy to make the highest point out of the hood 3"
Andy K