dr bob

There was a note someplace about having to do that when you use one of the aftermarket motor mounts. Get it before it eats through the steel steering pipe...

Bertrand Daoust

Yes I have read something too about that but can't remember where.
And I will not drive my car until I will have the time to check that.

wds928

Yep, it's the longer bolt. Been there, done that, etc, etc. I used a Dremel tool with a cut-off bit to take about 3/8'ths of an inch from the bolt. Mine was touching and loosened the PS banjo bolt head and I had a puddle of PS fluid on the floor.

Good luck.

ROG100

Interesting that this is happening on some cars and not others. I just checked an 87 with the same after market MM's and the stud head is nowhere near the PS pipe. The stud is uncut.
Also looked at my GTS with the older Anchor Mounts and again nowhere near the PS pipe.
The original bottom stud is 26mm long and the aftermarket is 30mm - the difference being 4 mm.
For info the original top stud is 27mm and the after market is 30mm - only 3mm difference.

If this is going to be an issue on more than a couple of cars I will reduce the stud length.

Some people use washers to increase the after market MM height to bring it closer to the original height. Personally I have never done this or recomended it. If you use a 1mm or 2mm spacer (washer) that would reduce the stud length also.

Interested to hear of any other cases.

Mrmerlin

yep this should be done on all of the aftermarket mounts the lower stud will hit the steering rack i have done 5 of them and all would have hit the rack, this is something that should be in the MM RR procedures, and i was using 2mm washers on top of the mounts and if you forget to do this you will find out when the rack wont fully seat into its home without massive tightening of the bolts. I am not sure if the MM stud being too long is the vgibration problem thet your noticing, I hope it is though

Bill Ball

Tomorrow I will check the MMs I just installed in a 90S4.

Mrmerlin

Bill pay carful attention to where the stud comes out from the crossmember I have found that cutting the stud off flush with the new self locking nut works well and leaves plenty of room between the top of the rack/lines and the stud

ROG100

Stan,
Very interesting - as you know I have done more of these than I care to remember and never had a problem. Checked the cars I have here at the moment and no issue at all.
The difference in length of the stud is only 4mm - about 5/16".
Which MM's are you using??? Anchor maybe?
Very interested to know.

OK I just remembered that I had some of the Anchor Solids in the shop and measured the stud and it is 34mm - that's an 8mm delta.
Maybe its the Anchors that are the problem because the stud is to long.
Roger

Bill Ball

Yes, Rog, these don't look like your mounts. I'm sure the car I just did is fine.

ROG100

Bill,
This has me concerned and I just measured the clearnance between the end of the lower stud and any part of the rack and its 6mm approx. I used a piece of dowel so this is an approx measurement.
Is there enough movement between the rack and the mount to bring about interferance?
There are no marks or gouges on the rack that I can feel.

I will probably start cutting down the studs to be safe in the future. Just need to eastablish a dimension that will allow as much clearance as possible but also cater for those who still feel the need to apply spacer washers. While still having enough thread for the nut & washer.

Bertrand Daoust

Bill.
The one shown in the picture is one from Rodger. I bought them about 1 1/2 month ago with an OPG and a fuel line kit. Very good service by the way. Thanks Rodger.

As soon as my friend and I can find some time (I use his lift and tools to do the job, Thanks François) I'll get there and grind that bolt. Like I said earlier the vibration is stronger in the steering. That's why I suspect greatly this might be the problem. Hope so cause I can't see what we could have damaged during the job.

Thank you all for your help.

ROG100

Hi Bertrand,
Yes I knew they were supplied by 928sRus.
Sorry you are having a problem and in a strange way hope it is the stud because that would be an easy fix.
I am really trying to understand why the problem is happening on some cars and not others.
This has me baffled.
When you can find the time could you check the clearnace between the stud and the rack please?
Thanks,
Roger

Bertrand Daoust

Roger.

Do you need the clearance between the stud and the rack itself or the stud and the rack small pipe.
I can tell you right now that there is no gap between the stud and the small pipe.
Sorry but got to go to work (fu... night shift).

Mrmerlin

Is there a chance that the steering rack is a different one IE different MFGs supplied the racks the rack in my car was a rebuilt unit and it had a date stamp of 91 on it, it was hitting the lines that came out of the rack and i did use the rock Auto mounts, I did cut off both of the studs flush with the new self locking nuts that i used after fitting because the rack was definitly hitting the stud and the rack wouldnt seat into the crossmember. Stan

ROG100

Stan,
That's possible - going to do some more checking.
Roger