FBIII

My car was an 84. I took a test light and determined which contact was hot when the key was turned and jumped it to the appropriate contact that ran the fuel pump, I don't have any recollection of the numbered posts. I removed to posts from the relay and soldered them to a short piece of wire.

Lizard928

i would like to expand on what Alan has said as well

jumpering 87 and 30 WILL leave the pump on 24/7, I dont care what you say, IT WILL

if you jumper 87 and 15 as Alan says it will be on with the key, however touching on this more,
The 15 curcuit going to this relay is designed to switch a relay, which takes a VERY small amount of amps to leave the relay switched. Due to this the wire is small.
If you run the fuel pump off the 15 curcuit for any real period of time you WILL melt that wire, and possibly cause a fire. For those of you who have done it, I recommend that you inspect that wire asap, and I bet you will find the outside of that wire abit different than the other wires.

Mike Frye

rhys,

I think what I'm getting from all this is that if you need to get your car running right now and don't want to have issues, make a jumper with a switch in it from Radio Shack using heavy enough wire (18awg?) and then the circuit will be hot (and fused) but you can kill it with the switch. (87 and 30 I think, from what I'm reading from the very knowledgable Alan et al)

I think there must be a write-up somewhere on this because Adam G. has a setup like this in his toolkit as a means of testing and he said he found the write-up here.

Also, if you still want to come up and have us take a look at your HVAC blower and hard-starting issues, let me know. I was going to contact you this weekend anyway, I think Adam and I have next Saturday open or possibly the following weekend. Let us know.

rhys

This seems to be the best information. If I do the 87 and 30 jump, it needs to be switched; if I do the 87 and 15 jump, I need to wear Nomex

dr bob

Many moons ago, I made a temp relay solution using a double-output Bosch relay, and cut off a tang from the relay to get it to plug in. It's been a long time so I don't remember all the specifics. We ended up with all the connections lined up correctly except the 31b connection, which is the pulse-to-ground input that tells the relay the engine is spinning. The common relay has no place for that input, and just closed whenever the 15 bus was energized (ignition key in 'start' or 'run' position). I'd be looking at this kind of solution as a possible TEMPORARY STOPGAP solution until the correct relay arrives. It beats the unprotected 15 feeding the relay, or the switch from 30 with the chance it will be left on accidentally. The switch is a pretty good theft deterrent.

Lizard928

That correctly sums it up yes.

AO

I carry a jumper with an in-line switch in my car for this exact reason. I can jump 87 & 30 but I can still control if it's on or not.

Alan

This is a potentially dangerous way to proceed unless you have more knowledge e.g. this bypasses the fuse and drives the pump with a wire that was never designed for this current...

not good on anyones car...

If a wire on the back of the fuse panel melts it can be enormously damaging taking many others with it (difficult to repair) as well as being a major fire hazard...

Know what you are doing...

You can make this much easier - buy 2 male 1/4" quick disconnect blade connectors (half insulated crimp types are best) to make your connections - use 12AWG wire and if you install a switch - make sure its rated for 15A-20A min so this jumper can be used on all relays for future "test" purposes...

Better yet - add an inline ATC fuse holder to the jumper so you can fuse the circuit as needed (30A default) in case of connection 'accidents'.

BTW - plug into the 87 connection first - its safer that way...

Alan