Has anyone had problems with the window lift switch? Mine is having a contact problem when pushing it in the "window up" position. I know its not the motor since jiggling it gets the contact and then it works. Is it likely fried or is there any hope in just removing it and cleaning it with alcohol? If the latter, how do you remove it?

 

Using the 'search' function for the term 'window switch' (no quotes) will result in numerous helpful archived discussions on this topic.

 

Thanks Randy, will do! By the way, are there any SD events for Porsche 928s or is that just a Northern CA and east-coast phenomenon? I'm a SD newbie. <img src="graemlins/xyxwave.gif" border="0" alt="[bigbye]" />

 

Sure thing Dave.

BTW - I had replied to your email message to me - not sure if you received it.

Yes, there have been several SD 928 get-togethers - up to 15 cars at each event.

Brian Henderson was the primary catalyst in bringing us together in the past. He usually posts here when an event is planned.

 

The switches are not very robust. I've taken a couple of them apart. The square metal piece pushes down on a u shaped metal tang that triggers the window motor. The metal tang can get deformed and hence not move enough to trigger the switch. On my switches I also noticed that the switch would actually move in the cosole as I pressed it. The switches are expensive so I take them apart and fix them.

Tib

 

My driver's window switch is going south for the second time in less than a year. The problem is that the spot in the central panel where the window switch is installed doesn't have much of the mounting surface it once did. As a result, when the switch is pressed, it gradually keeps getting pushed further into the central panel and visibly gets lower than the other switches. The extra pressure needed to activate the switch distorts the innards of the switch over time time, making it require more and more pressure to make it work.

I pulled the switch out, inserted some home-made stuff to reinforce the mounting base and put the switch back in. It works better, but the distortion in the switch itself is still there. I'll be pulling it apart to fix it again, hopefully for good this time.

You might have the same condition. Pull the switch and check to see if the place where it installs looks like it has any plastic missing. Just a little bit missing can have a negative effect on the switch.

HTH

 

This approach worked for me: The rear of the center console was interfering with the window switch buttons too. The buttons would hang up. I shaved down the outside edges of the buttons with a bench grinder. I trimmed all 4 button leading and trailing edges. I cut away a taper from the center pivot to the rear too. As the plastic melted, I scraped it off with a pick. I cleaned up the edges with files, and a blade. This required some fine filing and scraping to keep all clearances good. Now all 4 of the center console buttons work fully without sticking. You may also need to trim down edges of the switch housing to get enough throw about the center pivot point.

HTH,
<img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[burnout]" />

 

Thom,

I did a simillar thing with the addition of trimming the front part of the console hole the switch assy sits in. I shimmed the switch housing at the back, which pushed the whole switch forward in the hole. Wer'e talking about 1/8" total. Works like a charm.

Greg

 

I appreciate all the replies....on another thread I describe the same situation.

The switch is in good shape I think. The plastic is all there, contacts were cleaned. No hang-ups due to broken plastic or anything.

The switch just isn't working in the "up" mode and there's no electrical draw when pushing the switch that direction.

Since its been apart several times I'm not sure where the difficulty lies. I'm wondering if somehow the wiring has an issue, but the window isn't off the track or anything like that.

I need the electrical gurus on this one.

 

I had the same trouble and had heard about the "intreference" thing describing the console fit, but I took the switches out and re-connected them and there was no difference....... the UP mode was still hard to get. I then dis-assembled the switch, and noticed the limited excursion of the rocker mechanism in the UP direction. I took a "points-file" and filed away a bit of the plastic to allow further "rock" in that direction, and now have finger-tip UP and DOWN switching. Not much material needs to be removed.... I'd guess 1mm.

 

In a pinch just swap switches.

 

The window went up the following day. I went over to my new mechanic who used to work at Beverly Hills Porsche and knows the electrical real well. He showed me where the switch had a loose connection underneath but we tried soldering it back and no luck. New switch on its way along with new front tires....he was working on his client's factory 993 style RSR....very insane..the car apparently has run Le Mans and other endurance races. Try $140K used plus another $60K in replacements and upgrades.....and I thought 928s were expensive to maintain!