Brake Disassembly
#1
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From: Pacifica, CA--Land of Fog
Brake Disassembly
I'm going to refinish my calipers. I've reviewed Tony Harkin's site and looked at the Nichols site. Anyone else have any write-ups etc. to add to the collection?
#2
No, but i can tell you that trying to find Plastikote/VHT 900 degree caliper paint in gloss black was as easy as finding a 6-speed 928 gear box.
After visiting about 5 PepBoys stores, i gave up and ordered it from JCWhitney.com.
Save your gas and order it online. Its cheaper too.
After visiting about 5 PepBoys stores, i gave up and ordered it from JCWhitney.com.
Save your gas and order it online. Its cheaper too.
#3
Hi Seth,
Have Fun!
Thom’s Brake Work Essentials:
Brakes SQUEAL because metal shimmies against metal. The metal backing of the pad vibrates where it touches the pistons in the calipers. I found some anti-squeal adhesive pads to glue to the back of my brake pads. Most part stores carry anti-squeal juices. These mainly glue the pad to the pistons. The main problem with old pads would be just getting the pads and piston ends clean enough for the goo to adhere to both surfaces. If you are in that deep, just buy some new pads. If ROTORS are not turned during a brake job, vibrations/squeal can be heightened. Many specialists replace ROTORS when they replace pads.
A tough part is getting the wear SENSORS out of the pads without breaking them. I insert a miniature set of needle-nose tweezers into the metal loops alongside the protruding wire. Then tease the sensors out. Maybe pry the tweezers up with a screwdriver.
I like the Axxis Metal Master (same manufacturing line and process as Repco) pads for LOW DUST, and medium to high performance. The harder formula will cause rotors to wear faster. For me, it is worth the wear on the rotors to avoid frequent cleaning needs for the aluminum alloy wheels.
A large C-clamp can be used on the pad to PUSH PISTONS in.
To get those pesky Phillips head SCREWS out of the rotors – I wedge a really long screwdriver between 2 rotor studs, and against the ground. I use a Phillips head bit in a ratchet adapter. The ratchet gives the needed torque when opposed by the large wedged screwdriver. Others use impact wrenches to get the screws out.
Use ANTI-SEIZE on all bolts, and screws in high heat areas.
HANG CALIPERS, when removed, with wire to avoid kinks in brake lines.
See <a href="http://www.pelicanparts.com" target="_blank">www.pelicanparts.com</a> for brake BLEEDING procedures. I use a one man bleeding tool. It is just a check valve (one way) that slides over the bleeder. I pump the pedal with the car running until I see solid blue going through the tool's clear hose, add some more pumps, then close the bleeder valve. (However, now I would start by using the check valve type of bleeder valve (speed bleeder). I keep filling the reservoir up to where I can see fluid so I am sure no air is getting in. Pressurizers that keep adequate fluid in the reservoir should be fine, too. BLEED SEQUENCE: Master Cylinder, RR, LR, RF, LF. Do inner bleeder then outer on each caliper before moving to the next caliper. Use ATE Super Blue Racing brake fluid. Alternate flushes with Gold formula. It is German with a high boiling point.
PICTORIAL PROCEDURES:
1. John Pirtle’s site: <a href="http://members.rennlist.com/pirtle/svc.html" target="_blank">http://members.rennlist.com/pirtle/svc.html</a>
2. Tony’s Site: <a href="http://members.rennlist.com/v1uhoh/brakepad.htm" target="_blank">http://members.rennlist.com/v1uhoh/brakepad.htm</a>
3. Portia’s Site: <a href="http://www.kondratyev.com/porsche/vacuum_boost.htm" target="_blank">http://www.kondratyev.com/porsche/vacuum_boost.htm</a>
Greg Nichols’ site has WRITTEN troubleshooting PROCEDURES and more at: <a href="http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/nichols/tips.htm" target="_blank">http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/nichols/tips.htm</a>
<img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[burnout]" />
Have Fun!
Thom’s Brake Work Essentials:
Brakes SQUEAL because metal shimmies against metal. The metal backing of the pad vibrates where it touches the pistons in the calipers. I found some anti-squeal adhesive pads to glue to the back of my brake pads. Most part stores carry anti-squeal juices. These mainly glue the pad to the pistons. The main problem with old pads would be just getting the pads and piston ends clean enough for the goo to adhere to both surfaces. If you are in that deep, just buy some new pads. If ROTORS are not turned during a brake job, vibrations/squeal can be heightened. Many specialists replace ROTORS when they replace pads.
A tough part is getting the wear SENSORS out of the pads without breaking them. I insert a miniature set of needle-nose tweezers into the metal loops alongside the protruding wire. Then tease the sensors out. Maybe pry the tweezers up with a screwdriver.
I like the Axxis Metal Master (same manufacturing line and process as Repco) pads for LOW DUST, and medium to high performance. The harder formula will cause rotors to wear faster. For me, it is worth the wear on the rotors to avoid frequent cleaning needs for the aluminum alloy wheels.
A large C-clamp can be used on the pad to PUSH PISTONS in.
To get those pesky Phillips head SCREWS out of the rotors – I wedge a really long screwdriver between 2 rotor studs, and against the ground. I use a Phillips head bit in a ratchet adapter. The ratchet gives the needed torque when opposed by the large wedged screwdriver. Others use impact wrenches to get the screws out.
Use ANTI-SEIZE on all bolts, and screws in high heat areas.
HANG CALIPERS, when removed, with wire to avoid kinks in brake lines.
See <a href="http://www.pelicanparts.com" target="_blank">www.pelicanparts.com</a> for brake BLEEDING procedures. I use a one man bleeding tool. It is just a check valve (one way) that slides over the bleeder. I pump the pedal with the car running until I see solid blue going through the tool's clear hose, add some more pumps, then close the bleeder valve. (However, now I would start by using the check valve type of bleeder valve (speed bleeder). I keep filling the reservoir up to where I can see fluid so I am sure no air is getting in. Pressurizers that keep adequate fluid in the reservoir should be fine, too. BLEED SEQUENCE: Master Cylinder, RR, LR, RF, LF. Do inner bleeder then outer on each caliper before moving to the next caliper. Use ATE Super Blue Racing brake fluid. Alternate flushes with Gold formula. It is German with a high boiling point.
PICTORIAL PROCEDURES:
1. John Pirtle’s site: <a href="http://members.rennlist.com/pirtle/svc.html" target="_blank">http://members.rennlist.com/pirtle/svc.html</a>
2. Tony’s Site: <a href="http://members.rennlist.com/v1uhoh/brakepad.htm" target="_blank">http://members.rennlist.com/v1uhoh/brakepad.htm</a>
3. Portia’s Site: <a href="http://www.kondratyev.com/porsche/vacuum_boost.htm" target="_blank">http://www.kondratyev.com/porsche/vacuum_boost.htm</a>
Greg Nichols’ site has WRITTEN troubleshooting PROCEDURES and more at: <a href="http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/nichols/tips.htm" target="_blank">http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/nichols/tips.htm</a>
<img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[burnout]" />
#4
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From: Pacifica, CA--Land of Fog
Wow, thanks for the detailed write-up Thom.
My pads are pretty new (like a year or so) can I re-use them? Do I have to replace them?
I'm going with RED paint, big, bright RED calipers to scream to everyone that here are MY CALIPERS.
Whew. That felt good.
My pads are pretty new (like a year or so) can I re-use them? Do I have to replace them?
I'm going with RED paint, big, bright RED calipers to scream to everyone that here are MY CALIPERS.
Whew. That felt good.
#6
Hi Seth,
One year should be acceptable wear on pads. The only reason to change them while they are exposed could be to reduce brake dust.
Rotors become too thin to turn easily on this car. Some drilled rotors with a cool hole pattern could set off those calipers nicely.
<img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[burnout]" />
One year should be acceptable wear on pads. The only reason to change them while they are exposed could be to reduce brake dust.
Rotors become too thin to turn easily on this car. Some drilled rotors with a cool hole pattern could set off those calipers nicely.
<img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[burnout]" />
#7
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From: Insane Diego, California
Not to mention installing the balancing weight on the outside of the wheel, Jerry.
Let me guess - Pep Boys? <img src="graemlins/roflmao.gif" border="0" alt="[hiha]" />
Let me guess - Pep Boys? <img src="graemlins/roflmao.gif" border="0" alt="[hiha]" />
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#9
[quote]Originally posted by Seth W:
<strong>I'm going to refinish my calipers. I've reviewed Tony Harkin's site and looked at the Nichols site. Anyone else have any write-ups etc. to add to the collection?</strong><hr></blockquote>
Seth:
I painted my rear calipers red at the same time I installed some Big Reds. See the following links for more info:
<strong>I'm going to refinish my calipers. I've reviewed Tony Harkin's site and looked at the Nichols site. Anyone else have any write-ups etc. to add to the collection?</strong><hr></blockquote>
Seth:
I painted my rear calipers red at the same time I installed some Big Reds. See the following links for more info:
- <a href="http://www.ed.scherer.name/Porsche_928S4/Slideshow5.html" target="_blank">my installation photos</a>
- <a href="http://www.smiley.net/kcrpca/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=8" target="_blank">caliper painting thread on Kansas City Region PCA (look for my posts in this thread)</a>
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From: Hotlanta - NE of the Perimeter
FWIW-
I used the VHT Ceramic based paint for all of my calipers (I used Yellow). Follow the directions - one LIGHT coat every 15 minutes for a total of 5 coats. Check out my page on the P car on line pages for pics.
hth-
I used the VHT Ceramic based paint for all of my calipers (I used Yellow). Follow the directions - one LIGHT coat every 15 minutes for a total of 5 coats. Check out my page on the P car on line pages for pics.
hth-
#11
If your looking for caliper paint - I know of a good source to purchase from.
<a href="http://www.performanceproducts.com" target="_blank">www.performanceproducts.com</a> (18004233173)
Van Nuys California
Brake Caliper Lacquer
Page 53 of Cat.51b Spr/Sum 2002
Ref# 9370 In Silver, Yellow, Blue, Black or Red
54.95 Kit - Comes with cleaner and two part lacquer and paint.
Or
<a href="http://www.madirect.com" target="_blank">www.madirect.com</a> aka Tweeks
They may have paint? - I don't know of hand.
Hope this helps and BTW - I agree that Pep Boys is a Joke - I will never set foot in that store again.
D67
<a href="http://www.performanceproducts.com" target="_blank">www.performanceproducts.com</a> (18004233173)
Van Nuys California
Brake Caliper Lacquer
Page 53 of Cat.51b Spr/Sum 2002
Ref# 9370 In Silver, Yellow, Blue, Black or Red
54.95 Kit - Comes with cleaner and two part lacquer and paint.
Or
<a href="http://www.madirect.com" target="_blank">www.madirect.com</a> aka Tweeks
They may have paint? - I don't know of hand.
Hope this helps and BTW - I agree that Pep Boys is a Joke - I will never set foot in that store again.
D67