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Trying R Compound Tires for First Time

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Old 09-21-2007, 11:39 AM
  #31  
Mike Simard
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Originally Posted by SwayBar
Those pressure are pretty high, hot, for Hoosiers; we typically run 38-ish hot front and rear.
I thought it seemed high, the front did seem to like a wee more than the rears. I did drop it to about 38 and then went out and spun. It was a surprising spin, it just didn't hold as well as earlier and exceeded it's limits, they didn't like the lower pressure. Well that and I suck too. I should add that these tires are at the end of their life and behaving badly for what they are, especially once the tracked warmed.
Old 09-21-2007, 12:57 PM
  #32  
James-man
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Originally Posted by SwayBar
What's up with those 16v's sounding so good? The 32v's are close, but not close enough for whatever reason.
I agree with the sound of 16v versus 32v. Seems there is something sonically superior about bigger valves.
Old 09-21-2007, 01:16 PM
  #33  
FlyingDog
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Originally Posted by SwayBar
I've said it before, but the best sounding car EVER at Road America is Jean-Louis and Agnes' 16v Euro which has MSD headers, a Y into a 3 or 3.5 single pipe into a straight-thru Magnaflow (..I think). That car sounds like a racecar should. It has a higher pitch (..not rumbley at all), while being very harmonically rich. People come up in the pits and comment on it's sound all the time.
Slightly OT.... Did he have any problems with noise regulations at tracks? That's the same exhaust setup I have (3").
Old 09-21-2007, 01:37 PM
  #34  
SwayBar
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Originally Posted by FlyingDog
Did he have any problems with noise regulations at tracks?
No. Compared to most cars on the track, it is the least noisy, especially compared to the air-cooled 911's which to me sounds hideous (..and I do own a street-only 993 and love it).
Old 10-03-2007, 01:47 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by atb
A lot of guys are posting about more aggressive alignment, but you'll be fine with stock. I was still able to get farily uniform temps across my tires (again stock sizes) with stock alignment. Probably wouldn't be the case with wider/taller tires.
Just got back from a fancy alignment machine and they couldn't dial in camber any farther than -.7 degress. It cost me a bunch of money to get me nowhere.

I hope stock works.

I am not looking at extreme settings. I just wanted to start at around -1.5 and see which way to go from there. Since I can't even get into that ballpark, what are my options? I am pretty sure that I have adjustable spring perches. Can I lower my 86.5 just enough by adjusting these to get a bit more range in alignment settings?

Thanks!
Old 10-03-2007, 06:28 PM
  #36  
Jim bailey - 928 International
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If you lower it now , the toe also changes... that wastes the alignment. Run it like it is then consider using early the longer lower arms and spacer shims ( GM style Y spacers) on the late uppers then of course another alignment . Also max out the caster at the same time it greatly adds recovery to a wheels pointed forward mode...unless you are still going backwards after the spin
Old 10-03-2007, 07:31 PM
  #37  
James-man
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It bugs me a bit that these guys didn't suggest lowering as a means of getting to the specs I was looking for. It was a performance shop.

I am friends with a guy at a tire center. Maybe he will work with me under a "lifetime" alignment arrangement to get this squared away.

I am not familiar with these pieces you are mentioning. Are they things that get put in when someone goes to the effort of installing aftermarket sway bars?

Thanks.
Old 10-03-2007, 07:39 PM
  #38  
sweanders
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Stock suspension with 75k miles is going to have trouble keeping up with the kind of grip that R-compounds can generate.
Old 10-03-2007, 09:48 PM
  #39  
SwayBar
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Originally Posted by James-man
It bugs me a bit that these guys didn't suggest lowering as a means of getting to the specs I was looking for. It was a performance shop.
That's because lowering the car would not help increase in the negative camber that you need.

I am not familiar with these pieces you are mentioning. Are they things that get put in when someone goes to the effort of installing aftermarket sway bars?
Those pieces that Jim mentions are the only way you will be able to increase your negative camber, and are independent of any sway bars, but certainly can be used with aftermarket swaybars.
Old 10-03-2007, 09:53 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by sweanders
Stock suspension with 75k miles is going to have trouble keeping up with the kind of grip that R-compounds can generate.
I have no problems believing that.

I have one foot on the slippery slope.

I expect tires to magnify body roll. Will need coilovers, swaybars, race seats & harnesses, start lightening, wider wheels, and start thinking about rollbar or rollcage.

Do you anticipate that R tires on my old stocky car as is will cause the car to become more unpredictable?

Thanks for the input.
Old 10-03-2007, 10:02 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by SwayBar
That's because lowering the car would not help increase in the negative camber that you need.


Those pieces that Jim mentions are the only way you will be able to increase your negative camber, and are independent of any sway bars, but certainly can be used with aftermarket swaybars.
I have never heard about these parts being discussed before. Granted, I was never particularly concerned about race set ups. 10 years ago there was a lot of talk on the Porschefans list about coilovers, swaybars, lowering, etc.

I kinda expected extreme camber settings would need modification. That is true of many cars. I didn't think that we would be limited to as little as -.7. I mean, geez, that was the alignment setting I was given by default after I had my tranny off the car.

Thanks.
Old 10-10-2007, 07:22 PM
  #42  
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Update. I didn't detect a dramatic change in behavior with the tires. I pushed them a few times and saved them a few times when they broke loose, so I do not fear snap-spin at this point. Even drove them in the wet for a couple of sessions, no problems. The car turned in better than on old street tires, so improvement was noted.

I did notice wear on the outside of the the tire tread, no surprises I guess, so camber plates will need to go on the menu.

Thanks to everyone for sharing your knowledge and experience with me.
Old 10-10-2007, 07:35 PM
  #43  
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Glad you had a good run James.

My personal experience was that when I ran the R-compounds, it wasn't a heavens-parting, angel's singing, life enlightening experience of performance compared to running street tires......
until I got back on the track with the street tires after having running the R's for a bit.

Hippo on rollerskates for sure.
Old 10-10-2007, 08:58 PM
  #44  
cdbtx
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R Compounds take time to learn too - It's taken me almost two years to finally get to where I can feel the edge. I ran Pacific Raceways with the Yokohama AVS 100's and the Pilot Sport Cup, same day, same conditions, pushing the AVS 100's to the max - almost 10 sec's a lap difference.
Old 10-10-2007, 09:19 PM
  #45  
dr bob
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Originally Posted by James-man
Update. I didn't detect a dramatic change in behavior with the tires. I pushed them a few times and saved them a few times when they broke loose, so I do not fear snap-spin at this point. Even drove them in the wet for a couple of sessions, no problems. The car turned in better than on old street tires, so improvement was noted.

I did notice wear on the outside of the the tire tread, no surprises I guess, so camber plates will need to go on the menu.

Thanks to everyone for sharing your knowledge and experience with me.
Camber plates work on strut suspensions where the position of the top of the shock/strut determines caster and camber. On the early 928 front, you'll want the to use the later upper A-arms to get the negative camber you are looing for.


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