Originally Posted by jwillman

I had put PB blaster on it best I could from all angles two times a day for 3 days prior to trying to remove the pump. As I applied pressure it felt like it slipped rather than turning. I have again tried morer PB blaster and will try again this weekend but I am not hopeful.

Originally Posted by Ketchmi

The o-ring in the adapter you used is not rated for gasoline. Use an aluminum or copper crush ring of the appropriate size instead as it will degrade and provide you with a sizeable leak...

Also since you are already running wires into the battery box, why not just extend the ground wire to the terminal instead of a potentially intermittant dirty ground that you connected to?

Originally Posted by Rob Edwards

Because of a blockage in my front fuel damper (See https://rennlist.com/forums/7514076-post72.html), I blew the fuel pump fuse when testing the stroker for fuel leaks. So I decided to run a separate power supply for the 044 pump.

On the advice in this thread, I decided to put the relay in the battery compartment. Here's my kindergarten-level description. (Note that the relay hasn't been mounted, the wires not dressed, shrinkwrapped, etc...)


I used a standard '53' relay, wired up like so:

+ battery terminal to fuse holder (with 15A fuse) in the battery box, run thru a 1/4" hole into the spare tie compartment, directly to the 30 terminal on relay.

Run a red 12 gauge wire from terminal 87 to the + terminal on the 044 pump.

Run a brown 12 gauge wire from the - terminal on the 044 pump to the ground point near the front edge of the spare tire compartment

For controlling the relay, I spliced a green 16 gauge wire from the original switched 12V wire at the external fuel pump and ran it back up to the relay, terminal 86, and then a short brown ground wire from terminal 85 to the same ground point nearby.

Here's the arrangement in the spare tire well:



So there are 3 wires from the spare tire area to the fuel pump area. The factory harness to the fuel pumps passes thru a grommet by the passenger side shock tower area, and then down to the pump along the fuel line in the wheelwell:



In the wheelwell (wires aren't fully wrapped yet):


So the factory wiring has a red wire that splits at the external pump to power it and then internal pump. Same thing for the ground wire. Since I'd now supplied separate power and ground to the 044 pump (visible at left), I just cut off the terminals and spliced the harness wires (feeding in at 6 o'clock, below) to the internal pump wires (in the big foam insulation, at 12 o'clock). I also connected the green wire (going back up to terminal 86 on the relay) to the factory switched power wire.