Rob Edwards

Made the mistake of looking at Dan's Zyclamrot car up on the lift at Greg's today and came home with an 044 pump and a hose to replace the stock piece that runs between the internal and external pumps. Functionally it's identical to the setup Andrew posted at the start of this thread, but it has a trick hose clamp connector on the end so it clamps onto the nipple on the internal fuel pump, and then threads into the 044 pump.

RE: wiring additional relays, Greg didn't think it is necessary.



He's also got a nice replacement solution for the flex fuel hose that runs from the output side of the fuel filter forwards thru the gas tank cradle and up to the hardline in the RR wheelwell. Pictures soon.

John Speake

Suggest you measure the volts at the pump when at WOT during a dyno run........ just to be safe.

chewy8000

I used Andrews writeup to install the 044 in my car. I just wired it up to the original connections for now, but my jayracing relay and wiring kit came in so when I get a chance I will upgrade it. FYI the stock wiring positive connection is not big enough to fit on the larger 044 positive terminal. You will have to cut the connection and add a larger loop. Also my pump did not come with any nuts for the terminal you will have to get a 10mm nut for the positive side. The old nuts work for the negative.

6.0-928S

The 044 pump I have has a 14mm inlet not an 18mm. Are there two 044 pumps?

Hammer

jeff spahn

So. Replacing this thing was easy peasy. Drop the three tank bolts, pull out the pump and put in the strainer.

Didn't need the 36mm socket but it looks cool in my toolbox so for $9 from Sears why not keep it?

Didn't need penetrating oil or anything. I could just almost turn it out with my fingers. Probably a little loose don't you think? Taped up the ends of the wires and tucked them up above the fuel lines. Everything was super duper clean. SoCal cars have it so easy.

Any way, strainer from Roger is in until pump gets rebuilt (yes, it runs).

Everyone with an internal pump that hasn't been touched, pull it today and check it. You are talking an hour tops to do the whole job! Don't want to get stranded on the side of the road with a chunk of rubber jamming your main pump.

Andrew's post rocks!

croakar

How do you know if you have an intank pump. Are the specific to a certain year?

Rob Edwards

Because of a blockage in my front fuel damper (See https://rennlist.com/forums/7514076-post72.html), I blew the fuel pump fuse when testing the stroker for fuel leaks. So I decided to run a separate power supply for the 044 pump.

On the advice in this thread, I decided to put the relay in the battery compartment. Here's my kindergarten-level description. (Note that the relay hasn't been mounted, the wires not dressed, shrinkwrapped, etc...)


I used a standard '53' relay, wired up like so:

+ battery terminal to fuse holder (with 15A fuse) in the battery box, run thru a 1/4" hole into the spare tie compartment, directly to the 30 terminal on relay.

Run a red 12 gauge wire from terminal 87 to the + terminal on the 044 pump.

Run a brown 12 gauge wire from the - terminal on the 044 pump to the ground point near the front edge of the spare tire compartment

For controlling the relay, I spliced a green 16 gauge wire from the original switched 12V wire at the external fuel pump and ran it back up to the relay, terminal 86, and then a short brown ground wire from terminal 85 to the same ground point nearby.

Here's the arrangement in the spare tire well:



So there are 3 wires from the spare tire area to the fuel pump area. The factory harness to the fuel pumps passes thru a grommet by the passenger side shock tower area, and then down to the pump along the fuel line in the wheelwell:



In the wheelwell (wires aren't fully wrapped yet):


So the factory wiring has a red wire that splits at the external pump to power it and then internal pump. Same thing for the ground wire. Since I'd now supplied separate power and ground to the 044 pump (visible at left), I just cut off the terminals and spliced the harness wires (feeding in at 6 o'clock, below) to the internal pump wires (in the big foam insulation, at 12 o'clock). I also connected the green wire (going back up to terminal 86 on the relay) to the factory switched power wire.

Koenig-Specials 928

Yes, it took me just over an 1 1/2 to do mine as well. I ran the 12 Ga wires so that my new 40 amp relay sits behind my tool kit, on the left side, nestled by the sponge. That gives me 100% access to check for voltages etc if required. My spare tire is filled with a custom sub box. Great mod. My internal pump was also nfg.

John Speake

We pulled back the existing FP harness into the trunk, located the additional relay near the spare wheel, used those wires to energise the new relay.

Then fed new heavy gauge wires to the O22 pump via fuse & relay down to the 044.

jwillman

I will add a note of caution to the "Everyone with an internal pump that has not been touched, pull it today" recommendation.

Mine has apparently failed and was not hand tight. Mine, as well as at least a few others, was frozen in place and causes the threaded insert in the tank to break loose. Once this happens you are facing a questionable repair method or tank replacement! Just want everyone to know what they might be getting themselves into. My recommendation would be if it is not broken don't fix it!

Maleficio

Considering that everyone that's done this job found their internal pump to have a split hose, and yet their car's seemed to run fine, I would say the main pump will work fine by itself. The split hose would allow the internal pump to push most of the pressurized fuel right back into the tank, right?

Maleficio

But so far, everyone's internal pump has been broken. Maybe some PB Blaster on the threads for a few hours?

Go-carter

Is this a positive mod for CIS cars, with only one external pump also? Mine is whining from time to time(Even after cleaning out the system for dirt) so I was thinking about upgrading.

Maleficio

Marvel Mystery oil is fairly good at quieting fuel pumps. A dose at every tank is a good preventive measure.

jwillman

I had put PB blaster on it best I could from all angles two times a day for 3 days prior to trying to remove the pump. As I applied pressure it felt like it slipped rather than turning. I have again tried morer PB blaster and will try again this weekend but I am not hopeful.