? Battery cutoff switch
#31
Electron Wrangler
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Guess I'll be the first one. The '88 that I have has an always live lighter socket. The fuse that's indicated as being the cigarette lighter fuse in the wiring diagrams, and on the factory fuse/relay chart that comes with the car, is the one that does actually control the lighter socket. All wiring and connections from the lighter to the fuse panel is 100% factory stock looking. I've had the fuse panel out and all wiring and connections on the back of it were 100% factory stock looking as well....
A thought for Larry.. on the '88 w/ this - do your brake lights still work with the key out of the ignition?
Alan
#32
Pro
To Alan, or anyone else who might know the answer -
I noticed a few weeks ago that my brake lights do NOT work with the key out of the ignition. They work perfectly with the key in and ignition in the run position. I searched RL and I read my owner's manual and have not found any information on this. Now today I see your question to the OP in this old thread. So what is the answer? Should the brake lights work with the ignition off, or should they be disabled?
I noticed a few weeks ago that my brake lights do NOT work with the key out of the ignition. They work perfectly with the key in and ignition in the run position. I searched RL and I read my owner's manual and have not found any information on this. Now today I see your question to the OP in this old thread. So what is the answer? Should the brake lights work with the ignition off, or should they be disabled?
#33
Team Owner
the brake lights should not work with the key off
#35
Rennlist Member
I still swear by my method - fused charge socket under the rear license plate, connected directly to battery poles through the side of the battery box. Socket has a cap to keep out road debris. Enables battery diconnection for work (as in recent pod removal and ign switch replacement), but remains on charge. No need to open hood or hatch, no unsighly wires visible etc. 1.6A trickle charger.
jp 83 Euro S AT 53k.
jp 83 Euro S AT 53k.
#36
Electron Wrangler
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Yes the brake lights should not work with they key out - but nor should the cigar lighter/power socket and they share the same power supply. The wiring diagrams for all years are very consistent - it is always switched - so it seems odd any would be different - unless deliberately modified.
Personally I find switched to be far preferable choice.
It is possible that cars with an always powered cigar lighter actually just have everything else on the accessory (X Bus) powered all the time also.
NB
Like JP I prefer a dedicated connection - I have an always on fused lighter/power outlet in the hatch area (can go out through the hatch seal easily) for a normal charger to connect and another at the front where I can plug in a 110v lead that powers my installed schumacher trickle charger connected to the front jump post - this is easier for general maintenance use since I pull into my garage forwards and have a power outlet right in front of the car... I don't use either of these very often but its handy to have when needed.
Alan
Personally I find switched to be far preferable choice.
It is possible that cars with an always powered cigar lighter actually just have everything else on the accessory (X Bus) powered all the time also.
NB
Like JP I prefer a dedicated connection - I have an always on fused lighter/power outlet in the hatch area (can go out through the hatch seal easily) for a normal charger to connect and another at the front where I can plug in a 110v lead that powers my installed schumacher trickle charger connected to the front jump post - this is easier for general maintenance use since I pull into my garage forwards and have a power outlet right in front of the car... I don't use either of these very often but its handy to have when needed.
Alan
Last edited by Alan; 08-26-2011 at 12:15 AM.
#38
Electron Wrangler
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
I'd not recommend daily disconection - you may have ECU adaptation issues... thats certainly not how I use mine - for me its for emergencies (where time to disconnect is very critical) and for working on the car - where I want to know it will stay turned off - even if I'm working in the hatch area.
Alan
Last edited by Alan; 08-26-2011 at 12:40 AM.
#39
Nordschleife Master
Painless has a nice controller for a dual battery setup, I forget who makes the battery saver that disconnects before the battery is too low to start the car.
#40
Administrator - "Tyson"
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
I'm installing one of these in both 928's. Not only a battery disconnect it will also kill the engine and all accessories:
http://www.longacreracing.com/catalo...d=740&catid=14
I just haven't decided where to put it.
http://www.longacreracing.com/catalo...d=740&catid=14
I just haven't decided where to put it.
#41
Rennlist Member
I fitted a cut off switch to the ground strap, there's a write up somewhere.
For a trickle/maintainer I use a CB power pack, 13.8v 3 amp on the jump post.
For a trickle/maintainer I use a CB power pack, 13.8v 3 amp on the jump post.
#42
Rennlist Member
I have some experience here. YMMV. I'm on my second Schumacher. They don't last forever.
If your battery isn't sealed you should check it at least every couple months, probably should do that anyway, but over winter, I didn't; I guess this would also depend on the size of the parasite. Batt would still take a charge but failed a load test. An exposed cell will probably be a problem, replaced batt, problem solved.
If you use a cut off switch, don't use the $10.00 model; again, a no-start; replaced the switch with another cheapo, worked. I can't vouch for the $25.00 one, but my cheapo gave it up. When I had a no-start, I went back to a OE Porsche strap. No problems, since.
If your battery isn't sealed you should check it at least every couple months, probably should do that anyway, but over winter, I didn't; I guess this would also depend on the size of the parasite. Batt would still take a charge but failed a load test. An exposed cell will probably be a problem, replaced batt, problem solved.
If you use a cut off switch, don't use the $10.00 model; again, a no-start; replaced the switch with another cheapo, worked. I can't vouch for the $25.00 one, but my cheapo gave it up. When I had a no-start, I went back to a OE Porsche strap. No problems, since.