billtool

Since I don't know nuthin' 'bout birthin' no babies...I discovered the fibergalss has extruded from my x-pipe strap clamp and am gonna fix it now - but I'm curious as to what affects this may have on performance in general.

I'm running strong, but way lean and losing hp as a result. Intake refresh (thanks Roger) is on the schedule if it ever dips below 185 degrees down here.

What results (difference) should be expected once I tighten up my exhuast? X-pipes have been on since pretty much right afetr I bought the car, and I imagine I installed the fiberglass poorly from the start.

SeanR

I've got an answer for ya, but you won't like it

Mrmerlin

go to auto zone in the Hi performance section and look for heat sheathing, This is aluminized fiberglass use the 3/4 inch sheathing cut it so you can give 2 wraps around each pipe then clamp it ,
the silver foiled sheathing is much stronger and will last much longer than the bare fiberglass

billtool

I went ahead and used 2" fiberglass (bought it last night before I read Merlin's post) and wrapped the hell out of it. I put the famed Keim bolt stretcher torque on the clamps as well. Not leaking a puff of air. We'll see how long it holds up.

So - how does an exhaust leak downstrem of the crossover over affect performance (if at all)?

By the way Ken - your lift bars are awesome!

Mrmerlin

you will be doing this job again,
in the mean time get the sheathing and have it in your tool box for next time

billtool

Yeah - it's on the list. Next time I think I'll replace the clamps as well. I didn't do them any favors...I appreciate the best practice advice.

Stromius

Aren't there 2.5" to 2.25" clamps from Roger available to resolve this junction?

RKD in OKC

I've replaced the glass cloth 3 times and on my 2nd set of clamps. The clamps got stretched enough I had to get new ones.

Don't think leak past headers effects the power much. However sound and risk of in-cabin CO2 is well worth the fix.

Don Carter

Bill,

I used the silver Autozone stuff right from the start and mine are leaking. Still I think the silver stuff has to be an improvement over the plain fiberglass. Someone posted a link to these clamps a while back but I haven't tried them yet. Looks like the way to go. Stan also pointed out in a previous thread that if the middle supports are not present, it may encourage movement and leaking, so that's on my fall to-do list as well.

Having just finished a TB/WP job in triple digit temps on friends car, I think I'm done in the garage for a while. (at least for a few days...)

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/30732/10002/-1

ROG100

Currently when we sell the X pipes they come with the latest clamps - as shown in the link above.
They seem much better and seal much more effectivly. I have them for sale and in the two sizes needed.

Jadz928

Best method is to take your 928 to your fav. muffler shop and have them weld on a properly size adaptor sleeve. No special clamp or fuzzy fibre to worry about.

I'm not exactly sure why the x-pipe mfg. can't have a seperate SKU for the S3's and S4's >

Don Carter

Bill,

I got the 2.5" to 2.25" clamps from Roger and installed them last night. What I found when I removed the old clamps was interesting. The leaks were on the larger side where there was no fiberglass. (All the instructions I've seen said to only wrap the smaller side) I reinstalled with one wrap of the aluminized fiberglass from Autozone on BOTH sides of the clamp, overlapping about 1/2". There is just enough in the package to wrap all 4 pipes as long as you don't overlap by much. It's tough to get the clamp bolts started with the extra padding, but it worked and it's now quiet and all I can hear now is the leaks of my 10 year old RMB :-). (Think I'm gonna reinstall the rear muffler while it's up in the air, just to see what it sounds like with the X and no cats.)

I also replaced the center rubber hanger.