Shark Attack

its not that hard of a check... When I found my 89 had it.. it only cost me $60 for the guy to pull the bell and look.... that was a sad $60.00. I agree 110% with Jim. get out your wallet and have some one look at it or, get under it and have a look..... I think it is happening a lot more than any one realizes

Black Sea RD

Hi Roger,

I didn't know if you really wanted one or not, didn't want to push it on you. I have one left from batch #2 and it's yours. I will PM you and iron out the details.

Guess I need to order Batch #3.

Cheers,
Constantine

marton

Wimp
I can turn mine with one hand....

Marton

Mongo

How often should the crankshaft play and loading on the flex plate be checked and released? I'm doing mine once a year if that's okay.

Jim bailey - 928 International

No one KNOWS the interval but once a year seems reasonable more often if you find that the clamp has slipped !!! perhaps use a NEW bolt AND always a Torque wrench to be sure of the tightness.

Black Sea RD

In the tests conducted a new pinch bolt had no effect on stopping the slipping. Has to do with the Porsche clamp stretching out too much and not being able to clamp well enough any longer.

Strongly agree with Jim with using a torque wrench for the proper torque on all critical fasteners on the 928 and really any car. Can't say how many times I witnessed professional mechanics use their own "internal" torque wrench when doing jobs.

Constantine

Mike B

Constantine, when "Batch #3" is available I would be interested.

Black Sea RD

Hi Mike,

One will have your name on it. Will contact you by PM when batch #3 comes in.

Cheers,
Constantine

Mike Frye

I hate to stir this up again, but is there a consensus on whether the crank should be pushed forward, back or centered before tightening the pinch bolt?

We're having a tech session on this today and I want to know how it's usually left.

oups59

+1

Vilhuer

Since its always pushed one way I think its fairly safe to put crank to opposite end so that it has as much travel as possible when trouble starts.

Black Sea RD

You are not stirring anything up, great question! The manuals are very vague after the practice of using the circlip, bearing, and washers to set the distance between the front flexplate and flywheel was stopped.

We recommend the flywheel be leveraged back toward the transmission and then clamp the front flexplate. The TBF problem occurs when the crank is ground into the back (trans side) of the thrust bearing of the engine. Trying to find a middle distance for the crank is not that easy and the crank usually settles again a bit off the front of the thrust bearing due to tensions of the belts on the front pulley.

HTH,
Constantine

Mike Frye

Thanks Erkka and Constantine, that makes sense.

StratfordShark

Hmm I'm sure I asked about this here once the first time I needed to hand crank the engine, and I was told Park or Neutral was OK.

Can't remember what I actually did now but the post got me worried!

Does it matter whether P or N for turning the crank?

sendarius

NJSharkfan's question and Constantine's response leave me a little concerned also.

If you lever the crank (via the flywheel) all the way back on the understanding that the standard behaviour is for the drive shaft to push the crank forward, I can see the sense in it.

BUT

The claim to fame of Constantine's clamp is that it ELIMINATES this movement, so wouldn't we now see problems with the FRONT of the thrust bearing as the drive shaft winds up, shortens, and pulls the crank rearwards?