No Start Issue
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Racer
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 457
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From: Picton Ont.
No Start Issue
This was the Shark that received a 12 volt reverse polarity at the battery terminals some months ago and this is the first attempt at starting since that time. Installed new battery and all of the appropriate dash lights - low/no brake fluid (I'm flushing and the level is low) are on as expected, the (!) light is also lit. During the start phase all sounds normal but it doesn't actually start, tried this 5/6 times -same scenario. It seems as if there is no fuel getting thru (tank is full) and I'm wondering if the relay for the "fuel delivery pump" is fried.
Any thots welcome cause I'm at a stoplight that isn't changing.
How do I get the relay out and how do I test, if that's possible?
Any thots welcome cause I'm at a stoplight that isn't changing.
How do I get the relay out and how do I test, if that's possible?
Range Master
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Ouch.....anythime I have had a reverse polarity event, any diode directly in line got fried.....No I don't want to explain how I know this....
Is the fuel pump running when you turn the key to on? The relay is interchangeable with one for something else. I forget what, but do a search hear under fuel pump relay, and you will find it. swap em and see if that gets it.
Is the fuel pump running when you turn the key to on? The relay is interchangeable with one for something else. I forget what, but do a search hear under fuel pump relay, and you will find it. swap em and see if that gets it.
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Joined: Jun 2001
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From: Ball Ground, GA
First, kneel at the right rear bumper and listen for the fuel pump buzz as someone operates the starter. The pump runs ONLY when the engine is running or the starter is operating. If there is no buzz, check fuse #13.
If fuse #13 is good, make a relay jumper. Get three feet of zip or lamp cord (two-conductor stranded wire used to hook a lamp to the wall outlet); one single-pole single-throw toggle switch with ON and OFF clearly marked; and two 1/4" flat male spade terminals. Put the switch on one end of the wire, the terminals on the other end. Keep this in the glovebox, not at home.
The fuel pump relay (XVII) on the USA '84 model isn't interchangable with any other relay. Remove the relay. Look at the wiring diagram on the relay, and identify terminals 15 (ignition-switched power) and 87 (load, i.e., fuel pump) in the relay socket. Install the relay jumper between terminals 15 and 87 in the socket.
Turn the ignition switch on. Turn the relay jumper switch on. Listen for the fuel pump buzz. If no buzz, check fuse #13 again, because you may not have done it right the first time.
Use a test light or meter to check for power on terminal 15 in the relay socket. If there is power there, pull the metal cover just forward of the rear bumper and check for power on the fuel pump wires. If there is power on red/green and ground on brown, but the pump doesn't run, the pump is probably bad.
If there is a buzz from the fuel pump, use a mechanic's stethoscope or a long screwdriver (tip on the injector, handle firmly against your best ear) to listen to the fuel injectors while someone operates the starter. There should be a regular slow clicking from each injector. If not, you may have a major problem with the LH ECU. It would be worth checking for power on the injectors first - if no power, the LH relay (XVI) may be bad.
Good luck ...
If fuse #13 is good, make a relay jumper. Get three feet of zip or lamp cord (two-conductor stranded wire used to hook a lamp to the wall outlet); one single-pole single-throw toggle switch with ON and OFF clearly marked; and two 1/4" flat male spade terminals. Put the switch on one end of the wire, the terminals on the other end. Keep this in the glovebox, not at home.
The fuel pump relay (XVII) on the USA '84 model isn't interchangable with any other relay. Remove the relay. Look at the wiring diagram on the relay, and identify terminals 15 (ignition-switched power) and 87 (load, i.e., fuel pump) in the relay socket. Install the relay jumper between terminals 15 and 87 in the socket.
Turn the ignition switch on. Turn the relay jumper switch on. Listen for the fuel pump buzz. If no buzz, check fuse #13 again, because you may not have done it right the first time.
Use a test light or meter to check for power on terminal 15 in the relay socket. If there is power there, pull the metal cover just forward of the rear bumper and check for power on the fuel pump wires. If there is power on red/green and ground on brown, but the pump doesn't run, the pump is probably bad.
If there is a buzz from the fuel pump, use a mechanic's stethoscope or a long screwdriver (tip on the injector, handle firmly against your best ear) to listen to the fuel injectors while someone operates the starter. There should be a regular slow clicking from each injector. If not, you may have a major problem with the LH ECU. It would be worth checking for power on the injectors first - if no power, the LH relay (XVI) may be bad.
Good luck ...
Nordschleife Master
Joined: Aug 2002
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From: South Texas
Yes and no, Orest.
A general purpose Bosch relay should work OK, however, you'll lose two important functions.
1. You will no longer have a rev. limiter.
2. If you crash, and can't turn of the ignition for some reason, you can't kill the fuel pumps. Thus in a chrash like that, if you break a fuel line for any reason, it'll spray gasoline everywhere.
A general purpose Bosch relay should work OK, however, you'll lose two important functions.
1. You will no longer have a rev. limiter.
2. If you crash, and can't turn of the ignition for some reason, you can't kill the fuel pumps. Thus in a chrash like that, if you break a fuel line for any reason, it'll spray gasoline everywhere.
