ViribusUnits

Other tests not in the WSM.

Put your ohm meter on the two plugs on the green wire. Measure the resistance. Get a vacume pump, pull up to at least 400 mbar of vacume. While your pulling the vacume, make sure the resistance doesn't change. Do this with both the two plugs, AND between the plugs and ground. If the resistance jumps you've got a bad distributer sensor, if I recall correctly.

Double check your vacume lines. The under the hood pictograph is correct, but hard to follow. Ask if you need help, I'll see if I can't explain it. It's not that bad once you understand it, but it's hard to figure out if you don't have a leg to stand on.

When your able to make her run, take a moment and double check the fuel mixture fix it if needed, and use the idle bypass screw, not the ignition timeing, to adjust your idle speed. Do not use the in dash tack to set your idle speed. Mines is off 200 rpm most of the time, often more. Use some sort of calibrated external tach.

Good luck.

Mitch Johnson

VU thanks, it will tomorrow night before I can check any of this.

I am skeptical of the coil still, but will check this stuff and let you know.

Appreciate it.

ViribusUnits

Mitch, the voltage checks on the coil are not to check the coil. They are to check your power supply, and the grounding of it.

When the ignition is on, but the engine is not running, current constantly flows through the coil. The ballast resisters, and the resistance of the coil decide how much resistance the circut has, and that decideds hou much current flows through the coil. If the ballast resisters have too much resistance, there will not be enough current through the circult, AND the voltage at terminal 15 will be low, assumeing the transisterized unit is good.. Basicly, since your ohm meter can't test the resisters, this is another way to do so.

This test basicly assumes that the rest of the system is good. I assume that you were able to test everything but the ballast resisters.

Good luck.

Mitch Johnson

Eureka, I do believe I found the problem. While doing the items recommended by VU, I connected up the timing light and operated the starter, no light <img border="0" alt="[ouch]" title="" src="graemlins/c.gif" />

I decided to do all of the WSM stuff again in case I missed something the first time through.

When I tested the rotor the first time I didn't check it between the INSIDE and the business end, just across the top if that makes sense. The metal piece inside the rotor has infinite resistance to the rest of the metal parts. I have a bad rotor <img border="0" alt="[grrrrrrr]" title="" src="graemlins/cussing.gif" />

I can find no other problems.

VU the voltages at the coil were:

Terminal 1 1.36 V
Terminal 15 3.93 V

Thanks for the tips, I'll get a new cap and rotor and hope to drive it tomorrow sometime.