Life is hard and then you die or said another way, schedule a demo ride and the air conditioning which was working two days ago goes kaput. Diagnosis shows that the 30 amp blower fuse self destructed and took out the 5 fuse fuse block in which it resides. I cannot find a part number for that block but they look like they can be replaced. Anybody got one they will sell me and ...

how do you remove them? Before I start prying and pulling I thought it prudent to get some basic instruction.

Thanks.

 

I have an 85+ Central Electric panel I am dissassembling. I can let you have a fuse block for $25 incl. shipping. This will be a color matched but not number matched block (numbers are underneath and not normally visible). I may be able to match the numbers (if you care for $30). Functionally they are directly equivalent. I can send you a photo of the block - it will be evident how the retaining clips work 2 clips per side along the longest edge - push fit into the panel, you will need a thin putty knift or spatula to release.

For others - you can prevent a failure of the coolling fan fuses (which are the most common failure culprits) by removing the fuses on the CE panel (solder & shrink wrap the wire connections on the back of the panel. Then install 2 new fuses (in a fuse block) in the battery box at the +ve terminal where these are supplied from (test you got the right ones). This is the place the fuses should really be anyway on these supplies.

Otherwise preventative maintenance on fuses should focus on the high current ones - 25A & 30A (unless you detect major issues) - once a year or so take them out and and evaluate the blades - are they clean and free of corrosion. If they are damaged don't clean them - replace with new - high quality ones. If you have bought chinese (cheapie) fuses throw at least the 25A & 30A ones away and buy good ones...

Alan

 

Thanks for the information. Found one and it is on the way.

 

Where did you find one, and how much?

 

I posted this reply on the Pelican board - thought I'd post it here in case I gave the wrong impression on fuse block compatibility..

Old Tee

Don't know if you got it out already - but it comes out to the front of the panel - the side the fuses are on. There is a single locking tab in the middle of both the long sides. if you have a thin putty knife slide it between the frame & the fuse block - if you just push back in the middle you will locate the tab - Since yours is junk - just push back (or side to side) on it and you will likely break these tabs off - then the fuse block should just slide out the front. Taking them out without breaking the tabs is quite possible but there is a technique to it - a hook & pull behind the back of the tab. Making a special tool helps. It is also possible to release them using the slots from the rear - but without a different special tool - its difficult to do and more likely to cause tab breakage.

Replacement is simple - push click.

However - make sure the blocks you are replacing both have functional tabs & are the correct configuration. Except for numbering & color the molded block parts are the same - however the teminal configuration is not. The input terminals (top) in some blocks are ganged together in various configurations. This is accomplished vis use of multiple linked terminals. On rennlist when I said they are interchangeable - I meant they would be interchangeable if I sent you them - because I'd configure the block for what you need (I have a bunch of spare fuse blade terminals of all the types...

So make sure you have the right ones on the way. I'm not sure that they are even the same by block number across all model years... I believe its 'likely' 85-89 are all the same and that 90-95 are all the same but between these there are likely differences in terminal configs due to major changes in fuse assignments in 90.

To validate what you have - take the fuse block face plates off - 4 tabs in the side - push in gently - just enough to release (except you probably don't care if you break them now...)

See the terminal top configuration or test with a DMM/ohm-meter

Alan

 

Thought I'd follow up.

First, Thanks Alan, your instructions probably kept me from doing something stupid.

Once the fuse block was removed the fuse pins could be cleaned. It was a pretty simple procedure except for removing the computer to lower the fuse panel, which I didn't have to do. That part was instructive but unnecessary. I treated the fuse pins with Corrosion Block, put it all together and the car wouldn't start...... Reseting the connector on the computer solved that problem and now I have blower and therefore air conditioning. Simple job.

 

Glad it worked out..

So in the end were you able to resuse the old fuse block & terminals after cleaning? or did you replace those and clean some of the others...?

To everyone:

Also let me say it again - don't buy the cheap Chinese fuses on eBay - they are not good anyway but especially for the high current fuses 15A & above they can be a major contributing cause of melting your fuse panel... just not worth it - good quality fuses are cheap enough.

Maybe I should start selling kits of good quality fuses in the sizes a 928 uses!

Alan