First I want to thank everyone who's been helping me through the auto to 5spd swap on my '87, esp. Steve Cattaneo and WallyP. Thanks for your patience!

Can't tell if it's running poorly, or if I'm just getting more vibrations now, but after finishing the swap, things are pretty rough. Made sure I plugged the vacuum line left from the auto. I also got the manual coding plug for the EIK control unit (thanks to Dave @ 928 Specialists), but nothing improved.

Does anyone know of any other ignition or FI coding or adjustments that need to be done when going to a 5spd?

Thanks,
Jeff

 

Okay, how 'bout this...

Does the '87 also need the LH unit re-coded? I see coding diagrams in the shop manual... different for 5spd. Do I even HAVE an LH unit in '87, or just the EIK? If so where?

 

Anyone?

Beuller?

 

You do have an LH computer in your '87. It's located underneath that carpet corner at the right side of the passenger footwell. The LH and EZK computers are both mounted in the same metal bracket there, and there's only one coding plug for the computers. I don't know if you really have to, but I would change the coding to the way it is for the 5-speed.

 

Thanks Mike.

I did just that. For some reason, the shop manual called the EZK an EIK on one page, so I got confused and thought maybe there were two separate coding plugs...

 

The LH controller, which controls fuel management, can’t distinguish between an automatic and manual transmission. The purpose of the coding plug is to “fulfill legislative specifications”, meaning emissions regulations for the country the 928 was exported to. The main function of the coding plug is to control CO levels. It puts the system in an open- loop/ closed – loop mode on cars with a catalytic converter and O2 sensor.

The LH coding plug for a manual transmission with catalytic converters is Part #928 607.433.00.For 1987 and up S4 cars worldwide.


The EZK controller on an 87 and up 928S4 with an auto transmission can differentiate between an auto and manual transmission. The way it knows is by the automatic transmission protective circuit.

Because of the high torque (hahaha) of the 87 and up engines, in order to reduce shift hardness from 2nd to 3rd on full throttle acceleration, the EZK controller retards ignition timing 16 degrees for 260 ms. By removing the auto trans, the protection circuit signal to the EZK is lost. This puts the controller in an emergency run program, retarding the ignition timing.


Another potential problem is you could have damaged the ignition-timing sensor when installing the manual transmission flywheel on the crank. The sensor in mounted on the back of the engine block.

Do you have an engine vibration or an engine roughness?

<img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />

 

Thanks Steve,

I did replace the EZK (or EIK?) coding plug(or whatever plug is on the CPU chassis). Where is the LH plug anyway?

What I have left I believe is engine vibration. I can feel it in the car, even while standing still with clutch in, at any amount of throttle. I can feel it right through my seat and floor. Don't remember feeling anything even remotely like it until at least 4000 rpm before the swap.

One weird thing; when under the hood touching the engine, it feels pretty smooth...

..and why did you laugh about the torque? Not enough?! <img src="confused.gif" border="0">

 

The LH and EZK control units are in the passenger side foot well, next to the central electric board. They are marked LH and EZK. The coding plug is on the back of the control unit holder. To remove first disconnect the battery, UN bolt them from there holder.
There is no torque like a big block motor, 454.



<img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />

 

[quote]Originally posted by steve cattaneo:
<strong>
There is no torque like a big block motor, 454.


</strong><hr></blockquote>
Heh, point taken...

 

Now I'm thinking maybe my flywheel or clutch is out of balance. Is this common? Can't feel anything when touching the engine, but can feel through the floor, seat, shifter, etc.

Any ideas?

 

Was the vibration there before the swap? When do you feel the vibration, car moving, or still or both. Do you feel it with the car running in neutral not moving and your foot off the clutch pedal, now step on the clutch pedal is the vibration still there. <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />

 

Less vibration before the swap. I feel it all the time. Doesn't change at all. Just saw a post by Wally P about motor mounts. I think this may be my problem, as the engine doesn't move at all when revved. Can't even budge it by hand.

I think maybe I did them in by shoving things around during the swap. I'm going to have a look at the mounts tomorrow (after my alignment)

Thanks!

-Jeff

 

Well, It WAS the motor mounts. Installed the cheapo alternatives. Unbelievable difference!

Thanks, everyone.

 

Jeff-
Keep us posted on the longevity of the cheapo motor mounts, if you please. What procedure did you follow & how long did it take?

Cheers,
Donald

 

Certainly will...
I mostly used John Pirtle's directions at:
<a href="http://members.rennlist.com/pirtle/" target="_blank">web page</a>

I took the better part of a day, but spent alot of time tracking down the mounts (got each at a diff chain with different brand names.. same mounts). I'd say probably 4 hrs. of actual labor plus some head-scratching. BTW, I found it easier (only possible, actually) to remove the driv-side mount after the pass-side one was out. Probably because the rack could be shifted more.

-Jeff