10w-60???

 

It's called Castrol TWS 10W60....full synthetic and unrelated to the castrol crap they sell here. It is the fill required under warranty for M series bimmers..and so far I have only found it there for like $9.80 per liter (not quart). John Veninger knows about it and says its good stuff..I also hear they get the range of viscosity through good synthetic stock..not a bunch of additives...

Next time I'm near the BMW dealer I'll pick some up for a change..

later,
Tom
89GT

 

IMO 60 weight is going in the wrong direction for a healthy motor. Even the track guys up here (Paul and JL) run 50 weight.

 

So..this brings up an interesting question...if low end cold viscosity is 10w..and high end is 60W...would the viscosity not be dependant on temp etc....what harm could there be in running a 60W..if the temp of the motor only "requires 50W".... The only thing I could think would be wasted power due to slightly thicker oil?..

Personally don't know the answer but ran the TWS in my GT for a year or so..without any issues that I could tell from driving.

BTW..redline sells a 60W racing oil for racing only...(I'm assuming it's 60W straight synthetic.not any range)..

Later,
Tom
89GT

 

Tom,
That was discussed pretty heavily in this thread:
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-forum/366268-the-oil-viscosity-poll.html

 

I didn't see a real bunch of detail from those in the know (e.g. Doug)..I'll search for Dougs posts again to refresh my memory..but from what I gather from that thread..the 10W60 is perfect for track...gives protection way beyond our needs..and has 10W cold starteability...and is fully synthetic...Now if it were only cheaper
later,
Tom
89GT

 

tom, that was my thinking originally. if the main use will be in spring/summer months in the u.s. then one should be able to use any weight at the hot end since it only 'becomes' heavier as the temperature goes up. at low to normal temps the weight will be the low number (10-15). so using a 15-60 or 15-50 shouldnt make much of a difference until temps started getting very high.

 

Jim-
That darn near matches my experience. I went to Mobil 1 15W-50 and everything is happy again.

 

That is the train of thought I was sharing in the other thread. If you never reach full temp in the oil, you will be nowhere near the upper weight of the oil. This is why I’m working on an oil temp sensor. Just curious to see what temps I’m getting up to. With summer pretty much over, testing on a 95 degree day will have to wait.

As for Doug - word around the Rennlist sewing circle is a few people (myself included) were out of line questioning Doug's advice. So we have not heard from him in a while. Many of us were / are simply sharing our experiences in an effort to learn more about this very touchy subject.
It’s a big loss if this is true since I never once got the impression anyone was questioning his expertise (at least not in the 928 forum).
My car did not agree with his advice, could be due to many factors (like worn lifters causing the clicking with lighter oil).
This is probably why this thread has 189 views with only 24 or so posts by a few people.

I’m sure a few more PM’s are going around right now about what an idiot I am.

Oh well, with 40 weight oil my lifters can be heard from across town. 50 weight they are silent. That is all I need to know.

Z who lives in the same climate has zero issues running 5w-30 (or 10w, cannot remember).

 

The correct spelling is "vithcothity". OK?

So, just use what the manufacturer recommended, ie 20W50. I use Mobil One 15W50 and have no issues. I have used 15W40 with good results also. But I prefer 15W50 It has a lower winter viscosity which is great, and a high summer viscosity (oops VITHCOTHITY) which is great altho.

 

And Erik you are indeed an idiot, but such a good one .... just like me and our buddy Thomas

 

Dude, thicker (more couscous oops viscous) oil is bad because it cannot get to the bearings as fast as thin oil can.

 

I used Mobil1 0w-40 for a long time and it always worked well as far as I was concerned, including in 100+ degree temperatures, in traffic, with the A/C on, on the dyno, etc. I then tried the Mobil1 0w-30 Racing oil. That seemed to work okay except for one instance. Starting with a fully warmed up engine, after a number of back to back dyno runs at a shop that had a fan that was on the small side, on a day with the outside air temperature in the 90's, there was a small amount of lifter ticking for a little while. The ticking occurred at idle after completeing the final dyno pull, stopped after a few seconds of idling, and never returned in any driving situation. The low oil pressure warning never came on, and the pressure gauge never dropped to what I'd consider a dangerously low pressure, even when the ticking occurred on the dyno. My current oil choice is the Mobil1 0w-40.

 

Erik, I believe he runs 0W-40.

As for oil viscosity and ambient temperature, this Porsche Technical Bulletin states that ANY weight of an approved synthetic oil is good for ALL conditions. You'll note that 5W-30, 10W-30, 10W-40, and 10W-50 synthetics are all good for operating the car in over 100+ degrees ambient temperature:

 

The thing is though...I believe 10W is thin oil...and the 10W60 is just that..10w and up to 60W...all good in my book..even Mobil 1 15-50 is great stuff....

I remember way back in the frozen cold northern reaches of Canada..I was adding oil to my Corrado..just topping off a quart..and it was like -10 Celcius...pulled out the ole 10W40 pennzoil.and tried to pour (it was stored in the cold garage)..and it wouldn't even come out of the bottle. Had some Mobil 15-50 synthetic sitting in the garage too..so I grabbed that..and it poured out like water...couldn't believe it..at that point I became a believer of synthetic..even 15W in cold weather..

Frankly I'm more concerned with hot issues out here in the Pac NW over the cold issues as the car live in a garage for the most part.

Later,
Tom
89GT