Bill,
I found some of the replacement bulbs at AZ Autohaus website. Might take a look there as well.

Gary Knox
West Chester, PA

I paid nearly $6.00 bucks a piece from one of the big three for these bulbs! Glad I only needed five.

Michel - yeah, I agree the wattage should not be a big deal with these bulbs.

Gary - AZ Autohaus search for instrument bulb for my car comes up with 2721MF8, which is a T2-1/4 rather than T1-1/2.
http://www.donsbulbs.com/cgi-bin/r/b...w%7Cb8.3d.html

The glass is different diameter and the base design is B8.3d, different from the B8.4d. Not sure which is correct yet for which socket. It is 1.2W.

I believe that link for the bulb above is only for the bulb (sans base). On my 91, the buls are soldered to the connectors on the base (not sure if this si the same for other years). Anyway, I ordered a BMW part that had the same specs from Pelican.

1.5W Part # 62-11-1-391-260-M97 @ $1.00 ea.
1.2W Part# 62-13-1-383-311-M97 @ $2.00 ea.

So far they work great.

Bill,

I compared all the measurments of the 2473MFX6 (cross reference to 2351MFX6 1.2W) with an actual 2352MFX6 2W light bulb/socket. They are the same.

Here are some pictures of my pod with all the 1.5W (light green and yellow) replaced with 2W lamps. The blue ones are unchanged.

Hope it helped.

Michel

https://rennlist.com/forums/attachme...1&d=1239711492
https://rennlist.com/forums/attachme...1&d=1239711535

Andrew/Bill,

Yes - I now remember that it was the BMW bulbs that I ordered as well. I took a chance (at that price), based on the pictures, and they turned out to be correct. I also put dimmable LED's from "SuperBrightLEDs.com" for the backlighted instruments. Used the "daylight" model, and they work great.

Gary Knox

Schocki: Great thread, thanks for the writeup.

Bill, I have an intermittent speedo problem, no reading sometimes. When I tap the pod or push the trip odo reset it comes back to life. Would this be a reflow of solder to a connection or something else?

Well, since tapping on the pod has an effect, yes, I would pull the pod and speedo and reflow the solder points.

There may be some confusion generated by reading my earlier posts and some of the various MFX6 part numbers. Suffice it to say for the moment that ALL of the instrument panel bulbs from 89 on, with the exception of the 4 backlight bulbs, use the same T 1.5 (or T 1 1/2) base. The yellow and green base ones, used for LCD backlighting and shift indicators, are all 1.5 watt and the blue ones, used for the warning lights, are 1.2 watt. Here are sources for both, although the base color will not match.
1.5 watt:
http://www.aboveallmotorwerks.com/Pr...1391260_S.aspx

1.2 watt:
http://www.alliedelec.com/Search/Pro...754%2F2351MFX6

Andrew shows the BMW part numbers above in message 64, ordered from Pelican.

Michel used 2W bulbs and shows the panel appearance above. That should work fine too.

Michel - are the bulbs here for the LCD in stock colors? - not sure if the look of this is based on camera color artifacts or if you tried to change the color of the LCD display?

I had speculated a long time ago that one could try to use alternate colored bulb covers (I have red, green, yellow & blue + there are more) in the LCD though it seem to have a default amber tint even with white light...?

Yours looks rather interesting...?

Alan

Alan,

The computer display looks purple indeed! It's a camera color distortion. It's rather amber in real.

I can tell for sure that the red colored computer text for warning message comes from clear 1.5w light bulbs covered with some kind of thin red rubber coating (it can be removed and placed back on new clear bulbs). This being said, any other color coating on the bulbs will change the display appearance.

Michel.

Great write up and pictures. What do you guys recommend for a complete set of new bulbs? I might as well replace them all when I pull the pod. Should I get them with the bases or as bare bulbs?

Except for the 4 larger backlight bulbs, the bulbs are soldered in to their bases.

First, thanks Schocki for the great write-up and everyone else for their contributions. It was a big help, as I needed to take the pod apart to clean the grounds and the electrical connections, trying to resolve my erratic digital dash, fuel, speedo, and tach.

Question: when re-assembling, I noticed this connector was not attached to anything. I did not unhook it during the pod removal, at least not intentionally. I don't see what it connects to. Does anyone know?

It's probably for the reset botton in ROW models? Don't worry about it.