4 Wheel alignment cost?
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From: Temecula, CA
Greg,
I believe David C knows of another place here in MA that can do the aligment for around $200.00. Did you ask him about other sources?
I'll need to do mine soon too btw, new steering rack, tie rods, bushings, motor mounts going on this fall after the Lars show.
I believe David C knows of another place here in MA that can do the aligment for around $200.00. Did you ask him about other sources?
I'll need to do mine soon too btw, new steering rack, tie rods, bushings, motor mounts going on this fall after the Lars show.
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From: Madrid, España
Originally Posted by Jim M.
Or for the price of one GOOD alignment you can purchase all the necessary tools and equipment to do-it-yourself. Earl Gilstrom has an excellent write-up on it. The DFW group has been doing our own for over two years now with about 7 cars done so far and all have even tire wear. Once you understand the principles it's really easy. 
Jim Mayzurk
93 GTS 5-spd
Jim Mayzurk
93 GTS 5-spd
I have done my 928 a couple of times after some Axle maintenance and I have 100% even tire wear.
I'm aligning all my Porsches know the principle is always the same. They all run 100% straight and have a very even tire wear pattern. Bonus: If you understand how it works and you have the tools you can do a quick check on the alignment situation within less than 10 minutes in your own garage.
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Laser levels and some kind of adapter to hold it on the wheel rims works well for toe. I can get very good toe setting that way. I believe Schocki made his own camber gauge as well, but I'm still don't have a good camber set up. Most of the camber gauges that fit the wheel center, especially the bubble type, are not accurate enough. Slip plates can be made up cheaply with some grease and a few masonite boards. I bought a set resembling the HF slip plates for about the same price. I don't think you'll find any cheaper. They work OK.
I've tried string methods. I know all the racers use them at the track, but I think they are fooling themselves if they think measuring the distance from the string to the rim edge is accurate. I sure couldn't do it accurately. A 16th of an inch across a 17 inch rim span with string and rulers just doesn't appear reliable.
We should have a master thread on home alignment equipment.
I've tried string methods. I know all the racers use them at the track, but I think they are fooling themselves if they think measuring the distance from the string to the rim edge is accurate. I sure couldn't do it accurately. A 16th of an inch across a 17 inch rim span with string and rulers just doesn't appear reliable.
We should have a master thread on home alignment equipment.
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From: Baxter Tennessee
Originally Posted by dr bob
This will all be moved to its own thread too. It's getting away from Greg's question.
For now, how about a link to Gilstrom's write up?
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From: McDonough, Ga.
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From: Gone. On the Open Road
Originally Posted by Marine Blue
I believe David C knows of another place here in MA that can do the aligment for around $200.00. Did you ask him about other sources?
That's an average of $450.The thing with alignments is: you are paying for someone's time and trading off the hourly rate with your time and stress.
There are two places I know of (in or near MA) where you can leave your 928 come back a few hours later and have a good alignment. Those places are Musante (David Lloyd) and IRA Porsche (Bobby D.) Trouble is that you have to pay their hourly rate (at least $110/hour). But, you don't have to worry about a crappy alignment or a broken high-dollar part nor about having to brow-beat anyone into NOT lifting the car.
Alternatively, you can find a shop with a lower hourly rate and then spend your own time hovering and stressing and watching and shouting.
Its all a trade-off.
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Chronic Tool Dropper
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Laser levels and some kind of adapter to hold it on the wheel rims works well for toe. I can get very good toe setting that way. I believe Schocki made his own camber gauge as well, but I'm still don't have a good camber set up. Most of the camber gauges that fit the wheel center, especially the bubble type, are not accurate enough.
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Under the Lift
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From: Buckeye, AZ
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-forum/372422-home-diy-alignment-master-thread.html
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From: Buckeye, AZ
Sears has a "Craftsman Club" flier out that includes their 24" digital laser level for $40 #48293. Using this level and the brackets for the toe-in, you can easily set camber within 1/10 of one degree. Weeklong sale starts today (8/19 to 8/25). I'm on my way over there in a few minutes to get some before all the hoarders get there. Buy two of them instead of the HF cheapies, unless you want to use the digital one for something else later. You'll set camber, roll the car so the laser is level, and set toe-in. If you want to go with these instead of the cheapies, you can get away with the 10" model for $30 each and save some money and bulk in the tool drawer.
I'd like to see how you use your laser level kit to set camber. I saw Schocki's device and I'm curious how yours works for camber. Thanks.
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From: Bend, Oregon
Bill--
I used the string-and-drill bit method, the bubble-level and drill bit method, and starting today will use the digital level method.
I stopped by the Sears store and grabbed just the 24" digital level that I mentioned a few posts up. A couple spring clamps to hold it to the two angle pieces next to the square tube. Push the button, and instant camber reading, accurate to 0.1 degrees. Nice! The short level isn't long enough to span the two angle supports, but it could be sub'd for the main laser on the box tube and do both duties. The short one is on sale in the "Craftsman Club" flier for $30.
If I were starting from scratch on this project I'd just get two of those instead of the H-F lasers. The laser target is much better on the Sears units too. It's an easy set of concentric rings, rather than the "bloom" that the H-F unit has. This makes calibration somewhat easier. I did notice that the laser in the Sears unit is only marginally better aligned than the H-F units though. It's off by about 5/16" at 30', compared with 3/8" to 1/2" on the tow H-F lasers I bought originally.
I still don't have a good solution to the caster issue though.
I used the string-and-drill bit method, the bubble-level and drill bit method, and starting today will use the digital level method.
I stopped by the Sears store and grabbed just the 24" digital level that I mentioned a few posts up. A couple spring clamps to hold it to the two angle pieces next to the square tube. Push the button, and instant camber reading, accurate to 0.1 degrees. Nice! The short level isn't long enough to span the two angle supports, but it could be sub'd for the main laser on the box tube and do both duties. The short one is on sale in the "Craftsman Club" flier for $30.
If I were starting from scratch on this project I'd just get two of those instead of the H-F lasers. The laser target is much better on the Sears units too. It's an easy set of concentric rings, rather than the "bloom" that the H-F unit has. This makes calibration somewhat easier. I did notice that the laser in the Sears unit is only marginally better aligned than the H-F units though. It's off by about 5/16" at 30', compared with 3/8" to 1/2" on the tow H-F lasers I bought originally.
I still don't have a good solution to the caster issue though.
