A word of caution , if you notice that the car is only running on half of the cylinders or suspect it, take a peek underneath the car and look at the cats, if they are glowing then you you should shut off the engine so your car doesnt catch fire and burn

 

The mechanic that recently worked on my car only had to adjust the throttle cables to get the TPS to close properly at the no-throttle position. Unfortunately, it does not want to run at the spec idle speed on cold start, or even when warmed up (probably due to crappy ISV, or maybe MAF, gaskets, vacuum leak, etc.), so I had to crank the idle back up to just under 1000 rpm to get it to stop stalling half the time. Before he adjusted it, my max instantaneous mileage was in the 60 mpg range. When he reset it, it read 90 mpg at max.

Once I get the underlying idle problem solved I will to set the idle back where it's supposed to be.

 

Update....

Was a bad MAF. The one I had in the car had replaced one that went about two years ago that was used....not rebuilt...so I was lucky to get the time out of it I did I guess.

Garth sent me a new MAF to test and voila......back to normal.

 

No kidding? Huh... maybe that's my problem. I tested my MAF according to the procedure I mentioned in my post above (resistance across pins 3 and 5) and found that it was out of spec (4.6 ohm). I did not do the second part of the test because I was out of daylight. I just found another procedure in pages 24-113 through 24-115 in the WSM.

Boyee - did you test the MAF or just replace it with the new one and notice the difference?

 

the idle switch doesnt do anything under off throttle conditions, excpet turn off fuel on full coast. (to stop poping out the exhaust ) so, it has no effect on gas mileage. (unless you are coasting down mount everest)
i regularly disconnect them on the race cars as it keeps the idle from falling too far down on quick rev blips .

Mk

 

Just threw in a new one and all my problems were gone.

I am getting the old one re-built to have down the road.