Alan

I didn't say they can't handle rebuilding a Bosch to spec... I mean they may not 'want' to help you customize it for more power or consider fit & config options for other brands....

Small long time esablished shops may - but chains are programmed for easy work and seem to discourage experimentation (prob due to high return rates).

You can understand that its risky for them especially if you have to modify a case for fit and make up a special cable assembly - then the whole thing is returned because it didn't work...

Nobody ends up happy - see Sharkskins Alt tale - and he had a great shop to work with.

99.9% of people just want the guaranteed plug & play.. and so thats their real business..

Alan

RicerSchnitzzle

^Gotcha. Just wanted folks to know there is an alternative to the $600 alternator. Carl sells only top quality and his service is second to none. I have frequent flyer miles on his site. For the plug and play guy, he's done all the work and gaurantees it. For the guy who wants to do a little research, there may a local shop that can easily accomadate rebuilding the Bosche. I got a core form my local shark graveyard (It's a sad site to see.. ) for $20 and had B&M build a monster for about $300. Still have my stock unit.

As for dual alternators, the kits are on most car audio sites. Hard part is the bracket fabrication to go where the smog pump is.

Jack Riffle

Sorry Alan, I have been very lazy today, but I am going to get the readings for amperage and voltage that I promised you in just a little bit. I did locate my paperwork on Carls alt and it doesn't give any specific information about it. Pretty much just installation related.

Jack Riffle

Okay, finally got of my dead butt and took some readings. These readings were all taken COLD. I will post the engine hot readings later.

At idle with radio, 800w amplifier and IPOD on-----Voltage 14.3 Amps---91

At idle with all the above on plus headlights------Voltage 14.2 Amps---86

At idle with all the above plus fog lights and AC with fan on max--Voltage--14.1 Amps--84

Hope this helps

Alan

Jack - that is excellent info - thanks so much for doing it...

Folks - I like the results shown here so far - the voltage is not quite as high as I feared - and the current capability is very good - interested to see what the hot data looks like too...

Alan

Jack Riffle

Alan, tech support from Propower (the alternators builder) told me that this alt will not experience anything near to that 33% loss when hot that I mentioned earlier. They say that this is due to the fact that they use much heavier and more durable internal parts. Should be interesting to see this when I do the engine hot checks. Hope to get to it later today. I will post results here afterwards.

Jack Riffle

Okay, just got back from a nice little "spirited" drive. I now have the results with the engine hot and auxillary fans running. These are the results..........

Engine idling @800rpm auxillary fans, radio, IPOD and 800watt amp on
14.10 Volts and 94 Amps

With all the above on AND headlights and AC with AC fan on max
Volts-13.62 and Amps-86.50

With all the above AND fog lights....
Volts-13.45 and Amps-84.45

I think I can now put my own mind at ease about having any electrical issues. I am really starting to like this alternator. If there are any other readings you guys would like me to take, just let me know. Damn it's been a rough day, lol, time for a cold beer!!!!

hacker-pschorr

Jack,
Those readings were taken with the meter hooked upto the battery, correct?

Alan

Jack - I like the results too...! as our 'all new' Mr Enzo says - exactly how did you measure? - do you have a convenient point for a clamp meter around the Alt wire?

Well - you've just about convinced me I want one of Carls alternators... Like I said I didn't doubt he'd seen good results - I just wanted to see some numbers.

Jack - you must be quite happy with this!

Alan

Jack Riffle

Erik, I installed temporary positive and negative wires directly from the battery. They do not go anywhere else. They are installed only because I too was curious how this new and expensive alternator would perform. As I said in an earlier post, The only correct way to see what your alternator is doing is at the battery, since the alternators only job is to keep your battery charged. The more electrical demand you put on your system, the more the alternator need to work to keep the battery charged. Alan, yes, I am very happy with the way this alternator performs and it apparently does not suffer the typical output loss from heat. I was sceptical too. I think I have enough power that I can finally install that beer cooler in the hatch area that I have been lusting for.

BC

Very nice. May indeed be what I need since I may be running a tran oil pump, intercooler pump, and a bigger fuel pump, possibly even a alcohol pump for water/alky injection.

hacker-pschorr

Atta boy!!!! Still have a little Green Bay in you!!!
Awww, nevermind.

BC

Yes, sorry about that. Indeed, when I lived in Green Bay for College, that was the only time I DID drink. Its in the air.

Alan

Jack - the measurement I'd most like to see would be the direct alternator feed current at the alternator terminal.

The alternators job is actually really two fold - supply all the current to run everthing in the car AND re-charge the battery. If its working well it will be charging the battery and supplying all the rest of the power consumption of the vehicle all the time and the battery will not be supplying anything... (just used for starting).

Worst case should be that the battery isn't getting charged but also isn't being discharged and the alternator is still supplying all the rest of the power consumption for the car.

If you were just monitoring the battery you were only measuring charging current... It is very high in that case? especially sustained... did you have a clamp meter installed around the batt cable?

I guess I'm not clear from your description quite how you measured the current.

The measurement I'm interested in is tricky to do - esp since most 928's alternators have 2 wires - one to the jump post and one to the starter/batt.

I'd want to combine that to a single wire for total output current.

Alan

hacker-pschorr

That's a good point since I've found myself driving a car with no battery. Jumper packs come in handey but not very safe leaving them connected.