sweanders

Yes, I am. It is not an intake, it is a "TwinAir Filter System". In the ricer world it would be called a CAI or Cold Air Intake..

Right there in the middle there is a beautiful stock intake performing the work you described.

inactiveuser1228

I believe all of the principles I laid out still apply over the stock air box setup. The blackbird looks like it creates a smooth, even velocity, column of air before the air enters the MAF. Something that is very desirable, and although it is up stream of the MAF, it is still part of the intake system. From what I understand, the most efficient intake and exhaust system, excluding the effects of certain scavaging header arrangements (try Y ect...) would be long straight velocity stacks with slightly rough interior surfaces, and long straight exhaust pipes. Something totally unworkable in the real world. The goal in any intake/exhaust arrangement is to keep the air moving through the system as smoothly as possible with as little resistance as possible. The way to do this best is to use the velocity of the column of air moving through the long straight velocity stacks to help overcome the pulse wave created in the column as the intake valve closing, so tha as even a pressure as possible can be kept upstreem of the intake valve.

sweanders

Steve, I don't disagree with you. I was just wondering what all the talk about intake was about since the stock intake is the same. It is just the filterbox that is replaced/upgraded. Check out Louie's post in the other thread about the Blackbird and there is another mod that creates the same results.

It seems to be all about creating a good flow to the MAF.

inactiveuser1228

I know, and you are right. It's just that when I look at the stock system, and the blackbird system, I can see how the Blackbird system would help to smooth the airflow and gain a few horsepower, even though it is on the upstreen side of the intake manifold.

mark kibort

so, you didnt do a side by side comparison?

if so, look forward to my dyno i just had to see that you can loose 20 hp or gain 20hp for possibly a gorrilla clamping your car down with more force for two different dyno set ups!

what were the actual numbers? sometimes the correction factors can mislead also. bad barometric pressure readings, etc. all of that stuff needs to be calabrated and very accurate.

I think, once an engine is heated up and you are doing multiple runs, they usuallly stay in a 1-2hp range. however, going back to a dyno 6 months later, and its a crapshoot.

mk

mark kibort

i have inlet guide vanes in the turns to the stock air box as welll. if you did have the staws for just the 90degree turns, i think you could help the turbulence that is always generated through turns and bends like this. Nice idea!
(just not all the way through the intake, as the extra surface area on the straight areas would counteract any gains, i would bet)

mk

Louie928

H,
IMHO, you don't want turbulence, or anything to muss up the air flow going into the MAF. When you are trying to mix fuel with the air, then some turbulence can be overall beneficial. That only happens downstream of the injectors. I think Dave's BB system could help by directing the air straight into the MAF rather than the 90 deg turn it has to make now from the bottom of the rather thin air box. Most engines have the MAF located in-line of an intake tube, not right at the outlet of the air box. The larger radius insert in the air box bottom does similar. Mark K. opened up the back of the air box top so some air can come straight in through the filter and not in from the sides like a stock box. That helps because the air isn't forced to go across the air filter pleats which are oriented the wrong way. They should be aligned the long way and not across the short dimension.