VehiGAZ

Just got off the phone with 928intl.com and got the answer to my question. Thanks for posting your replies though!

Ok, looks like this is going to be a bigger project than I thought, and I will need to do a little research on what other stuff should get replaced while I'm in there, all gaskets, etc. They said half a day, and Ryan just confirmed that, so I'll leave myself a full day to do it this weekend.

Any suggestions on what else to replace other than:

928 110 160 00 throttle flap valve
928 606 126 00 remote temperature (temp II) sensor
928 606 157 00 throttle position switch
928 606 161 01 idle speed adjuster (ISV)
and all gaskets?

SeanR

Knock sensors, might as well pull off the cam covers and check the chain guides. This is in my future as well.

RyanPerrella

yeah there is allot of stuff. I think Rob Edwards did a spreadsheet that came out to like $1700, so there is allot of crap you can do. Set a budget, and buy accordingly.

As Sean Suggested, you may just try the TPS switch and not do the ISV but since the ISV is probably cheaper then all the gaskets you need to buy, just do it.

Also do knock sensors as they are most likely all melted through and falling apart. Now would also be the right time to refinish the intake if yours is flaking as so many do.

Jim R.

This could get a bit expensive.

The first time I pulled my intake, I did the knock sensors, ISV, TPS, flappy valve, all breather hoses and vacuum lines/rubber fittings, all rubber and gaskets, fuel injector cleaning service/new seals, new fuel lines, new heater valve and hose......

I should have had the intake powdercoated the first time, the coating started peeling a short time later. The while you're at its add up quick here. It is not too bad of a job, just time consuming. I've had mine off 3 times now, it keeps getting easier.

VehiGAZ

I saw the Big List of intake parts to replace, but I think it is excessive for my purposes - this isn't a rebuild - the car runs like the low-mileage beauty it is, with the exception of cold idling, which it won't do.

The intake is still shiny so no powder-coating needed. And I'm not messing with the injectors at this time. So just the knock sensors and any hoses that look beat. If anything really ugly pops up, I'll cover it up, order my parts, and pick it up again the following weekend.

I'd like to get to the point where I can rebuild the intake in 4-6 hours.

VehiGAZ

PS... not ONE comment (pro or con) about my new avatar?!

RyanPerrella

NICE ***

Rob Edwards

Pro. Definitely Pro.

You can get away with considerably less than the absurd list I posted, that was meant to be the " I bought a car with no engine maintenance ever and everything needs to be done" list.

In addition to your list:

928 110 160 00 throttle flap valve
928 606 126 00 remote temperature (temp II) sensor
928 606 157 00 throttle position switch
928 606 161 01 idle speed adjuster (ISV)
and all gaskets?

I would just add all the vacuum and breather hoses (See PET page 40, item #'s 10, 11, 12, 14,15, 26, and 27). Mine were beat and cracked, and your car is 2 years older than mine.

VehiGAZ

Whew - so you guys are in fact alive! Good - I'll keep her up for a while then (she's one of the 2004 Hungarian F1 Grand Prix "grid girls").

Mine's only ONE year older, Rob, and a third of the miles! Still - time ages materials, not mileage, so I'll replace the hoses while I'm in there.

My wife is concerned that the GT is turning into a constant project. While she is of course completely right about that, she's nevertheless only partially right, in that I don't mean to be under the hood every weekend (I already did that when I was 6 - passing wrenches to my father during the weekly tune-up of his Opel GT. But until the basic flaws get sorted out, I will indeed be at it every weekend.

Thanks again for the advice!!

RyanPerrella

whats the other sensor on the other side of the water coolant passage called and whats it for again????

SeanR

Apparently my wife gets it. I'm waiting on a call from my lender right now, She found one she wants so I should have 2 of them to tinker on. Thank god I have a TV and fridge in the garage.


Oh, great ***.

RyanPerrella

Sean, where can i get a spring like that. My car died lastnight when the AC was on. Thought it was a fluke, but just got back in and was out driving and it died on me twice. I am certian what the problem is. Its the TPS sensor not clicking back, i assume because of all the cables running the throttle, there is some slack in there and not enough tension to spring that sensor all the way back. Thus i see how the spring would solve this problem, even if only temporarely.

When i would come off the throttle and put the car in neutral, it dosent just come down and stop at 775. It will come down to like 600 then "blip" back to 775 and it holds there. It has been doing this since i reported on the supposed fix. The idle is now dying when the AC is on only, I think the contact isnt being made because of binding in the cables. The return spring on the throttle plate is plenty strong enough but the shaft it rides on which is the input for the TPS sensor just isnt adjusted properly. I think i may pull the damn intake again in awhile and just pull the TPS sensor and open up the holes on the bracket so that i can clock it another couple degrees so i is always tripped to idle when it should. When i installed it i had it as far as it would go in one direction and it clicked. So i guess i can open up the holes on the two mounting tabs and get it to click a couple degrees sooner. This is really annoying but i realise i may have to do this a few times before its perfect.

I now think i didnt need the ISV or even the TPS switch, mine was just never clocked. I can sleep a little easy though when the parts were only $200 and not $1000, so i am not too concerned with this. But anyone else having idle issues, i suggest you try and clock the TPS sensor, or replace it and make sure its adjusted properly, before doing the ISV, although again when you have all the crap off, you may as well do it.

I am hoping the additional spring on the throttle plate will solve this for awhile. I would like the cars revs never to drop past 775. The blip that it does is somewhat annoying cause i know its not supposed to do that. I wish i could drive a brand new one and see how they run, i could then probably find a bunch of things that are out of adjustment on mine. I just adjusted my clutch pedal cause i didnt like where it was picking up, so thats better. But this damn idle is bugging me now.

And why only when the AC is on, is that an electrical thing, or is it dying because of the additional load on the crank to power the AC compressor? I did notice previously i would have 13 amps, but now it seems to be lower in the 12 range. Wonder if my alternator is packing up? Not sure why this could possibly effect the idle though, but then again, i dont know crap about electronics.

Bill Ball

Ryan: Did you recentlly R&R the intake? The throttle should have plenty of spring tension to return the plate to the idle stop, but there is a breather hose that if not positioned carefully can interfere with the throttle. Regardless, if you do get in there, carefully obseve the positon of that hose and the throttle action.

Bill Ball

There is a load signal that goes to the LH when the AC is turned on. The Spanner and Theo's diagnostic program check for that.

SeanR

Autozone has a varity pack you can pick up. It did fix mine, I had to mix/match to see which spring would work. I ended up using one that was too damn strong and make the pedal movement very tough. I took it off and am just going to refurb the pully this weekend.

I'll post some pics of the process as I do it and let you all know how it works out.

Have to thank Sterling for the refurb idea and Mike for the quick fix.