JHowell37

Okay, with rusted floorboards patches and/or replaced, I'm finally finished with welding and can now begin to reinstall my interior. I've done a search and it seems that many of you have replaced the sound deadening material used in your vehicles. Within a week of buying my '85 I could understand why. I pulled out the moldy, rotten rear seats and discovered the sound insulation was soaked with water. So I removed it. I still have the factory stuff in place that goes over the torque tube tunnel. Should I probably pull that and replace it as well? I actually managed to salvage a lot of this material from the body shell I bought a few months ago that never seemed to get an water/mold/mildew damage to it. I'm debating as to whether I should reuse it since it's in good shape (i.e. paid for.) Is there anything wrong with the OEM stuff other then the obvious water/weight issues? I'll probably go with Dynamat extreme in the areas that are in definite need of replacement although I'm not thrilled about the price. Any advice for doing this right the first time?

perrys4

I am really noticing how loud the interior of my car is too. Does this Dynamat really make a difference? Where is it applied. I am getting a lot of tire noise. Dam Yokohamas.

RicerSchnitzzle

Truck under spray does wonders for sound deadening. Spray it under the stock or dynamat. I had to use it in the back spare tire well when I installed the 15" woofer. The whole back end and battery tray were vibrating. Spray it on and vibration was gone. And it's about $6 a can, vs $32 a can of dynamat spray, or even worse buying sheets of dynamat. You can use on doors as well.

Jerry 87 928S4

You should do a search. Many have done this before with great success. I used "brown bread" about 4 years ago in every location I could reach ( inside doors, floor, cargo area, wheel wells, etc) and it made an amazing difference.

tomcat

I can't remember where I read it (here or not). But someone said that when applying dynomat or the like, you only needed to put strips down and didn't need to cover the whole surface. The objective is to change the vibration characteristics and strips in an "X" pattern was all you needed. Would save a lot of money on the reduced amount of material though.

Thought it was interesting but I'd probably cover the entire surface.

BC

I used Raamat. The owner, Rick, is a great guy.

rick(AT)raamaudio.com

Good, thick stuff, and he sells the glue and the ensolute to put over that, before you put the carpet on.

Another option, the only other one really worth it, is secondskin. I don't have any info on the owners, but its the real deal, and has other products.

http://www.secondskinaudio.com/

kingsmen11

I used some bubble wrap type insulation from Lowes, or Home Depot (found in the insulation area) and a can of 3M spray adhesive in the doors, on the floor and under the back seats and hatch area. It is light weight and cuts the noise and I hope temperature.

mdarney

I went to an auto interior shop and bought a roll of foil backed sound deadener for about $25. It took one roll for my 1977 corvette and I covered everything on the floor and tunnel. It made a huge difference keeping road noise and engine heat out of my car. I don't know how much dynomat costs but this option worked well for me without to much cost. -Mark

Hawkeyes

See my post from 5/25/07; the VB3.5 & V-Max will take care of 90% of your sound issues. PM me or call if you want to talk avout installation. It's pretty easy, but there are a couple trouble spots you want to pay particular attention to.

Hawk