Can't remove 2 high pressure fuel lines (stuck)
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Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Reston VA
Can't remove 2 high pressure fuel lines (stuck)
I decided to replace my old fuel lines even though they look fine and don't have any cracks. Might as well before I put the heads on. Swoosh there goes another $200. I can't seem to remove them though. They are locked on tight to the tiny metal fuel lines and I'm afraid of using to much force and twisting the lines. I have tried PB blaster with no luck. They are the two high pressure lines on the back left near the coolant reservoir. Very crappy angle to get any force on them as well. Anyone dealt with this and have some advice?
Thanks
Thanks
Team Owner
Joined: May 2004
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From: Philly PA
PB the lines every day for 5 days and also tap on the connection with a few sharp blows from a brass hammer, use the line wrenches after 5 days try to undo the connections, they are corroded so it will take a bit of time and vibration for the PB to work its majic
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From: Not close enough to VIR.
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From: Australia
Yes, BTDT....b@stard connections. When you get to replacing them, how do you tighten them in place? Only one is pressure, the other is return BTW. I replaced the whole steel pressure tube, and had to cut and join it to get it into place, could not avoid it without MAJOR dismantling of unrelated stuff. Just persevere, or maybe just back away from the whole idea....
jp 83 Euro S AT 50k
jp 83 Euro S AT 50k
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Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Glendale, CA
Careful! If you start rounding off swivel nuts and flare nuts, you will be sorry! (ask me how I know). First of all, I would make sure you are using quality flare nut wrenches that are straight (ends are not angled relative to the handle). The angled wrenches seem to be hard on the flare nuts when you use a lot of force.
One method that sometimes works is to arrange the two wrenches so that the handles make a somewhat narrow V-shape. Then clasp the two handles together in your hand(s) and squeeze hard using your hand(s) (not your arms). Done properly, this will transmit minimal force to the metal tube.
When I replaced these hoses on my car, I first loosened the connections on the engine side. Then, after examining the poor access to the connections on the firewall side, I removed the steel lines from the car body with the hoses still attached...
One method that sometimes works is to arrange the two wrenches so that the handles make a somewhat narrow V-shape. Then clasp the two handles together in your hand(s) and squeeze hard using your hand(s) (not your arms). Done properly, this will transmit minimal force to the metal tube.
When I replaced these hoses on my car, I first loosened the connections on the engine side. Then, after examining the poor access to the connections on the firewall side, I removed the steel lines from the car body with the hoses still attached...
Last edited by Optimator; Nov 6, 2019 at 04:53 PM.
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From: Sydney AUS
Probably not good for flare nuts on fuel lines as the spanners are too small, but.......
To get the Oil cooler lines off the radiator (You MUST counterhold these also) with IIRC 27 and 32mm spanners, I used a coil spring compressor between the ring ends of the combination wrench spanners (Open ends of the spanners were on the nuts) to apply a lot more controlled force to the spanners than my hands could do in a controlled manner.
Maybe you could do something similar with the somewhat smaller spanners needed for the fuel lines. A couple of pieces of plate formed into hooks for the end of the spanners and with holes to connect together with a bolt you can tighten carefully thus squeezing the spanners together in the way that undoes the flare nuts.
You could even try a spanish windlass. Loop of hairy string between the free ends of the spanners, stick a lever (1/4" socket extension bar or something similar) through the loop and start twisting.
The aim is to apply a controlled constant force - Hands alone cant do this - let ingenuity be your friend.
To get the Oil cooler lines off the radiator (You MUST counterhold these also) with IIRC 27 and 32mm spanners, I used a coil spring compressor between the ring ends of the combination wrench spanners (Open ends of the spanners were on the nuts) to apply a lot more controlled force to the spanners than my hands could do in a controlled manner.
Maybe you could do something similar with the somewhat smaller spanners needed for the fuel lines. A couple of pieces of plate formed into hooks for the end of the spanners and with holes to connect together with a bolt you can tighten carefully thus squeezing the spanners together in the way that undoes the flare nuts.
You could even try a spanish windlass. Loop of hairy string between the free ends of the spanners, stick a lever (1/4" socket extension bar or something similar) through the loop and start twisting.
The aim is to apply a controlled constant force - Hands alone cant do this - let ingenuity be your friend.
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,196
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From: Haymarket, VA
After I broke my fuel line off at the hose coming from the fuel filter, I thought I would just put the end of the hose in a vise and remove the male fitting with ease.
Eventually, I discovered that even a pipe wrench wouldn't break it free. I took it to a local shop to have them remove it and fix the #**()!@%$ thing.
Now there's nothing left of the male fitting but the threads. They're still in the hose, and the rest of the fitting is in shreds.
The fuel line I broke is NLA, although 928 Specialists website says they do sell it - for well over $400. There's no way I can justify that price - and I'm very surprised how difficult getting anything else to replace it has been.
My new interior should be here withing a week, and I still have no immediate hope of getting my car running. I'm becoming very unhappy thinking about this again.
Eventually, I discovered that even a pipe wrench wouldn't break it free. I took it to a local shop to have them remove it and fix the #**()!@%$ thing.
Now there's nothing left of the male fitting but the threads. They're still in the hose, and the rest of the fitting is in shreds.
The fuel line I broke is NLA, although 928 Specialists website says they do sell it - for well over $400. There's no way I can justify that price - and I'm very surprised how difficult getting anything else to replace it has been.
My new interior should be here withing a week, and I still have no immediate hope of getting my car running. I'm becoming very unhappy thinking about this again.
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Joined: Aug 2001
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From: Up Nort
Originally Posted by kary4th
The fuel line I broke is NLA, although 928 Specialists website says they do sell it - for well over $400. There's no way I can justify that price - and I'm very surprised how difficult getting anything else to replace it has been.
After the Hell trip this weekend I'll be working on completing this. Parts are on the way.
Tim has all of the adaptors in stock to convert the factory steel lines to JIC / AN. We were going to do this on my car but I woud like to avoid adaptors. So we'll see how this new idea goes.
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Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Y-Bridge City, Zanesville, Ohio
Originally Posted by Mrmerlin
PB the lines every day for 5 days and also tap on the connection with a few sharp blows from a brass hammer, use the line wrenches after 5 days try to undo the connections, they are corroded so it will take a bit of time and vibration for the PB to work its majic
Before you "wham" the connector try to get something massive or immobile behind it to absorb the blow.
Administrator
Joined: Aug 2001
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From: Up Nort
Originally Posted by heinrich
Great news Hacker .... I can't wait 
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,196
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From: Haymarket, VA
Originally Posted by Hacker-Pschorr
FWIW Tim Murphy (Murf928) and I are working on a very cost effective solution to the NLA fuel lines. It will be a DIY type of a job, parts will not be expensive at all.
After the Hell trip this weekend I'll be working on completing this. Parts are on the way.
Tim has all of the adaptors in stock to convert the factory steel lines to JIC / AN. We were going to do this on my car but I woud like to avoid adaptors. So we'll see how this new idea goes.
After the Hell trip this weekend I'll be working on completing this. Parts are on the way.
Tim has all of the adaptors in stock to convert the factory steel lines to JIC / AN. We were going to do this on my car but I woud like to avoid adaptors. So we'll see how this new idea goes.
Also, your oil lines were sent out Saturday. Keep an eye out for them.
Administrator
Joined: Aug 2001
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From: Up Nort
Originally Posted by kary4th
Also, your oil lines were sent out Saturday. Keep an eye out for them.
Thanks again, not sure when I'll have time to do anything with this project, these lines were the biggest obstacle to overcome.
What I plan on doing with the fuel lines is similar to what you describe was changed to the oil lines. The hose Tim has on order is rated for 250psi with a burst rate up to 900psi. The type of clamps are on par with the factory ones used on the fuel pressure regulators. These clamps are specifically made for this hose and this application.
You will receive a free set, assuming it works.