928mac

I have encountered these problems with many automotive repairs and this is how it is repaired in the shop

I will use pics from above post to illustrate

on the right hand side I would remove the inner wall/carpet or panel.

If there is a plate wall the stops you from accessing the nuts then you use a hole saw that you can buy at any auto store. like this
http://ottawa.flyerland.ca/products/...roduct-5472396


Once you have drilled the inch to inch and a half hole you can start a nut by hand with lots of room for a wrench

KenRudd

Cutting holes will certainly give me the access I need, and it is certainly still a possibility, but I was looking for something clever/simple that did not involve cutting the body, or at least minimized it.

lawndart

look for a "rivnut". It's a hollow threaded rivet, available in various sizes, not sure about metric though.

CraigL

I just dealt with this very issue on my 944. The nut on the backside of the doorstop broke free. i had to drill the old bolt out to change the door stop bracket. That's when I discovered that the nut was in a blind pocket.

Instead of chopping a hole to provide access, I used a Nutsert. This is a threaded sleeve that is placed in an enlarged hole in the sheet metal and expanded/mushroomed from the front to hold it in place using a special tool.. Once I had gathered the right Nutsert and the tool, the repair took 5 minutes.

Nutserts are available for different threads, sizes and depths.

brianrheffron

I had been putting off dealing with this very problem on my own
89 S4 so this thread has been very useful.
Did a bit of searching on Rivnuts and Nutserts and found a link to
a DIY method of installation that does not need any special tools.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mzZc9FZ-pfo

KenRudd

That is exactly what I'm looking for.
I'll post results when I get a chance to test.
First challenge: The old screws can't be removed easily, they just spin, so I am going to have to drill off head, but of course, they just spin when drilled too, so I need to apply enough force on the bracket to hold the screw stationary when drilling. Anyhow, I'll post progress.

Jim Devine

Maybe something like this would work? Riv Nuts
are installed from the front & flare out in the back when set. If you put in a bolt to hold the plate, you could drill out the old nut & replace it with a Riv Nut.
Once you have a Riv Nut in, you could remove the temporary bolt & replace it with another Riv Nut.

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...es/rivnuts.php

They are available from other suppliers in larger sizes- this is just an example & description- Google Riv Nuts for suppliers

KenRudd

Okay looked more at the RivNuts and their related cousins. It appears you can get them in various alloys, from galvanized steel, to stainless steel, to Monel. In the small quantities I will be buying, the price is not much of a factor, instead for time invested I want to make sure I get the toughest, longest lasting repair I can make.

However, what I don't want is to get something like Monel, only to find it sets up a weird unexpected galvanic relationship with the alloy used in the door, leaving me with a huge rust hole after a few months of sitting there.

So, what should I use for tough, long lasting joy?

PC-85-928S

old thread-
on my passenger door I am missing the top screw, and there does not seem to be anything behind it-
would a traditional rivet work?

Majestic Moose

Been there, done that. See my post here: https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...l#post13662098

It has held up well two years later.