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Rubber boot on axle broken.

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Old Apr 11, 2003 | 09:26 PM
  #1  
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Post Rubber boot on axle broken.

Just returned from a major road trip (2500 miles without a glitch, not even burned a noticeable amount of oil). BUT inspected the whole car carefully back home and noticed the outer left rubber boot on my rear axle is torn. Does this require immediate attention?
regards,
Sab.
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Old Apr 11, 2003 | 10:43 PM
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YES - The boot replacement is small change compared to the damage that can be done to the CV!
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Old Apr 11, 2003 | 11:54 PM
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If you want to change just the boot, you will need to do it quickly. If you don't mind changing the axle, you can wait for awhile.
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Old Apr 11, 2003 | 11:58 PM
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Thanks Marc, thanks Wally,
I definetely would rather just change the boot, so I will attend it immediately.
But how can I make sure the axle is still OK?
regards,
Sab.
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Old Apr 12, 2003 | 12:09 AM
  #5  
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If the CV joint still looks wet with grease and doesn't make any noise, you're probably OK. If one boot is torn, the rest may not be far behind. If you are going to the trouble to do one, might as well pull the axles and do all four. Inexpensive parts and a relatively easy job - but one of the nastiest ever. Also a good time to replace the axle flange seals on the differential while you're in there.
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Old Apr 12, 2003 | 01:02 AM
  #6  
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I did a writeup on replacing the axle boots on my DIY site. Feel free to use it if you like. Click on the link in my sig to take you there.

Cheers
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Old Apr 12, 2003 | 11:32 AM
  #7  
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If you have the factory shop manuals it's not hard to do. I did the inner and outer boots on my 928 last summer. And thank God I did them too.
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Old Apr 12, 2003 | 11:56 AM
  #8  
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Did all mine last spring. I went the extra mile and completely cleaned, repainted and rebuilt all my CV joints and axles. That outter left boot is notorious for going first given its proximity to the muffler. There are a couple of tools you might want to consider purchasing to make your job eaiser if you dont have them.

1. Band clamp pliers
2. Snap ring pliers

You can get both of these tools at Advance or Pepboys.

<img src="http://members.rennlist.com/blueshark/Axleold.jpg" alt=" - " />

<img src="http://members.rennlist.com/blueshark/Axlenew.jpg" alt=" - " />
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Old Apr 12, 2003 | 12:52 PM
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Hey John,

I was just curious as to the difficulty level of rebuilding the axles? Also, Approx. how much for the rebuild and how long did it take?

Thanks for any info.,
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Old Apr 12, 2003 | 01:53 PM
  #10  
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Dave.

Easy job. The most tedious part of the job was cleaning all the old grease out of all the CV joints. I went thru a gallon of Simple Green. The most time consuming aspect was waiting for the paint to dry. If you dont paint, 5 hrs tops! My car was down from Friday night to Sunday afternoon. I did other stuff too, like an oil change and belt tension check, etc...

The rub with your job maybe that you have the latter style axles that required the removal of the axle nut. Mine do not.

The messiest part was repacking the joints. You gotta use your hands to do it right.

100 bucks for 4 Genuine Porsche boot kits from 928 Specialist. The kits have everything you need to rebuild the joints including a tube of grease. 20 bucks for the two tools i mentioned above and 2-3 dollars for a can of black spray paint.

125 dollars all told. I have pics of the tools if you need them.

<img src="http://members.rennlist.com/blueshark/Cv8.jpg" alt=" - " />

<img src="http://members.rennlist.com/blueshark/Cv6.jpg" alt=" - " />

<img src="http://members.rennlist.com/blueshark/Cv2.jpg" alt=" - " />

<img src="http://members.rennlist.com/blueshark/Cv1.jpg" alt=" - " />
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Old Apr 12, 2003 | 02:01 PM
  #11  
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Thanks John,

Doesn't sound too bad, so with painting I can expect to do main work one day and reinstall next.

Thanks,
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Old Apr 12, 2003 | 03:11 PM
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by John Krawczyk:
<strong>Dave.

Easy job. The most tedious part of the job was cleaning all the old grease out of all the CV joints. I went thru a gallon of Simple Green. The most time consuming aspect was waiting for the paint to dry. If you dont paint, 5 hrs tops! My car was down from Friday night to Sunday afternoon. I did other stuff too, like an oil change and belt tension check, etc...

The rub with your job maybe that you have the latter style axles that required the removal of the axle nut. Mine do not.

The messiest part was repacking the joints. You gotta use your hands to do it right.

100 bucks for 4 Genuine Porsche boot kits from 928 Specialist. The kits have everything you need to rebuild the joints including a tube of grease. 20 bucks for the two tools i mentioned above and 2-3 dollars for a can of black spray paint.

125 dollars all told. I have pics of the tools if you need them.

<img src="http://members.rennlist.com/blueshark/Cv8.jpg" alt=" - " />

<img src="http://members.rennlist.com/blueshark/Cv6.jpg" alt=" - " />

<img src="http://members.rennlist.com/blueshark/Cv2.jpg" alt=" - " />

<img src="http://members.rennlist.com/blueshark/Cv1.jpg" alt=" - " /></strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">100 bucks. Whoa bruah you paid way too much. I got some OEM's (I think through DEVEK) for $13 or $14 per set.
<img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="eek.gif" />
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Old Apr 12, 2003 | 03:41 PM
  #13  
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I drilled a hole in a cap that came with a tube of CV grease and attached the nozzle
that came with a tube of RTV. Made it easier to get grease deep in the joint.
<img src="http://www.flash.net/~ego/cvgrs.jpg" alt=" - " />
I got a tighter seal by using stainless steel "BandIt" clamps rather than the clamps
that came with the boot kits.
<img src="http://www.flash.net/~ego/bandit.jpg" alt=" - " />
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Old Apr 12, 2003 | 03:45 PM
  #14  
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From: Gilbert, AZ
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Caution:

Make sure you put the joint back together the same way it came apart. If you do not, you will cause the joint to lock up. Ask me how I know?.
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