Mike Frye

Two additional notes, while we're here:

Another way to test the idle speed and WOT switches is by using a timing light on your running engine. Check your manual for actual settings, I'm pretty sure these are the numbers for the '85-'86
When the car is idling properly and the idle switch is reset, it should be about 10 deg. BTDC (warm). If you manually advance the throttle so that the switch should trip, the timing should advance to about 13 deg.

When you advance the throttle to about 2/3 where the WOT should engage, you'll see the timing jump another 10 deg. to over 20 deg. If the whole system is working (and being read and used properly by the LH) you will see these changes. If you don't see these readings however, you should go in deeper to see if it's the switch, the wiring, or the brains as listed above.

Also for the TPS switch full of oil: There are O-rings in the sides of the throttle for the shaft the throttle plate sits on. These dry out over time and eventually turn to cracked pieces of fossilized plastic. The oil (and vacuum) leak past. If you are rebuilding your intake or have your throttle off, check for leaks and you may need to replace these O-rings. Check out this thread for more:
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ferrerid=45339

Landseer

Thanks to all before me who contributed to this thread.

Its exceptional. I must be missing 10 degrees of advance (EDIT: Retard, not advance) on heavy acceleration on the 32 valve cars.


With it, I have realized that the "WOT switch" is a misnomer. Its two completely independent switches in the same plastic case, idle switch and WOT switch.

The unit must be carefully positioned in a set of slotted screw mounts. It is positioned with the idle switch actuation in mind.

But the WOT part of the switch is completely separate. And although I can make this switch work with some throttle cable adjustment, it will only work with my acclerator nearly on the floor.

This thread "dialed-in" on a solder failure that appears to be design-based. It looks like its a time-based failure for the most part.


I think this explains the root cause of a sluggishness problem that I'm having with two cars. Perfect idle switching. But even going to the floor with the accelerator doesn't trigger my WOT switch on one car, and it just triggers it on the other car (at 95+% throttle, not 70%). The switch for the 85 car worked on the bench a few weeks ago, but there I was no-doubt over-rotating to make the contacts. Time to disassemble, inspect, and probably resolder these.

Wow. Thanks again to those that investigated and reported this in the past.

And thanks to PorKen who rigged up this little Blink'r light tool. Its a little plug-in test light that has been invented since this thread to test the WOT function on 85 and 86 cars only. Way Cool.

Maybe tomorrow I'll FINALLY get to experience the 32 V acceleration in all its glory.

dr bob

MANY cars are running around with throttles that don't open all the way with the pedal on the floor. Lots of performance is lost. Get a friend to push the pedal all the way down, and verify in the engine bay that the throttle is actually opening all the way. It may be poor adjustment, stretched cables, bent pedal bracket/arm.

When I see a post that says it only switches the WOT contacts right at pedal on the floor or not at all, My first action would be to verify that the pedal will actually open the throttle all the way.

Bill Ball

The WOT switch RETARDS timing and enrichens fuel mixture. Without it, my car overheats at very high speed, such as during open road races.

Landseer

Got it, thanks to both of you for the replies.