Lizard928

Well I recieved the bracket for the tensioner today and installed it all.

It took me about 1 hour to install, however it will take others longer as I dont have any of the covers back on the engine, nice thing with EDIS is not having to have them if I dont want them.

I did notice abit of deflection in the belt between the water pump roller and the PS camshaft, it might be worth it for some to switch to the early pump and have the roller bearing in there.

The one thing I am needing is the OD, both IDs and thickness of the thrust washer for the clutch.

TIA.

PorKen

Do you notice any difference in running? Quieter? I'm jonesin' for some feedback!

I think the flapping is more noticeable because the tensioner side of the belt is so flat = damping.

I don't think it is a problem, because the water pump pulley has sides. On the first versions of the bracket, the tensioner pulley was closer to the water pump, and would drive the idler all the time if left in place. I haven't tried it since, even though the pulley is now in basically the same spot as the factory pulley.

I haven't had a problem since the install, and I have removed both the water pump, and the crank idler pulleys.
...

A bit of a tangent, but I was trying to find something in the WSM today, and I noticed that in a few places, there is a warning about not turning the engine CCW. And not because of the Belleville washers in the tensioner.

Lizard928

I honestly didnt notice a huge noise difference, (cars too loud to notice anyways).

as to the referance in the WSM saying not to turn the engine backwards by the crank bolt, I cannot think of any reason other than putting abit too much stress on the tensioner roller, however I cannot see how it would hurt it. On the other hand if the tensioner is not tight enough it "could" cause the car to jump teeth on a camshaft, however as long as it is properly tensioned I would see no problem with the factory tensioner.

I have to admit I have turned the engine backwards about 1/3 of a turn and then turned it the proper way to line things up, I have never had any issues before.

PorKen

You probably can't tell if it's running smoother either, with the Megasquirt injection.

I don't think the belt can flap far enough to hit the water pump pulley post (pre-88 water pumps). If it did, it might just barely brush it. I can't see that it would be able to knock teeth off. (I don't see any evidence of touching on my '86.)



Oddly, I noticed that at very high rpm, the belt is almost flat for about 10mm, as it goes into the water pump pulley, coming from the 1-4 gear.

I have rotated the engine CCW many times in the course of testing, without issue.

Not having the crank pinch roller/idler is a pain if you are installing the tensioner without removing the balancer/belt. The belt easily pops off the crank gear once the tension is removed. In order to get it back on correctly, you have to rotate the crank CCW to engage the belt, then rotate forward to take up the slack between the crank and oil pump gears, then hold onto the belt with one hand, while installing the tensioner with the other!

Lizard928

The other question for you Ken,

there was no tensioner gasket it there, and I still see no need for one. Am I missing something with that though?

I can take a movie with the engine running and then post it up for you as well.

Lizard928

and your right about it running smoother as it idles way smoother with the MS.

PorKen

I thought I put a gasket in with the tensioner parts? It's not needed for operation, it's only used to protect the mounting surface, in case you ever want to put the factory tensioner back on.

So, you're saying it runs smoothly - in your driveway.

What are you doing with the clutch?

Lizard928

I cannot seem to locate a thrust washer, so I want the dimensions of it. And would rather not have to tear the one out of my car.

I did drive the car today, and it appears to be working just fine.

I am uploading a video of it running to youtube, but it will take awhile as it is 56 mb

Lizard928

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UtgVLLb86ao

PorKen

That's funky to see a 32V without all the covers - like my '81.

I think I've got some extra SS 'clamp rings', from the 32V'rs, here somewhere, if you want to replace the rotors.

Lizard928

that would be great, just throw them in with the next tensioner if you would

and I do need the light bypass on the next one too :P

Now I need to make a plate to replace the WP, with a bearing that can be replaced from the outside and go to an electric WP and my FOE services will be alot easier :P