INTAKE PAINT
#2
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1) you need to find out if it will hold up to the temps in the engine bay. it may not.
2) you'd have to use a primer that's compatible with it and the magnesium...
2) you'd have to use a primer that's compatible with it and the magnesium...
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It's a type of paint that originally was used to paint on boats, then they changed the chemical makeup to meet some of the EPA codes in America, and to paint highend automobiles. They have changed their chemical makeup four times if I am not mistaken due to the toxicitity (spelling) to the human body when it is in vapor form. The vapors would go through the breathing appratus, and damage the lungs. I know they have refined their paint not to do this any longer. Imron has always been one of the most durable paints on the market.
If, I am not incorrect I think Rolls Royce still use Imron in their factory paint jobs.
John D
If, I am not incorrect I think Rolls Royce still use Imron in their factory paint jobs.
John D
#6
I have used Imron among other auto paints on intakes and engine blocks in the past and had excellent results with no flaking or discoloration, I don't expect the mag. intake to be a problem as I've seen mag. wheels painted with the same. If you think about it, engine compartments are painted the same as the rest of the car and have no problem with the heat, even being sometimes inches from exhaust manifolds.
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FWIW-
Imron paint was initally designed for the Space Shuttle to combat the extreme temps encountered during vehicle re-entry. I would seriously doubt that the intake will exhibit temps in this range.
A quality primer properly sanded will permit Imron to adhere to it - however, keep in mind that imron is some NASTY stuff from a health perspective - be sure to follow the label precautions!
In as far as adherance to the magnesium Intake - ???
Good luck-
Imron paint was initally designed for the Space Shuttle to combat the extreme temps encountered during vehicle re-entry. I would seriously doubt that the intake will exhibit temps in this range.
A quality primer properly sanded will permit Imron to adhere to it - however, keep in mind that imron is some NASTY stuff from a health perspective - be sure to follow the label precautions!
In as far as adherance to the magnesium Intake - ???
Good luck-
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Imron is a very hard paint and can withstand temps in excess of 1000 dF.
The downside to being able to withstand the high temps is little, if any. forgiveness in maliability. Stone chips may or may no occur using Imron. From my experience, I have had 2 vehicles that were painted on the exterior with Imron. The last, my kids (okay, they were young, and it was a 4 wheel drive mudding truck) decided to wash the truck for me as a surprise. Unfortunately they used the best equivalent of dirty rock laced water to do so.
Not a scratch one on the paint. Even looking at various angles I could not detect any damage. However, high speed impact of an object may not be as forgiving. Imron paint is VERY hard and very temperature resistant. But, on the other hand, because it is hard, it is also very brittle.
hth-
The downside to being able to withstand the high temps is little, if any. forgiveness in maliability. Stone chips may or may no occur using Imron. From my experience, I have had 2 vehicles that were painted on the exterior with Imron. The last, my kids (okay, they were young, and it was a 4 wheel drive mudding truck) decided to wash the truck for me as a surprise. Unfortunately they used the best equivalent of dirty rock laced water to do so.
Not a scratch one on the paint. Even looking at various angles I could not detect any damage. However, high speed impact of an object may not be as forgiving. Imron paint is VERY hard and very temperature resistant. But, on the other hand, because it is hard, it is also very brittle.
hth-
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I had an E-type painted with Imron back in the early 80's and found that "defect" repair was the challenge. Applied Imron does not chemically meld with the underlaying layer so any "touch-up" consists of preparinging the panel and reshooting it as a whole. It was a strong and durable product that maintained it's gloss for a long time. This was particularly useful for "red", which was a challenge with the old emamels and laquers.
With the current base/clear technology, I cannot see why anybody would use anything used as a daily driver. For a trailer-queen show car, there is still little that looks better than a multi-layer, hand rubbed laquer paint job...... but it sure ain't for the road!!
As for the intake, and other engine parts, powder coating is relativly cheap and by far the most durable "paint" for that environment.
With the current base/clear technology, I cannot see why anybody would use anything used as a daily driver. For a trailer-queen show car, there is still little that looks better than a multi-layer, hand rubbed laquer paint job...... but it sure ain't for the road!!
As for the intake, and other engine parts, powder coating is relativly cheap and by far the most durable "paint" for that environment.
#14
I agree with powder coating - great finish and super durable. The intake won't get much hotter than 230 ish DegF.
I used a base/clear. Looked great but hot oil just peels it like paint remover.
<a href="http://www.jageng.com/images/myenginedone03_00.jpg" target="_blank">http://www.jageng.com/images/myenginedone03_00.jpg</a>
<img src ="http://www.jageng.com/images/myenginedone03_00.jpg">
I used a base/clear. Looked great but hot oil just peels it like paint remover.
<a href="http://www.jageng.com/images/myenginedone03_00.jpg" target="_blank">http://www.jageng.com/images/myenginedone03_00.jpg</a>
<img src ="http://www.jageng.com/images/myenginedone03_00.jpg">
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Imron is polyurethane paint that requires a catalyst, as with all urethane an air supplied respirator is a must. I used it on two boats; it is stronger than lacquer and enamel also last longer. <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />