Big Dave

Are there are audible symptoms that would indicate:

1) Wheel bearings need to be repacked/tightend; or

2) There is a problem with the power steering such as low fluid/leak?

If my power steering was leaking, what color would it be?

Thanks!

Dave

bad S4

Big Dave,
I can answer the visible steering rack issues as I have recently gone through them.
On Bad S4 the steering rack itself was OK but
the rack seals shrank and dry rotted from age and non-use...27K Miles..Had to replace whole rack.Big $$$$$
The leaking fluid collects in the
boots and will spill out when the boots are inspected.Power steering fluid is actually ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid)...Dextron II or III recommended by Porsche is RED in color.Also check the reservois,hoses and clamps if the indication is that you are losing fluid.
It will collect on the Belly Pan.
Hope this helps.
PS Thanks for those great photos.

Bad S4
87 S4
Blk/Blk/5-Speed
27K Miles

Incendier

Dave:

Can't speak to the bearings, but I just replaced my steering rack. Symptoms were a slow leak and a noisy rack (whine & crunch) when turning the wheel to full lock. Oh, and then the most obvious sign was when the boots exploded from fluid through the leaking seals.

1. The fluid is not - or should not be - power steering fluid, but automatic transmission fluid.

2. The leaks can easily be checked from underneath - check the hoses to/from the tank (one to the pump), the lines/banjo bolts to/from the steering rack, and the boots. Grab the boots and squeeze 'em gently; if you feel a lot of fluid sloshing around, you're on borrowed time. A little fluid, I'm told, is not a cause for immediate alarm.

3. Replacing the rack is not hard, but time consuming and very messy.

4. Don't test the boots while standing under the car, unless lather-rinse-repeat is your favorite thing. Ask me how I know.

James

(oops...a lot of this is repeating what BS4 just said...our posts crossed in the e-stream)

Big Dave

Uh oh.

While working on my shark this weekend I took a peek under the front end to look at the spoiler. I noticed that the left front underside had some twisted metal next to the tire. It looks like the PO bottomed it out or went over a curb. The accordian-like rubber component next to the wheel (which I imagine is the steering boot) was worn away. I could reach up into it and felt that whatever was inside there was oily.

The twisted metal appears to only be a sheet metal cover for the underside. I was able to easily bend it back into place so that it wasn't so close to the ground.

Am I in trouble????? I don't notice anything more than a speck of oil each day (the size of a dime) on the floor, but I do think I hear some whining which is either the breaks squealing or the power steering.

I'm not sure what to do.

Help!

If I AM in trouble, please estimate my repair bill if I can find used parts. Ugh.

Big Dave

thomhross:

How much did your steering rack replacement cost you using the rebuilt unit? I do notice some squealing, but is it possible that I won't have to replace the rack? (crossing fingers).

Dave

Incendier

Dave -

Got mine rebuilt for $395.00 from 928 Int'l. Used rack is $250 or so...without a warranty.

BTW, check out 928 Specialists tips page - they have the factory authorized rack testing procedure out there. It's not great, but it's a start.

And Thom is absolutely right about the boots.

FWIW, I replaced the tie rod ends at the same time, to make sure everything was fresh. Made a big difference - the bushings were losing their tasty jelly filling.

James

Big Dave

Snowball:

Thanks for the instructions, but they're waaayy over my head. I'm going to have to take my shark into my P-wrench (not a dealer) for a look. The PO put $4000 into the car 10K miles ago, but I can't read the writing on the receipt to determine which parts have already been replaced (during the 60K mile service which occurred at 68K miles). I'll have to see the original receipt that the P-wrench has (same one I use). I hope some of this stuff has already been done. I suspect it has since the PO seemed obsessive about maintenance (oil changes every 3 mos, even with only 3000 miles per year).

I've got 78K miles on it now, hoping to get at least 100K more. I'm still to new to the whole car maintenance concept to take on such a huge task.

I have tackled electrical issues, but actual mechanical things are too risky for me yet.

I feel pretty comfortable with the P-wrench since he's been (I hope) honest that my shark doesn't need any other typical work such as motor mounts, brakes, etc.

Heck, I might as well ask:

Does anyone know of an affordable, good P-wrench in the Detroit area? I'm already aware of German Motors in Troy, but I'm willing to listen to suggestions.

Thanks!

Incendier

Thom:

ATF recommendation (generally) is in the manual, if I'm not mistaken.

Yup, tank feeds the rack (pump + return line)

Now ya got me thinkin'...I didn't actively flush it when I replaced the rack...dammit. I was so happy to be done with the job. Better start saving for the next rack.

Still like to know how to flush the system. Anyone?

Thom1

Thanks James,

...but there has to be a synthetic oil or grease for everything, right? The manual doesn't cover that. Maybe there is a Mobil1 site.

How do I flush this elusive new synthetic through the rack?

Incendier

Sorry, Thom...I edited that post and you were too quick for me.

Lookin' at Mobil1, I guess I'd feel ok giving it a whack. (as he falls prey to inflated product claims)

Is there a guru in the house?

John Struthers

Snow,
You wretch!
I was crunching numbers and of all the damned things you actually gave a realistic estimate. I was hoping...I guess...for something on the lower side.
I tried to shave a little by pricing the complete tie rod assembly tossed in cv and axle boots and came up with $894.00! Did you do all of this, already? God, I love the way Pattycakes handles so I guess thats the price I'll, eventually, have to pay. Do you have the upgraded steel ball joints and eccentrics or are you still running the aluminum units? How's the Great White running? Have you, or, anyone else for that matter, tried or seen that digital camber gage and stand alone attachment. If it works the $310.00 or so wouldn't seem like such a bad deal.
Later,
Keep em' rolling.
John S. & 'Pcakes'

Tails

Big dave,
Audible symptoms for wheel bearings:

Jack front wheel/s off the grounand and check for bearing play by gripping wheel at 9 & 12 o'clock and check for side to side play.

Rotate wheel and check for clicking sound or "grumbling" noise from bearing which could indicate start of bearing failure.

Tightening procedure already given.

Tails 1990 S4

John Struthers

Snow,
My price was all catalog without tax and shipping.
SO...

If you priced out at the dealer you did just fine.
Mine are steel... Could be Stock or PO, unsure. I still like the idea of the 'whole' tie-rod assy. I'm going to start stocking parts for projected repairs so I won't go into suicidal depression if it sneaks up on me.
Thanks for the info.
John S. & Pattycakes

Big Dave

Well, I crawled under the front end last night and noticed that the tubing (approx. 3" diameter") running near the bumper toward the left front wheel is chewed up so that what's inside it is exposed. It's got red fluid on it so I know it must be power steering fluid, but it doesn't seems to be a big leak. In case I didn't describe it enough, it's a fairly long flexible tube that has a wire coil to keep its shape.

What is this tube, and how can I find a replacement for it?

As I said earlier, I hear some squealing when I turn the wheels, but no clicking or popping....I can't tell if it's the steering or the brakes.

I now know that my front tires have some play.

How hard is it to repack the wheel bearings (assume I wouldn't know where to start)?

Incendier

Dave,

That sounds like the alternator cooling/vent hose. No PS lines are that big.

If you need to replace it - and having just replaced an alternator because mine was missing, I would recommend it - the big 3 have 'em for ~$50.