car was running fine thn, just died
#1
car was running fine thn, just died
1986.5 was running fine then just died. I pulled the plug and plug was black.checked coils,getting spark.checked fuel injectors,working.checked the injector sensor switch, semms as if it was not getting the oms,the manual called for.Q; could this switch cause the car not to start?I pulled the computer but im inclined to believe that should not be the problem.aTLEAST i HOPE NOT <img src="graemlins/drink.gif" border="0" alt="[cherrsagai]" />
#4
Rennlist Member
Angelo,
If it was running very rich and died, check temp sensor 2, if it's open circuit (a favorite failure mode) then the car will run v. rich.
An LH brain fault can cause much the same symptom as already said.
A dead MAF can also do the same. try pulling the 6 way connector off the MAF, if the car starts and runs at all, when it won't with it connected, then the MAF is faulty.
If it was running very rich and died, check temp sensor 2, if it's open circuit (a favorite failure mode) then the car will run v. rich.
An LH brain fault can cause much the same symptom as already said.
A dead MAF can also do the same. try pulling the 6 way connector off the MAF, if the car starts and runs at all, when it won't with it connected, then the MAF is faulty.
#5
Nordschleife Master
I have one scary suggestion.
When was the last time you changed the t-belt and water pump?
If it was recent, did you change the idlers, or the oil pump pully?
If any of the above broke, then your t-belt would have gotten toasted realy quick, and then well, we don't want to think about that.
Since the dammage would already be done, the easyest way to check that I know is to pull the intake tubes, and look down the small holes on the t-belt cover. If there's a metal teeth, rather than a rubber belt theres your problem.
Next thing to check is to get a white out pen, and put a mark on the belt. Sicne if there is dammage, it's already done, hit the starter for a moment. If the mark is gone, then you should be OK. If the mark didn't move, then somethings wrong with the t-belt.
Unforchantly, since you've got the 32v engine, your looking at like $7,000+ for the valves, lifters, and such to be replaced, assumeing no other major dammage. Yuck.
My car was running fine too, and then it just died. I'm paranoid, so the t-belt was the first thing I checked, I'd striped the teeth. Since I've got the 16v engine, and no build up, I got lucky, and didn't need a valve job.
I'm hopeing that this isn't your problem.
When was the last time you changed the t-belt and water pump?
If it was recent, did you change the idlers, or the oil pump pully?
If any of the above broke, then your t-belt would have gotten toasted realy quick, and then well, we don't want to think about that.
Since the dammage would already be done, the easyest way to check that I know is to pull the intake tubes, and look down the small holes on the t-belt cover. If there's a metal teeth, rather than a rubber belt theres your problem.
Next thing to check is to get a white out pen, and put a mark on the belt. Sicne if there is dammage, it's already done, hit the starter for a moment. If the mark is gone, then you should be OK. If the mark didn't move, then somethings wrong with the t-belt.
Unforchantly, since you've got the 32v engine, your looking at like $7,000+ for the valves, lifters, and such to be replaced, assumeing no other major dammage. Yuck.
My car was running fine too, and then it just died. I'm paranoid, so the t-belt was the first thing I checked, I'd striped the teeth. Since I've got the 16v engine, and no build up, I got lucky, and didn't need a valve job.
I'm hopeing that this isn't your problem.