Aluminium repair method ....
07-10-2007, 10:13 AM
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Aluminium repair method ....
.... shows some potential in this link with embedded video : one of the guys posted this on the 993 board.
I've not hear of this product previously, but can think of a few snapped aluminium ears or stripped threads on cars that show up where this may be worth a try to save the day.
I've not hear of this product previously, but can think of a few snapped aluminium ears or stripped threads on cars that show up where this may be worth a try to save the day.
07-10-2007, 10:53 AM
#2
Rennlist Member
Being on dial up I did not look at the video. I have used a product called alumiweld on our r/c cars in which the blocks were broken (holes actually) It worked very well until the car was run over by a 4 x 4.
07-11-2007, 04:59 AM
#4
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 1,526
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Alladin makes a 3 in 1 rod that is more consistent. They sell wholesale to others for relabeling, but you will pay a heafty mark up. You can order directly from Alladin and save some money. the rods come in several sizes to get a good mix.
Alladin also makes a aluminum solder that works at a lower temperature (iI think around 550) and requires flux - which they sell. The aluminum solder works at a lower temperature and has almost the same strength.
The problem with any aluminum welding to the critical temperature. Too hot and there is no aluminum left to weld. I used Alladin's 3 in 1 rod to patch the trim holes on a fender. You have to do this on a level surface. There is no welding aluminum on the vertical unless you are very quick and very lucky. I have seen it done by the Tinman - Kent White in a video but there is no way I can duplicate his results.
Kent White sells how to videos for aluminum gas welding. I purchased his set up - aluminum welding wire and flux, but it takes time to really get the hang of the technique. On occassion I was able to get a good weld on a fender crack. Other times I was looking at a very big hole to fill or found the crack chasing the torch.
The best bet is to get some welding crayons. They change color at certain tempertures. Get a few at 750, 740 and 790. The 3 in 1 rod goes on at 768 I think. So start work when the 750 changes color and pull up the tourch when you see 790. I found holding the torch horizontal the best approach to getting the correct temperature. Alos preheating a big area with a wet towel outside the weld area worked well for me. I also tried using some copper for a backing with marginal results. When right things go very fast. There is no second chance like with steel gas welding where you can go back and touch up your welds.
On the fenders and doors which are thin I found it was best to just lunp on some extra rod and then grind it down. When finished I was able to get away with no plastic filler.
Fun stuff that you can spend some time on if you have nothing else to do.
Dan the Pod Guy who cannot weld aluminum for crap.
Alladin also makes a aluminum solder that works at a lower temperature (iI think around 550) and requires flux - which they sell. The aluminum solder works at a lower temperature and has almost the same strength.
The problem with any aluminum welding to the critical temperature. Too hot and there is no aluminum left to weld. I used Alladin's 3 in 1 rod to patch the trim holes on a fender. You have to do this on a level surface. There is no welding aluminum on the vertical unless you are very quick and very lucky. I have seen it done by the Tinman - Kent White in a video but there is no way I can duplicate his results.
Kent White sells how to videos for aluminum gas welding. I purchased his set up - aluminum welding wire and flux, but it takes time to really get the hang of the technique. On occassion I was able to get a good weld on a fender crack. Other times I was looking at a very big hole to fill or found the crack chasing the torch.
The best bet is to get some welding crayons. They change color at certain tempertures. Get a few at 750, 740 and 790. The 3 in 1 rod goes on at 768 I think. So start work when the 750 changes color and pull up the tourch when you see 790. I found holding the torch horizontal the best approach to getting the correct temperature. Alos preheating a big area with a wet towel outside the weld area worked well for me. I also tried using some copper for a backing with marginal results. When right things go very fast. There is no second chance like with steel gas welding where you can go back and touch up your welds.
On the fenders and doors which are thin I found it was best to just lunp on some extra rod and then grind it down. When finished I was able to get away with no plastic filler.
Fun stuff that you can spend some time on if you have nothing else to do.
Dan the Pod Guy who cannot weld aluminum for crap.
07-11-2007, 08:34 AM
#5
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Anybody tried this stuff
http://www.durafix.co.nz/index.php
I've been tempted - I have a fender that could do with some repair and am reasonably handy at Arc and Mig and Gas welding steel - it can't be that difficult ?
http://www.durafix.co.nz/index.php
I've been tempted - I have a fender that could do with some repair and am reasonably handy at Arc and Mig and Gas welding steel - it can't be that difficult ?
07-14-2007, 09:44 PM
#6
Drifting
HFT has this fluxless product on sale now for the "dollar days" sale. Package of rods is sale priced $9, from reg $13.
http://www.alumiweld.com/h2uaw.html
Fix those broken radiator tabs.
Shot at 2007-07-14
http://www.alumiweld.com/h2uaw.html
Fix those broken radiator tabs.
Shot at 2007-07-14
