HELP Initial position of front aligment eccentrics
07-08-2007, 08:03 PM
#1
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HELP Initial position of front aligment eccentrics
Yeah I know...shoulda marked them or taken a bloody picture! 
Does anyone have an Idea of an initial postion for the two "eccentric" washers on an early 86 front suspension? They are item 6 in PET 928-86-4-01-401-01 and items 13 & 14 on pg 40-2 of the Morehouse WSM.
TIA
KK
Does anyone have an Idea of an initial postion for the two "eccentric" washers on an early 86 front suspension? They are item 6 in PET 928-86-4-01-401-01 and items 13 & 14 on pg 40-2 of the Morehouse WSM.
TIA
KK
07-08-2007, 08:25 PM
#2
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Apart from getting the wheels as close to vertical as possible at normal ride height (with a level across the rim lips), not much you can do here, until you get the hieght settled and an alignment done.
jp 83 Euro S AT 50k
jp 83 Euro S AT 50k
07-08-2007, 09:31 PM
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But there must be some initial position for theses little dudes before I take it in for an alignment. Besides, the tires are still on the wheels, so there is not much chance of putting a level across the rims (unless I use my light saber, hmmm, maybe.)
I have seen someone else posting about a section in the WSM that explains alignment, but I can't find it!
TIA
Darth Knemo
I have seen someone else posting about a section in the WSM that explains alignment, but I can't find it!
TIA
Darth Knemo
Last edited by kaptnknemo; 07-08-2007 at 09:34 PM. Reason: spelling
07-09-2007, 12:36 AM
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No initial position. If there was it would always be the correct position and hence no need for adjusters.
Best bet is to start with them in the middle of the adjustment range - just put them in and wind them around - you'll see the effect they have on the bottom ball joint and can then judge where the middle of the range is.
Best bet is to start with them in the middle of the adjustment range - just put them in and wind them around - you'll see the effect they have on the bottom ball joint and can then judge where the middle of the range is.
07-09-2007, 05:02 AM
#5
Drifting
I recommend that you adjust the castor eccentric so that the wheel is as far forward as possible. This should serve as an initial adjustment.
Carls site is a great help too:
http://members.rennlist.com/captearlg/
Carls site is a great help too:
http://members.rennlist.com/captearlg/
07-09-2007, 09:59 PM
#6
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Earl Gilstrom's website is a great introduction to 928 alignment. Unfortunately there is no single-bullet solution to your situation.
To start off, I'd follow Jon's recommendation to push the lower balljoint as far forward as possible to get maximum available caster. This will make the car most likely to self-center the steering wheel after a turn.
Next I'd adjust the camber eccentrics until you can use a common carpenter's level on the wheel to measure camber. Adjust the camber eccentric so that there is about 5/32" between the top of a vertical level placed against the face of the wheel on each side. Only after those are good should you even attempt to set the toe-in.
To start off, I'd follow Jon's recommendation to push the lower balljoint as far forward as possible to get maximum available caster. This will make the car most likely to self-center the steering wheel after a turn.
Next I'd adjust the camber eccentrics until you can use a common carpenter's level on the wheel to measure camber. Adjust the camber eccentric so that there is about 5/32" between the top of a vertical level placed against the face of the wheel on each side. Only after those are good should you even attempt to set the toe-in.
