Removing windshield frame
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Tomorrow I’m having my windshield replaced. The guy who’s going to do it said he also had to order a new windshield frame set for about 170 dollars/euros, because it was sure to break/damage when taking it off. I told him I would do it myself. Has anyone seen or does anyone know how to remove the frame? Any tips on tools?
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I replaced the two trim pieces on the A pillar of my first 928, and can confirm that it is very easy to damage them in the process. These pieces hold on so tight, that by the time you get them off they are bent or scratched. US$ 170 for all five pieces does not sound out of line - I remember that the long piece I replaced was over US$40 at the time.
Best of luck! It will look nicer with the new trim!
Best of luck! It will look nicer with the new trim!
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Andre,
It is possible, but as Nicole correctly said not easy
Use a wooden putty knife, work carefully, i.e. find the places for the fasteners and use the knife close to these – Align the trim peaces and paint them with good quality spray can, and you can get an excellent result – I did it
After mounting, check if the trim pieces is vibrating like a violin sting when you touch them, if yes, you can make them 'dead' by filling some window-mastic behind them – This for preventing wind noise
It is possible, but as Nicole correctly said not easy
Use a wooden putty knife, work carefully, i.e. find the places for the fasteners and use the knife close to these – Align the trim peaces and paint them with good quality spray can, and you can get an excellent result – I did it
After mounting, check if the trim pieces is vibrating like a violin sting when you touch them, if yes, you can make them 'dead' by filling some window-mastic behind them – This for preventing wind noise
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I've pulled these a couple of times and can add a few tips; I used a small piece of (1'x1/2"x6") hardwood scrap with the end cut at a slight angle and a small hammer (or light touch).
Start at either end and lightly tap it off a little at a time, working up and down the trim piece, tap it off in this manner until it falls off on it's own or you can pull it off with no effort. If the trim binds up and you pull on it before it's really loose it will kink.
For repainting; I and other list members have used SEM trim paint, it comes in several levels of gloss to flat so you should be able to match it to orig. I used the satin black which is duller than the factory trim but I did all of mine and like the look.
You'll probably have to go to an auto paint supply house to find the SEM paint, but it will be worth it as the stuff sprays on very easy and wet then dries to a very thin,hard and durable finish. I think I used 4 coats on all my pieces and they look like a factory job,not like spray paint.
Start at either end and lightly tap it off a little at a time, working up and down the trim piece, tap it off in this manner until it falls off on it's own or you can pull it off with no effort. If the trim binds up and you pull on it before it's really loose it will kink.
For repainting; I and other list members have used SEM trim paint, it comes in several levels of gloss to flat so you should be able to match it to orig. I used the satin black which is duller than the factory trim but I did all of mine and like the look.
You'll probably have to go to an auto paint supply house to find the SEM paint, but it will be worth it as the stuff sprays on very easy and wet then dries to a very thin,hard and durable finish. I think I used 4 coats on all my pieces and they look like a factory job,not like spray paint.
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Thanks for the info,
Jim, you say "start on either side" You mean left or right? I see overlap-piece overlapping side fram and the top frame. Is that the place to begin?
I thought you could pretty easily slide the frame out, but they are connected on severall spots?
How far are these spots apart approx. and how deep does the frame go into the rubber?
I don't want to screw this up, or else I have to drive home without a windshield.
Jim, you say "start on either side" You mean left or right? I see overlap-piece overlapping side fram and the top frame. Is that the place to begin?
I thought you could pretty easily slide the frame out, but they are connected on severall spots?
How far are these spots apart approx. and how deep does the frame go into the rubber?
I don't want to screw this up, or else I have to drive home without a windshield.
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KBlair,
No the rear side window trims are more tricky - You can remove them but you cannot (or hardly not) install them again without you take the window out.
But, on many 928 that's a good and needed job because many rear side windows on 928 are leaking
No the rear side window trims are more tricky - You can remove them but you cannot (or hardly not) install them again without you take the window out.
But, on many 928 that's a good and needed job because many rear side windows on 928 are leaking
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It's been a while since I've done this so I went out and looked at the car; and if you have the factory manual reference volume "V" page 64-3.
One thing you'll need to be very carefull of is chipping the paint on that big piece of trim that runs from the W/S base to the hatch; this is why hardwood tools.
First you'll need to move the 2 trim clips that cover the gap between the top molding and the side moldings; I always put a bit of oil on them and slide them onto the molding, or you could pop them off by sliding a small screwdriver under the outer edge; if the clips get bent they are cheap and available.
The side trim is mounted on an inverted "L"; no screws just a couple plastic buffers. Think of these as being "crimped" on. What you'll do is with you wooden tool and a light touch,gently tap each trim piece toward the center of the W/S working top to bottom and back as many times as needed. Just a little movement at a time is fine, better to take a long time doing it that kinking the trim. As you work these off you'll see them moving in, just resist tugging them off until they come with little or no effort.
The upper trim uses typical spring clips to hold it.
On the upper W/S trim the manual shows them tapping a wooden wedge under while pulling it away from the W/S. I made a tool: Using a narrow thin putty knife cut a "V" notch on the SIDE at the tip on one side with a triangular file this will give a small sharp point; again on the side.
Starting from either side, slide this tool between the W/S and trim and catch each clip; pull down on the tool while pulling the trim piece away from the W/S and GENTLY twisting it.
This will unhook the clips, best to do 1/2 at a time working from the outsides in.
Be very careful of your paint while doing all this, you might even want to put a few strips of tape down to avaiod scratching or chipping.
When they install the new glass be sure that they absolutely understand that depth has to be correct or else the trim will never install correctly. It should be a nice smooth sweep; if the glass is high or low you'll have a ridge or divot where the top trim meets the sides.
Forgot cowling at the base: Pull the wiper arms and remove the rear-most fender mount bolt (hood open) as well as the small screw you'll find under each side trim.
Re-assemble is opposite just work slow and gentle.
One thing you'll need to be very carefull of is chipping the paint on that big piece of trim that runs from the W/S base to the hatch; this is why hardwood tools.
First you'll need to move the 2 trim clips that cover the gap between the top molding and the side moldings; I always put a bit of oil on them and slide them onto the molding, or you could pop them off by sliding a small screwdriver under the outer edge; if the clips get bent they are cheap and available.
The side trim is mounted on an inverted "L"; no screws just a couple plastic buffers. Think of these as being "crimped" on. What you'll do is with you wooden tool and a light touch,gently tap each trim piece toward the center of the W/S working top to bottom and back as many times as needed. Just a little movement at a time is fine, better to take a long time doing it that kinking the trim. As you work these off you'll see them moving in, just resist tugging them off until they come with little or no effort.
The upper trim uses typical spring clips to hold it.
On the upper W/S trim the manual shows them tapping a wooden wedge under while pulling it away from the W/S. I made a tool: Using a narrow thin putty knife cut a "V" notch on the SIDE at the tip on one side with a triangular file this will give a small sharp point; again on the side.
Starting from either side, slide this tool between the W/S and trim and catch each clip; pull down on the tool while pulling the trim piece away from the W/S and GENTLY twisting it.
This will unhook the clips, best to do 1/2 at a time working from the outsides in.
Be very careful of your paint while doing all this, you might even want to put a few strips of tape down to avaiod scratching or chipping.
When they install the new glass be sure that they absolutely understand that depth has to be correct or else the trim will never install correctly. It should be a nice smooth sweep; if the glass is high or low you'll have a ridge or divot where the top trim meets the sides.
Forgot cowling at the base: Pull the wiper arms and remove the rear-most fender mount bolt (hood open) as well as the small screw you'll find under each side trim.
Re-assemble is opposite just work slow and gentle.
#9
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Thanks Jim,
I got the new windshield. Taking the frame out wasn’t to hard. It just took some patience and tools. The glass repair guy had some sort of fork, with which I could wedge the top frame out. A bent, blunt chisel would do nicely to. Just carefully stick it under the frame and start wedging from clip to clip. But I have to say that doing this on a broken shield is easier than one that has to stay in one piece. I did not chip it or anything, but it took me a lot less sweat drops.
Luckily I was there. The guy started yanking the side frame the wrong way. That is another thing actually. If you want to have it done 100% and carefully, you got to do it yourselves, when it comes to working on the car. He was already taking the window out when I had not yet removed the leather pads from the A pillar. With the cutting wire he managed to get some cuts into the leather, which stay in sight. I took that one home and put some coloured shoe polish on that. Anyway it was a fairly good job and it was a nice experience to help with putting the new windshield in.
I got the new windshield. Taking the frame out wasn’t to hard. It just took some patience and tools. The glass repair guy had some sort of fork, with which I could wedge the top frame out. A bent, blunt chisel would do nicely to. Just carefully stick it under the frame and start wedging from clip to clip. But I have to say that doing this on a broken shield is easier than one that has to stay in one piece. I did not chip it or anything, but it took me a lot less sweat drops.
Luckily I was there. The guy started yanking the side frame the wrong way. That is another thing actually. If you want to have it done 100% and carefully, you got to do it yourselves, when it comes to working on the car. He was already taking the window out when I had not yet removed the leather pads from the A pillar. With the cutting wire he managed to get some cuts into the leather, which stay in sight. I took that one home and put some coloured shoe polish on that. Anyway it was a fairly good job and it was a nice experience to help with putting the new windshield in.