Barry.B

I do have a multi-meter, but am not sure which wire is which from motor to fuse panel, but I also realize it is perfectly correct for some circuits to be NO while at the same time some are NC, and I don't know which is which, so that may not be helpful either.

The car doesn't appear to have ever been hit, but body parts HAVE been changed, so anything from a chafed wire to a mis-wiring at a connector could have occurred.

Did you rotate the **** in the same direction as when they came up? If you did then I think the pods should have gone down and then come back up. If they didn't go down first and just raised, then the motor had to spin backwards to go back up without going down.

The motor spins clock-wise, correct??
It appears to, but I'm one guy watching a little **** from back by the driver's door. :-(
So yes, the motor would have HAD to spin backwards for what occurred to have occurred.
There may be clue to someone on that one, but I have no idea....

Thanks, you guys ARE helping me, it just gets SO frustrating....

Barry

Dave H.

as long as your can read the little numbers on the plugs, we'll talk you down...

frustrating? nah, this is where it gets fun!

how is the motor wired right now?

Barry.B

Hi Dave;
I went and double-checked everything.
I realized I had the white/black wire STILL on #1, and had actually adjusted the pivot arm 180 degrees to accomodate the wiring system.....

So, I corrected it to:
1- Brown/Red
2- White/Black
3- Yellow/Green
4- Red/Black
and then moved the motor arm to the correct position.
In addition, in dbl-chkg the motor rotation, it is COUNTER-clock-wise.
So, here's where we are:

Go to the head light motor and rotate the manual **** in the same direction as when the lights come up. Keep rotating the **** until either, the motor spins the **** out of your hand to the down position, or you get about 2/3 of the way down manually. Let us know which of the two happened.
As I'm rotating the ****, nothing happens.
When I get the pods 2/3rds down and then turn the lights back on, the pods continue on down to complete the cycle, then come up, and then turn on.
Hope that clarifies.
Thanks, Barry

Barry.B

My take on this is that everything is wired correctly, EXCEPT the circuit to the relay that tells it to "close" the "pod down" circuit.
That "pod down" circuit seems to work, it just never gets closed at the relay.
Any ideas on where THAT signal originates, and which wire it might be??

Dave H.

i just had to know for sure where youhad the wires, the diagram isn't labeled 1-4. hang on...

Dave H.

with the key removed...

check continuity on these wires (should be 1 Ohm or less):

relay socket pin 30bM to pin 1 on motor
relay socket pin 56 to pin 2 on motor
relay socket pin 86M to pin 3 on motor
relay socket pin 30M to pin 4 on motor
relay socket pin 31 to ground
headlight motor case to ground.

check for DC voltage (should be more than 12VDC):

relay socket pin 30 has battery voltage
relay socket pin 30a has battery voltage
relay socket pin 30b has battery voltage

Barry.B

Wow!! Thank YOU, Dave.
We have something now.
Here we go:

relay socket pin 30bM to pin 1 on motor
(circuit OPEN)
relay socket pin 56 to pin 2 on motor (0 ohms)
relay socket pin 86M to pin 3 on motor (0 ohms)
relay socket pin 30M to pin 4 on motor (0 ohms)
relay socket pin 31 to ground (0 ohms)
headlight motor case to ground. (2 ohms)

check for DC voltage (should be more than 12VDC):

relay socket pin 30 has battery voltage (12.80v)
relay socket pin 30a has battery voltage (12.86v)
relay socket pin 30b has battery voltage (12.87v)

So, unless this was just step one, my problem looks like the brown/red wire (pin 1) not completing the circuit from the relay up to the motor.
This would ALMOST be easy to track except EVERY wire behind the fuse panel is grey!!!
What was Porsche THINKING?!?!?! :-(
Anyway, that wiring lookup is HUGE!!!
THANK YOU Dave!!! I REALLY appreciate it.
Barry

Barry.B

Just an update:
I just "jumpered" the brown/red wire from the relay all the way to the headlight motor.
Works like a CHAMP!!! <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />
NOW, all I have to do is trace the brown/red wire and see where the break might be.
Anybody know of a few easy places to check the wire-run, motor to relay??

Dave H.

didn't you say earlier that it worked once when you pushed on the relay? i'd be looking real close at that 30bM terminal. you might need to remove it from the socket and crimp it a little so it gets a better grip on the relay pin...

Barry.B

Hi Dave;
Yes, if you manually closed a relay, the pods would lower.
So my thinking is that the wire that gives the relay the signal to close is not working.
I think we have determined it to be the brown/red wire coming from the motor. There is also a brown/red wire going to the headlight switch, and my thought was they are the same wire.
I just tested that circuit, and there is a break in that wire circuit. Are there any accessible connectors to check in that circuit, or should I just run a new wire from the motor to the switch??

I don't think a bad connection at the 30bM socket is the problem, because I am SURE that I had a good connection when it was determined to be an open circuit.

Is my thinking incorrect??

Thanks,
Barry

Dave H.

the Brown/Red from the switch is the down wire, which you already know is good since you have 12v at the 30b relay pin. this wire has power always, so the lights are always being held in the down position. it only loses power when your turn the lights on. you can double-check it if you like. the 12v at relay 30b should go to near 0 when your turn on the light switch and come back when turned off, all with no key.

the Brown/Red wires are color coded for the same function, but they're not connected.

the open 30bM wire - the only break point is where it comes out of the relay panel at position N8. i haven't seen the back of a relay panel, so you're on your own locating that. you'll need to find this and make sure is has good contact with the panel's internal grey wire from the 30bM pin. if you think it looks good, use your meter and without disconnecting anything, check from N8 to the motor pin 1 and from N8 to relay socket pin 30bM. that'll tell you which side of the circuit is open...

[quote]Originally posted by Barry.B:
<strong>I think we have determined it to be the brown/red wire coming from the motor. There is also a brown/red wire going to the headlight switch, and my thought was they are the same wire.
I just tested that circuit, and there is a break in that wire circuit. Are there any accessible connectors to check in that circuit, or should I just run a new wire from the motor to the switch??

I don't think a bad connection at the 30bM socket is the problem, because I am SURE that I had a good connection when it was determined to be an open circuit.
</strong><hr></blockquote>

Barry.B

Found it!!!
The problem WASN'T anywhere NEAR the motor OR the fuse panel.....
Apparently, a former owner, in looking for a wire under the hood for something else, cut into a few of the wiring runs. He had to cut through the black plastic tubing to find the right wire, and apparently he cut into the one with the headlight wires too.....
Anyway, he must have kept on looking, because nothing was "modified", but he "nicked" the brown/red wire.
He probably never thought a thing about it, because he didn't break the connection.
Anybody know how long it takes a copper wire to corrode to the point of breaking the circuit??
Me neither, but thats what happened....
Spliced a wire in just a few minutes ago, and up-down-up-down-up-down-up-down..... :-)

I owe you one, Dave. <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />
I never would have found it without your wiring checklist, or your patience.
Thank you.

Barry

Dave H.

that's what we're all here for.

one more thing to cross off the list...