Carl Fausett

Sorry. Lost in translation. Sleeve. Liner. They never seem to mean the same thing twice. I have no experience with wet-wall sleeves. My experience is with thin and thick dry-wall liners.

Pretty intake Louie. More importantly since this is Tim's thread... Helluva good Job there Tim!

IcemanG17

Okay so the million $$$ ??? is when it Todd going to post dyno sheets of the 7.0L 15psi sleeved block motor.....

Jim R.

Brian, you know I can't answer that one.

Thanks for all the compliments guys, it was nice to have a thread with SC's not go down the toilet.

Now on to the rest of finishing it up. The 044 Bosch pump just got here, and the fittings should be here soon. The other end of all this is having a WBO2 sensor as well as the datalogging capability for wide band A/F's, rpms's, injector duty cycles , and boost. The innovate aux box (LMA-3) is on the way, and we will finish this all up in the next month or so to tweak that last bit out up on the top end. I'll get to a dynojet after that is done, and take some video. Tim has the 540 RWHP run on a mini dvd, hopefully he can figure out getting that one online.

Time for another hit from the old boost bong............


Jim

stuartph

Jim


Is much work need to fit the 044 pump

Jim R.

I don't think it is too bad with the right fittings. It is not just a stock bolt on replacement though. Tim is getting the fittings together for me, and I'll take some pictures when I get it set up.

Jim

IcemanG17

The 044 pump is bigger than the 045 (stock) that we have??? The few pictures I have seen they look very similar...just that the 044 draws more current to provide more flow?

I think Tony & Darien both run 044's...they should know?

BC

Jim - You may want to get a fitting and some line, as well as a -AN based fuel filter so you can circumvent the who shebang back there, with the tiny little fittings and the mahl fuel filter. I have it set up so it comes out of the tank through the screen, straight into the 044, and out the 044 into -10 lines and fuel filter, never getting smaller than that until, of course, it comes back to the tank in a -8.

Louie928

I use an 044 pump. Here is something to consider. Personally, I don't think it is a good idea to simply put in the 044 pump without giving it a good power source. I know people do it all the time, but I wonder how many have actually thought about the consequences. The stock fuel pump relay and wires back to the pump are stressed as they are. The wires are really too small and they get hot as well as drop voltage. The pump relay has to supply the power to the O2 heater as well as the pump so it's stressed and always hot after the engine is run for a while. On some cars, there is the in-tank pump to power too. Exchange the stock pump for one that needs more current, like the 044, and it makes a bad system worse. I add another relay in the spare wheel well. I operate the additional relay from the wires that usually connect to the fuel pump. Then I connect another wire to the + battery terminal where the extra terminal connectors already are. Go through a fuse or circuit breaker to the added relay contacts and on to the pump. That way the stock FP relay and wires back to the new FP relay will last forever, the O2 heater will have enough power, the pump(s) gets power direct from the battery (through the new relay contacts) and they run better with full voltage. Use minimum 16 ga wire from the new pump relay to the pump and back to the ground point in the spare wheel well near the front. If you have an Accusump, power the dump valve from the new fuel pump relay too. Then when the pump switches on for a few seconds before you start the engine, the Accusump will dump oil into the engine to act as a pre-start oiler. You can monitor the engine oil pressure gauge and see the pressure rise to check functioning of the Accusump system before you start.

BC

+1^& add in: a variable current box for the pump like aeromotive makes.

hacker-pschorr

New Dyno Sheet Posted with DynoJet STP Correction
New Numbers (DynoJet STP Correction):
594.5rwhp
532.6rwtq



This is the same dyno run as before. The dyno operator has since unlocked the DynoJet correction portion of the software, this is the result.

This is an off the shelf Murf Stage III install on a 928 GT

RyanPerrella

Ok i think i am looking in the Murf direction now, forget the TS and the Turbo, i cant ignore these numbers anymore

How much for stage 3?

hacker-pschorr

I'm close to finishing the website for Murf928.com - I'm waiting for the final numbers on the kits and maybe some other "toys" Tim would like to offer on the site. I'm hoping to have everything up very soon.

Until then, fire Mr.Murf an e-mail:

tmurphy@new.rr.com

anonymousagain

...realization that this is a DIY kit, all inclusive, with tuning via accompanied chip-set.

oops... clarification... a 700hp DIY kit, all inclusive, with tuning via accompanied chip-set.

uh, wow

[edit] does this mean auto's are no longer considered "slower" ;-)

hacker-pschorr

Just when I'm about to crack into the 450-500rwhp (if everything comes together) with my 81, these guys jump to almost 600rwhp.

I'm never going to catch them with this motor. Time to pull the cover off that lump in the corner

anonymousagain

or try that really slick fuel mixture that makes a stocker run 200mph