Snowball the 81 white 928

had gasket replaced 5 years ago. have tightened bolts a couple of times (except for that bastard just forward of the x-member on the driver's side). had oil seepage from rear of pan area near starter. tightened again and changed oil and vow to NEVER AGAIN use mobil 1 15w-50 in this car. from here on out it's castrol 20w-50 dino oil and this engine can just deal with it for all i care. these cork gaskets are just crap. why doesn't fel-pro make a felt gasket that won't compress and fall apart? also, has anyone used gasket sealer (like rear diff sealant) to coat both sides of this POS prior to installation?

btw, has anyone ever inquired about the combination cork/rubber 3/32" oil pan gaskets from ultramatic dynamics.com, 13000 mill rd, fredricksburg, va 22407-2224, 77-89 p928, $15?

also, if your looking for the cork gasket for the p/s pump reservoir lid, be advised that porsche does not list a part number and you will have to have some specially cut. i had some rubber ones done a few years ago with no adverse effect except for the cost, 5 for $50, and can provide the name of the place if anyone so desires. i think they used the lid as a template and ballparked the width and basically dragged a compass with a sharp blade around a few times.

time for the medicine cabinet. i'm a beaten man.

John Veninger

Use Yamabond (available at a Yamaha dealer) on the cork oil pan gasket.

Snowball the 81 white 928

thanks for the timely response. when the p/s rack goes, i will do so.

Snowball the 81 white 928

btw, in the event that i get ambitious (LMAO), if the p/s rack is removed without disturbing the alignment eccentrics or lower control arms, does there need to be an alignment done?

John Veninger

You will need to get the toe setting done. In theory if the rack is exactly the same length it shouldn't change the toe, but it will be sightly off.

shaaark89

snowball,
i live in fredericksburg and have spoken to that guy (he's very nice and has been making gaskets for packards i think for many years.) i have one of his gaskets though haven't used it yet. seems to be much better material than oem, kindof a rubberized cork. i'm going to use it next time i have to pull the crossmember.

Snowball the 81 white 928

excellent.

Snowball the 81 white 928

hey john, what if i reuse the original rack, would an alignment need to be done in that case? is there any slop in those mount bolts etc?

WallyP

There are three ways to remove the tie rods when you remove the rack: pull the tapered pins from the steering arms; remove the large nuts holding the inner end of the tie rods to the rack; and unscrewing the tie rods from the tie rod ends. The first two won't affect the toe, the last one will.

If you remove the universal joint connecting the steering shaft to the rack, center the wheel when you hook the jint back up. Remove the plastic screw from the rack housing directly in front of where the steering shaft goes in, find the dimple in the rack, and center it in the hole. This centers the rack - put the wheel on straight. If the steering wheel is crooked when you run down the road, the tie rods are misadjusted.

I would strongly suggest that you put new rack mount bushings in if you pull the rack.

Snowball the 81 white 928

i would definitely get the centering tool. are you sure no effect on alignment for R&R of rack with new mount bushings, disconnected at steering arm? even the lower control arms have some slop in them at the front until tightened down.

WallyP

The only way that you would affect the alignment by changing rack bushings would be to move the rack up or down an inch or two - which won't happen.

If the rack should end up an eighth of an inch higher, lower, or to one side there will be no perceptible change in the alignment. Worst that might happen would be that the steering wheel might be in a VERY slightly different position, which makes no difference.

All that will happen will be that you will remove the side-to-side slop in the bushings, which will make the steering more responsive.

Snowball the 81 white 928

thanks, you're up to an entire bottle of single-malt now.

Roland Kunz

Hello

You also can use Hylomar ( Can be bought at Mercedes, BMW, Rolls Royce ) or Loctite Black Tide.

Use some VW Distance washers on the bolts so you can´t overtourque the cork seal ( it even can slip out sideways ).

If the cork gets the right oil it will be selfsealing but modern Oils tend to slip trough and even corrode the cork.

Grüsse

Snowball the 81 white 928

i am familiar with hylomar (blue) but i have noticed that it remains somewhat soft even days after application. i have used it with great success to seal coolant leak at one of four bolts of coolant housing, as well as on flat surfaces of tranny line housing on radiator. overall, this is good s$%^.

thanks roland.

Mike Schmidt

What are VW Distance washers? Some sort of sleeve that you put over the bolts maybe?