Any ideas
#1
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on what to look for regarding failed emissions. Everything passed except CO %. the limit here in VA. is 0.86. my reading was 1.31.
I once changed the oil on a car that failed and it passed. This car (Peaugot) had alot of unburnt fuel in the oil. This really raised hell with the emissions. However, I had the oil changed right then and there and it lowered the numbers enough to pass. For how long I dont know. All I know is it passed.
It's been a little over 3000 miles since my last oil change. Does anyone out there think this will lower the numbers enough to pass emissions (based on the numbers above)or is this a typical O2 sensor thing?
I for one would like to avoid replacing the O2 sensor at this time.
I once changed the oil on a car that failed and it passed. This car (Peaugot) had alot of unburnt fuel in the oil. This really raised hell with the emissions. However, I had the oil changed right then and there and it lowered the numbers enough to pass. For how long I dont know. All I know is it passed.
It's been a little over 3000 miles since my last oil change. Does anyone out there think this will lower the numbers enough to pass emissions (based on the numbers above)or is this a typical O2 sensor thing?
I for one would like to avoid replacing the O2 sensor at this time.
#2
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You can try to lower the idle Co by running the idle mixture screw out at the air flow meter. This allows more air to bypass the meter door and get into the engine. I'm assuming your car is the same as my 1981.....but it may not be.
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Also....make sure the O2 sensor is plugged it, this can make all the difference in the world......you can buy a cheap sensor to replace yours....I'm assuming it is a 3 wire, so check around for a local supplier of generic sensors. Not something you want to buy at the dealer at all.
#4
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Thanks John, Is the O2 sensor easy to locate? I have most of my work done profesionally. I live in a Highrise building and park under ground. My work area is almost non existant. Work I do is limited to easy swaps.
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"Thanks John, Is the O2 sensor easy to locate? "
On my 84S, the O2 sensor wire is a thick gauge green (single conductor) wire to the left of the fuse panel in the passnger footwell (the wire connects to the sensor through a hole in the tunnel). There is a large barrel-type in-line connector (with a rubber boot). This is the logical place where it would be disconnected, but you might also check the actual sensor, which is screwed into the top front of your catalytic converter, to make sure the wire leading to it is not broken.
On my 84S, the O2 sensor wire is a thick gauge green (single conductor) wire to the left of the fuse panel in the passnger footwell (the wire connects to the sensor through a hole in the tunnel). There is a large barrel-type in-line connector (with a rubber boot). This is the logical place where it would be disconnected, but you might also check the actual sensor, which is screwed into the top front of your catalytic converter, to make sure the wire leading to it is not broken.
#6
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Thanks DG84S, I found it and confirmed that it was connected. I guess the next step would be to replace the sensor itself. I was reading here somewhere that they should be replaced every 30K. I don't know if that was ever done?
I priced one at 928 International for $199.00. They also had what they called a "universal O2 sensor" for $60.00. Is this a "generic" brand?
If so; that's good enough for me. Can one be found at a local parts store (without having to adapt it)?
How about installation of one of these. What's involved?
I priced one at 928 International for $199.00. They also had what they called a "universal O2 sensor" for $60.00. Is this a "generic" brand?
If so; that's good enough for me. Can one be found at a local parts store (without having to adapt it)?
How about installation of one of these. What's involved?
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#9
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I don't think it's a fuel injector. I had about 4000 miles on that batch of oil. My guess is that all cars accumulate a little fuel in their oil after so many miles.
I barely past emmisions. Passing was .86 my readings were .82 (CO %). I failed with 1.32.
Knock on wood; the car runs perfect. I did go on a 500 mile road trip (and a container of Techron) between emmisions (and oil change).
Hell, I'm just glad it worked! <img src="graemlins/bigok.gif" border="0" alt="[thumbsup]" />
I barely past emmisions. Passing was .86 my readings were .82 (CO %). I failed with 1.32.
Knock on wood; the car runs perfect. I did go on a 500 mile road trip (and a container of Techron) between emmisions (and oil change).
Hell, I'm just glad it worked! <img src="graemlins/bigok.gif" border="0" alt="[thumbsup]" />
#10
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Bosch MAF usually have a screw adjuster for base CO - certainly the LH units do, cant remeber the L unit. There is a tamper proof plug (~10-12mm alloy) on the MAF - drill a hole, screw in a self-tapper, pull it out. Put a meter across two leads (1st and last on my LR, check 928 book) ign on, not running. Note Volts, screw in to reduce V and CO. I think 3/16" or 5mm hex key. LR range is 1.5-1.9V. Unit is a little harder to get at on 928 than LRT is the only problem.
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