My Flexplate - Crank Endplay Check Pictorial
#106
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Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: New Berlin, WI
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Regarding surface finish of the thrust face - Jaguar 6 cyl. are reported to have thrust surface issues when overly stiff racing clutches are used. The fix is first don't use a pressure plate with too much spring pressure, secondly they make a huge deal out of making the thrust face super smooth and 90 degrees and state you must have a machinist who can do this. Maybe not relavant on 928's as when you get thrust failure you can't rebuild (usually) anyway.
#107
Drifting
Dial Indicator Tool Holder
I want to make some crank end play measurements and couldn't get anything repeatable using micrometers.
I have a dial indicator which I haven't used for any more than checking tread depth.
What is the tool call that allows you to mount the dial indicator with full 3D adjustment as seen here?
I'd like to have one of these.
I have a dial indicator which I haven't used for any more than checking tread depth.
What is the tool call that allows you to mount the dial indicator with full 3D adjustment as seen here?
I'd like to have one of these.
#108
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Dial Indicator Magnetic Base - Harbor Freight for about $25.
__________________
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission? George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission? George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
#109
Drifting
Thanks Roger, found it for only $10.
I can almost see Harbor Freight from my office... it's literally that close.
http://www.harborfreight.com/hand-to...ment-5645.html
I can almost see Harbor Freight from my office... it's literally that close.
http://www.harborfreight.com/hand-to...ment-5645.html
#111
Addict
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Luck would have it that the rod that screws into the magnetic base fits exactly into the bolt holes for the bell housing cover, at least in the base that I bought on Ebay. I do have an X-pipe, so I'm not sure of there's enough clearance with an normal exhaust.
#113
Team Owner
I think that original DIY post from both Mr Harkin and Mr Ball should also be updated for those dont read this whole thread. to include..
FWIW if you dont check the rear pinch bolt then you have not completed this inspection/repair.
Most of the cars I have checked have loose rear pinch bolts,
so its safe to assume that these rear pinch bolts have never been retorqued.
If the rear bolt is loose then this can cause the drive shaft to migrate and preload the thrust bearing,
so just releasing the front flexplate isnt a cure for this issue.
This to make sure that the rear pinch bolt is also removed and inspected then installed.
NOTE the other issues with a loose rear bolt is that the shaft can migrate so far forward that the rear bolt will begin chafing on the side of the shaft cutout,
thus damaging the bolt shank and weakening it,
NOTE if a bolt is found with this damage then it should be replaced and the shaft moved rearwards before the new bolt is fitted.
NOTE torque to 66 ft/lb add a drop of blue loctite to the bolt threads
FWIW if you dont check the rear pinch bolt then you have not completed this inspection/repair.
Most of the cars I have checked have loose rear pinch bolts,
so its safe to assume that these rear pinch bolts have never been retorqued.
If the rear bolt is loose then this can cause the drive shaft to migrate and preload the thrust bearing,
so just releasing the front flexplate isnt a cure for this issue.
This to make sure that the rear pinch bolt is also removed and inspected then installed.
NOTE the other issues with a loose rear bolt is that the shaft can migrate so far forward that the rear bolt will begin chafing on the side of the shaft cutout,
thus damaging the bolt shank and weakening it,
NOTE if a bolt is found with this damage then it should be replaced and the shaft moved rearwards before the new bolt is fitted.
NOTE torque to 66 ft/lb add a drop of blue loctite to the bolt threads
#114
Rennlist Member
I followed Bill's procedure and I was in tolerance.
Flexplate preload released: 2 mm (6.65mm) before & (4.65mm) after.
Crank endplay: 0.006 in (0.15mm) .
I was really smiling because the PO don't check it. However he always ran Hi zinc content in his oil 1600 ppm. 15W50 oil for a long time. I'm waiting on the Ritech Clamp from Roger.
Flexplate preload released: 2 mm (6.65mm) before & (4.65mm) after.
Crank endplay: 0.006 in (0.15mm) .
I was really smiling because the PO don't check it. However he always ran Hi zinc content in his oil 1600 ppm. 15W50 oil for a long time. I'm waiting on the Ritech Clamp from Roger.
#115
Team Owner
Frugal was the rear pinch bolt loose?
To tell set the torque wrench to 66 ft/lbs and loosen it see how much force is used to remove the bolt.
Then verify the shaft is centered in the input shaft of the transaxle.
To tell set the torque wrench to 66 ft/lbs and loosen it see how much force is used to remove the bolt.
Then verify the shaft is centered in the input shaft of the transaxle.
#116
When checking mine, I set the wrench to 66 lb-ft and tried to tighten. It started to move, so I knew it was not up to torque. Then I removed and examined (centered and no marks) and reinstalled/torqued. This is after 128K miles, as I'm sure this was never checked in the past.
It may be self evident, but the heat shields just need to be swung out of the way, not removed entirely.
It may be self evident, but the heat shields just need to be swung out of the way, not removed entirely.
Last edited by Geza; 03-23-2019 at 12:12 PM.
#118
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#119
#120
Nordschleife Master