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My Flexplate - Crank Endplay Check Pictorial

 
Old 05-16-2009, 10:11 AM
  #106  
Larry Velk
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Regarding surface finish of the thrust face - Jaguar 6 cyl. are reported to have thrust surface issues when overly stiff racing clutches are used. The fix is first don't use a pressure plate with too much spring pressure, secondly they make a huge deal out of making the thrust face super smooth and 90 degrees and state you must have a machinist who can do this. Maybe not relavant on 928's as when you get thrust failure you can't rebuild (usually) anyway.
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Old 05-07-2010, 09:30 AM
  #107  
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Default Dial Indicator Tool Holder

I want to make some crank end play measurements and couldn't get anything repeatable using micrometers.

I have a dial indicator which I haven't used for any more than checking tread depth.
What is the tool call that allows you to mount the dial indicator with full 3D adjustment as seen here?

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I'd like to have one of these.

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Old 05-07-2010, 09:51 AM
  #108  
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Dial Indicator Magnetic Base - Harbor Freight for about $25.
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Old 05-07-2010, 09:59 AM
  #109  
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Thanks Roger, found it for only $10.

I can almost see Harbor Freight from my office... it's literally that close.

http://www.harborfreight.com/hand-to...ment-5645.html
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Old 05-07-2010, 10:18 AM
  #110  
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Originally Posted by ROG100 View Post
Dial Indicator Magnetic Base - Harbor Freight for about $25.
I never could get a mag base to work there, not solid enough.

The VW tool (Base) for setting the cams works very well.
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Old 05-07-2010, 02:01 PM
  #111  
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Originally Posted by blown 87 View Post
I never could get a mag base to work there, not solid enough.
Luck would have it that the rod that screws into the magnetic base fits exactly into the bolt holes for the bell housing cover, at least in the base that I bought on Ebay. I do have an X-pipe, so I'm not sure of there's enough clearance with an normal exhaust.
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Old 05-07-2010, 02:06 PM
  #112  
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Originally Posted by Aryan View Post
Luck would have it that the rod that screws into the magnetic base fits exactly into the bolt holes for the bell housing cover, at least in the base that I bought on Ebay. I do have an X-pipe, so I'm not sure of there's enough clearance with an normal exhaust.
That would work out well.
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Old 10-13-2013, 09:08 AM
  #113  
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I think that original DIY post from both Mr Harkin and Mr Ball should also be updated for those dont read this whole thread. to include..

FWIW if you dont check the rear pinch bolt then you have not completed this inspection/repair.

Most of the cars I have checked have loose rear pinch bolts,
so its safe to assume that these rear pinch bolts have never been retorqued.

If the rear bolt is loose then this can cause the drive shaft to migrate and preload the thrust bearing,
so just releasing the front flexplate isnt a cure for this issue.

This to make sure that the rear pinch bolt is also removed and inspected then installed.


NOTE the other issues with a loose rear bolt is that the shaft can migrate so far forward that the rear bolt will begin chafing on the side of the shaft cutout,
thus damaging the bolt shank and weakening it,

NOTE if a bolt is found with this damage then it should be replaced and the shaft moved rearwards before the new bolt is fitted.

NOTE torque to 66 ft/lb add a drop of blue loctite to the bolt threads
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Old 03-22-2019, 11:12 PM
  #114  
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I followed Bill's procedure and I was in tolerance.
Flexplate preload released: 2 mm (6.65mm) before & (4.65mm) after.
Crank endplay: 0.006 in (0.15mm) .
I was really smiling because the PO don't check it. However he always ran Hi zinc content in his oil 1600 ppm. 15W50 oil for a long time. I'm waiting on the Ritech Clamp from Roger.
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Old 03-23-2019, 12:06 AM
  #115  
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Frugal was the rear pinch bolt loose?
To tell set the torque wrench to 66 ft/lbs and loosen it see how much force is used to remove the bolt.
Then verify the shaft is centered in the input shaft of the transaxle.
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Old 03-23-2019, 08:38 AM
  #116  
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When checking mine, I set the wrench to 66 lb-ft and tried to tighten. It started to move, so I knew it was not up to torque. Then I removed and examined (centered and no marks) and reinstalled/torqued. This is after 128K miles, as I'm sure this was never checked in the past.

It may be self evident, but the heat shields just need to be swung out of the way, not removed entirely.

Last edited by Geza; 03-23-2019 at 12:12 PM.
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Old 03-23-2019, 08:40 AM
  #117  
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What are the signs of TBF?
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Old 03-23-2019, 10:20 AM
  #118  
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Originally Posted by awilli6 View Post
What are the signs of TBF?
Excessive crank end float, metal particles in the oil and can also include a seized crank. The owner usually has no clue that something is amiss until something drastic like seizure occurs.
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Old 03-23-2019, 04:03 PM
  #119  
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Originally Posted by awilli6 View Post
What are the signs of TBF?
What Fred said and:

Hard start or no start after engine is run up to temperature and then turned off.

Deep knocking sounds from the engine when idling.

Oil pressure fluctuations when driving.



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Old 03-25-2019, 02:08 PM
  #120  
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Originally Posted by awilli6 View Post
What are the signs of TBF?
Tears.
Anguished screams.
Rending of garments.
Emptying of wallet.

The problem is that there's virtually no symptoms until it's too late.
Which is why checking the flex plate on a regular basis is essential.
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