Hey everyone, I would like to replace the seals around both the drivers side and passenger side windows. Specifically the uppers and the outer and inner slot seals. I was looking around for them and saw that 928 international wants around 110 bucks for one seal. Your not gonna tell me that its going to cost 600 to 800 bucks just to seal two windows are you. A 110 seems a little overpriced even for a Porsche.

Anyone out there know of any cheaper??

 

Nope...wish someone would be enterprising enough to present a set to someplace like SureSeal (or the likes) and see if they'd start making them.

 

Attempting to replace those seals is a good reason to practice all the swearwords you know...

Been there, paid the price, and lived through the pain of putting them in.

But it's still better than the alternative (cracked or torn seals)

 

Sorry to tell you, but in Oz, they are A$110 ~US$60. Check the price of the felt channel around the top - $150US!!
Nicole, the outers arent that hard to do are they?

Curt, check the archives for how to do the outer - I got help there, and it went well. Lubrication is important.
jp

 

The hard part is getting the little rubber tongues into the groves in the black trim pieces. If you find an easy way to do this, let us all know. Otherwise plan for some time. And you have my permission to use the swearwords, if it helps you...

 

The rolling angled screwdriver handle did it fine for me.
Get a screwdriver with a handle diameter of about 0.5 - 0.75", or any similar sized round smooth cylinder, about 8" long or more. Screwdriver is easy to viusalize.. we are doing the right hand door outer seal - the black metal base has its groove lubricated with detergent or soapy water, or Amourall etc), stand at the rear of the door. Place the rubber over the metal groove, put ONE of the 'ears' into upper side of the receiving groove towards the rear of the door, and hold in place. Hold the 'driver' by the blade in the right hand vertically, then twist your wrist anticlock in vertical plane, so it now lies on top of the rubber; rock your wrist backwards, so the driver handle now points back, but still sits on the rubber (with door closed, think of handle now pointing at left rear roof lining instead of straight across at LH door). Press down on rubber with a rolling/sliding motion, back and forth checking for the other ear going into its groove. Once it is started, its qucik and easy. Then slide the rubber along the groove back so the kick up meets the top seal, and the front should then match at the other end.
Easy.
jp

 

Thanks everyone for all the replies. Yikes, $150 bucks seems outragous for that upper seal, but I need it so that my girlfriend doesnt get wet when it rains. Oh wait one second, it never rains in Ventura. Looks like I wont be replacing that seal afterall

I still need to take apart the door so that I can fix my window that is getting ready to fall out. Must be the guides that I hear so much about. We will see.

Thanks everyone..

 

Hey Curt,

I know your pain. I need to do mine too but quickly decided to live with it when I saw the price. I've got much more important things to spend my cash on right now (tires, wheels, suspension, engine,.......).

I'm from Ventura too, you're right about no rain, but those drive through car washes will really get you. Sometimes I throw the kids in the back and they don't appreciate the humor when the hatch leaks on them.

My car is so quiet and nice to drive, except for this little whistle around the drivers window...

 

Hey Chris, where at in Ventura?? I live near Channel Islands Harbor.

My rear hatch leaks a bit at the passenger side hinge bracket. (or near that area) I thought I had it fixed but it still leaks a bit.

The upper window seal is my main problem. Apparently the glass has been misaligned for some time and it has kinda smashed the upper rear corner of the seal so that water can freely move inside the cabin. Your right about the car wash thing. But then again I dont sit on that side, my girlfriend does. <img src="graemlins/wave.gif" border="0" alt="[byebye]" />

 

Check Vertex.... They have the lowest pricing on seals I've seen.

I just had my '81 painted and replaced every seal on the car I could find...... except the door seal.

If yours are cracked or broken, it is worth the effort to change them.

The trick I used was to lube the aluminum guide and rubber with glass cleaner and worked quickly.

They are a pain to do, but not as hard as installing rear quarter trim in new window seals.

Enjoy,
Scott

 

Hi Scott,

I will be reinstalling the right rear side window soon. Thanks go to Snowy for providing a good procedure. Another one is on the Nichols site. See: <a href="http://forums.rennlist.com/cgi-bin/rennforums/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=14&t=002257&p=" target="_blank">http://forums.rennlist.com/cgi-bin/rennforums/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=14&t=0 02257&p=</a>

Here is what I plan to do now:
1. Put sealer in corner of window frame.
2. Should I put silicon or teflon lubricant around edges of the frame, too???
3. Use a slick cord around/inside inner-most groove of the seal. (Is slick better than a medium frictional coefficient, such as with cotton cord?)
4. Place fully assembled window, trim, and seal in place. Start by hooking the highest corner onto window frame.
5. Push window in from the outside, while assistant pulls on cord to roll the seal in over the edge of the window frame.
6. Use a plastic knife to smooth out any kinks in the seal orientation.
7. Clean off excess adhesive.

I hope that I understand the process. But, I can always use more advice on something like this. I am concerned about scratching new paint, getting a good seal, interference of lubricant with adhesive’s adhesion, and good solvents for cleaning the old seal.

Any answers or tips would be appreciated from anyone.
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Scott, thanks for the help. Who and where can I find these Vertex people. They are not on the net that I can find. Maybe in Texas somewhere?

 

vertexauto.com
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Thom,

Your procedure is right on the money. I used a cotton rope with diameter between 1/8" and 1/4". I would opt for the higher friction rope as it will pull the rubber past the window lip much better. And... Make sure your helper applies pressure from the outside.

Most importantly, install the external aluminum window trim in the seal and install as a unit. I had to remove one window after thinking I could install the trim once the glass was in....... WRONG.

As for Vertex...... Caveat Emptor. I have heard mixed revies about them. Make sure the deal is clearly defined before buying.

Good Luck,
Scott

 

Hi Scott,

Thanks for the help. Wish me luck. Have a good weekend.
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