RyanPerrella

very easy

You tension the belt so that the sprockets dont move. You then loosen the bolt holding the sprockets to the cams and adjust the cams relative to the sprocket, thus altering the valve timing. It looks like you can go maybe 10-15 crank degrees either way.

Once i got how it worked it was really easy to make adjustments. I did this with the valve covers off as the engine is on the stand, rotating the cams would i imagine be more difficult using the 32 MM washer.

All in all a very good tool, i have every confidence in the valve timing of the engine now thanks to Ken.

Louie928

I have it all figured out in my head. Does that count? Well, almost figured out. Actually, I have thought about it. Some.... I've got this other idea too. A simple device that turns a semi auto rifle into a 5 (or more) shot burst simulated full auto. All BATF legal. Unusual for me to consider that aspect. I must be getting old. Not too hard to make. I can't wait to try it. However, other projects await.

Lizard928

Ken, I am interested in going to electronic waterpump as well, however the only one I can really find is the Davies Craig units, and we would have to get them in from Aus, I see Siemens has one on their website, but doesnt list specs, or distributors.

PorKen

It's about as easy as doing a timing belt tension check. The 'devices' are not permantly installed - they mount in place of the distributor rotors. There's a spacer to use the cam bolt to adjust the cams without removing the covers, if need be.



Colin,

I've thought about the Davies Craig EWP 110 L/M unit but I think you'd need the digital controller, and replace the thermostat with a plug.

There is a US distributor - (EWP distributors)

PorKen

Louie,

Just use explosive rounds!
...

I would like to have a static variable valve timing device, if only installed for dyno testing, to make it faster to find the sweet spot for different driving conditions. It takes 1.5-2 hours to disassemble, check, and adjust both sides, on my '86.

I'm thinking now that a dynamic VVT might be best set to: advance/low-rpm-torque, zero/high-rpm-power, and retard/cruise. The retard used to reduce pumping losses at high rpm, low load = high vacuum?

Louie928

I've got some tracer rounds. No explosive rounds. I can't (shouldn't) use the tracers in the summer here due to fire danger.

Your 3 position cam setting is a good idea. I think going too far retard for lower pumping loss at cruise will have a limit due to reversion out the MAF which will cause a too rich condition. As bad as it sounds, EGR is good for better fuel economy. The cylinder is partially filled with inert gas so less pumping loss. That causes higher manifold pressure to generate equivalent power than without EGR. Instead of changing cam timing with the belt, how about a rotationally variable hub on the drive sprocket(s)? Have a helical spline sleeve between the sprocket and the cam. Move the sleeve in/out to change the angular relationship between the outer part of the sprocket and the cam.

Lizard928

Ken, thanks for the link, I agree with having to block off the thermostat and having the controller, and I wouldnt go with the 80 I would do the 110

ps talking standard correct your torque figure was right but the hp was 296.5