BrianG

Or have someone activate the release while you listen at the hatch........ you can hear that mechanism cycle. I think it makes 3 passes.

Drewster67

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by SNAG84Sa:
<strong>My hatch release works both from inside and outside w/key. My problem is that the locking lever gets stuck in the open position. I have to use the key and turn it to lock with the hatch up and then close it shut.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Penetrating Fluid - I reccomend PB Penetrating Catalyst. Not only does it free locked bolts/mechansims, but it's also a rust deterant and lubricant. This stuff is like gold.

SharkFan

Hey Drew,

Is this stuff available at the regular local parts house's?

Erik - Denmark

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by Ted928:
<strong>I had the same problem years ago. I tried replacing the plastic piece but it did not help. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Ted,
I also tried to replace the moving pawl (from my donor car) but the result was the same - It seams that this pawl is designed to be too small - But the three plastic straps works for years, and when one day not working any more, it's easy and cheap to renew

SteveG

Erik: It sounds llike you may have solved a very troublesome problem for several of us. I want to try your solution, but am not able to visualize the "pawl" and putting straps around anything in the mechanism that would have this effect. Also, "straps"? could you give dimensions of straps. would zip ties work? That is if I can figure out what it is you are putting the straps around?? Sorry to be so dense. Thanks.

Erik - Denmark

Steve,
Not easy to explain, but I will 'do my best'
When you get started with 'the project' you will recognise that's not so complicated as it sound

How the lock works:
The hatch lock has an upper and a lower parts - The upper part is mounted in the hatch and the lower part in the chassis.
The upper unit has a spring loaded pawl (The looking pawl) When you turn the key this move the pawl and the hatch open.
The lower parts has a spring loaded pushing unit - the white round unit you see when looking down
From the 1984 models there is also a pawl in front of the pushing unit - this is actuated of the motor - To understand this, open the hatch and look when another one pulls the actuating switch, and you will see this pawl is moving-in
This motor actuated pawl push the spring loaded pawl in the upper unit and release the lock, and then the pushing unit lift the hatch approximately 1".

How to understand it:
Remove the push rod from the motor and discount the lower unit (2 hexagon bolts)
Remove the upper parts (2 hexagon bolts)
Now you have both units in your hand, and you can 'play' with it - Connect them and release them (1. Use the key 2. Use the connecting rod)
Now you will see that the motor actuated pawl of one or another reason, is too slim to release the pawl in the upper part

How to fix it:
Place 3 small plastic straps around the motor actuated pawl (make it more fat)
With plastic strips I mean this small handy plastic straps you are using for fixing wires around in the car - You can get them in all DIY car parts store (With small I mean about 10 cm (4") long)

See also section 55 in the Shop Manual # V - The instruction here is not complete, but will help

<img border="0" alt="[typing]" title="" src="graemlins/yltype.gif" />

Drewster67

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by SharkFan:
<strong>Hey Drew,

Is this stuff available at the regular local parts house's?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">I bought my can at AutoZone. I suspect Checkers, PepBoys, Walmart or any other type store may it in stock.

BrianG

At the end of the day, after replacing that made-of-gold hatch-side latch striker part, and dicking around with the mounting adjustments, I came to the conclusion that the electro-release mechanism is designed to too close a tollerance, thus requiring intricate adjustment. A simple modification to the mechansim rectifies this situation.

Let me digress.... the white nylon locking pawl in the striker catches a cut-out in the receiver. The key in the latch pulls this pawl, releasing it from the receiver cut-out. That part is good.

The electro-release activates a cycling "flap", that is part of the receiver, which pushes the pawl back toward the striker, hopefully far enough to disengage it from the cut-out in the receiver.

IMHO this "flap" is FAR too small (short) and unless extremely finely fitted, it doesn't push the pawl far enough to disengage it from the cut-out. Shimming the receiver to push the striker forward is the right relationship change, but adding to the "depth of push" of that "flap" eliminates the need for all that dicking around with adjustment and shims.

Simple, effective, and no more troubles!

SharkFan

Hey Brian,

It would be great if you added pictures and the procedure to the DIY site. Hint..Hint
<img border="0" alt="[hiha]" title="" src="graemlins/roflmao.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[hiha]" title="" src="graemlins/roflmao.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[hiha]" title="" src="graemlins/roflmao.gif" />

BrianG

Now why did I know that THAT was coming!! <img border="0" alt="[typing]" title="" src="graemlins/yltype.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[blabla]" title="" src="graemlins/a_smil17.gif" />

groppo

Same problem, cracked upper latch mechanism. Reading other replies, this seems a widespead problem. I can't understand how they can manufacturer the casing in zinc cast in the first place, considering the pressure it comes under. Mine cracked all over, on the fixing flange and
centre lock housing. It finally fell off, onto my head.
I've sourced used ones, but they are cracked aswell.
And herein perhaps lies a solution. I'm in the casting field. If there is enough interest I will cast a latch body, made from brass, and finished in original colour. Let me know of your interest.

SteveG

I'm in. Say $10.00 + shipping ea.? Just a WAG as to how much time and materials you might have in this. There must be dozens or is that hundreds that need this part.

parrothead

To be honest I've never looked for it/given it a second thought but was an interior release standard on all 928s? I haven't seen one on my 81..
I miss my heated garage from when I lived in Texas, otherwise I'd be working on the car now.
- Eric

SteveG

Parrothead: on the flat panel that contains your emerg. brake, there should be 2 *****. one has a speaker embossed (this a fader), the other is usu blank. Pulling up on it with driver's door open should release the hatch unless of course you suffer from the infection which is the reason for this thread, that being the case, you will hear a funny grinding noise in the rear which is the hatch release motor cycling, but not opening. Only one **** at same position on passenger side, no fader there. YMMV.

jpitman2

I was just in here yesterday (83, no remote release, but I have the receiver for remote), and found some interetsing stuff. The latching pawl was stiff in mid travel using the key, and by hand. I opened it up and found the long arm the the key moves TO release the latch was binding on the side of the key body cylinder quite badly. I took my dremel to it and ground some off, now its nice and smooth. Since I have only the remote release latch, and none of the electrical parts, anybody know if it could be made cable operated? My top latch part is also cracked on one side!!!
jp 83 Euro S AT 47k